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Old 11-29-2015, 07:55 PM   #21
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I find it interesting the things I have never thought about. Never having had an electric windlass I have not had switches to deal with. Let the rode go the anchor thing sinks.
Pull on the rode hard enough and the anchor raises. Now, I pull the hydraulic lever up and the anchor goes up. I push the lever down the anchor goes down.
If I did have to do switches I think big arrows (so old guys like me don't have to fish around for our glasses) pointing fore and aft would be pretty self explanatory other arrangements like the one Marin has would probably be one of those well "duh" moments after I stepped on the wrong one the first time.
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Old 11-29-2015, 07:59 PM   #22
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While having anchor controls both in the pilothouse as well at the windlass, I always operate at the windlass, particularly when retrieving the anchor, so to pull off any weeds wrapped on the chain as well as to flush off the inevitable SF estuarian mud.

Am not too concerned with the pedals. If the chain is going in the wrong direction, I switch pedals.
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Old 11-30-2015, 12:25 PM   #23
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If the switches were oriented fore and aft, the arrows would more clearly indicate the chain direction. I think we tend to read too much into it when they are placed side by side.
Perhaps, but they are side by side so it's easier to step on one without stepping on the other.

I would think the arrows point the way the anchor is going (up or down), but that's just me. It's your boat so they can be any way that suits you.
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Old 11-30-2015, 12:58 PM   #24
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While having anchor controls both in the pilothouse as well at the windlass, I always operate at the windlass, particularly when retrieving the anchor, so to pull off any weeds wrapped on the chain as well as to flush off the inevitable SF estuarian mud.

Am not too concerned with the pedals. If the chain is going in the wrong direction, I switch pedals.
You have been hiding that PhD in chain movement....

Possibly a minor in "perfect anchors" ?
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Old 11-30-2015, 01:35 PM   #25
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Put a label on the inside of each cover using the words up and down.
This seems to be a great suggestion. There will not be any wear on the labels from stepping on them and they will be easily visible when the covers are flipped open.
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Old 11-30-2015, 09:26 PM   #26
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Within a fraction of a second one can tell he has used the wrong switch. It's not a big deal.
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Old 11-30-2015, 09:51 PM   #27
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Within a fraction of a second one can tell he has used the wrong switch. It's not a big deal.
Don't go slinging logic and commom sense around on an internet forum, Mark. It will land you in a world of controversy somewhere in the middle of the resulting thousand post thread.
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:48 AM   #28
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I have a bootleg Pink Floyd album (remember those?) somewhere and it's labeled "inside" and "outside"......

Oh, the anchor winch, yes...... chain direction of course.
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Old 12-01-2015, 11:22 AM   #29
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Use remote windless switches

One of the best upgrades I ever did on my boat was to put a remote windless switch at both pilot stations. On my deck I only have an up switch. Anchoring is so much easier when your at the pilot controls and windless controls at the same time.

I think it only cost about $500 all in.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:20 PM   #30
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I agree with Mr. Coot "fraction of second" which has been my experience. I installed my foot switches side by side, no labels. Ideal must design a safety factor into the switches as it takes a lot of pressure in the right spot to energize them.
I noted your pulpit is solid, mine has an open area filled with a teak grate aft of the rollers, another example of "when you've seen one Manatee" !
Roger the tunnel will get shorter, mine took three years to get thru.
Nice job on the pulpit and windlass.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:38 PM   #31
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As HiDHo has reminded me, One of my foot switches failed. As it was the up, and I was far from a chandlery, I rewired so the down became the up until I could replace the switch. The chandlery only had one in stock. It was marked "DN", as was the up now in use. No problem.
By this time the FB switch was now running backwards: push was pull and pull was push. No problem after the first 1/2 second.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:47 PM   #32
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Tangential, but what is the advantage of "power out" over "freefall"? Matching paying out with reverse boat movement is good, but I`d say the sooner the anchor gets to the seafloor the better. Having only had freefall,I`ve no experiences to compare, so I`m interested in yours.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:50 PM   #33
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In shallow water and confined area, it is nice to be able to power down from the helm while maneuvering the boat.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:52 PM   #34
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Hard to do freefall without going to the windlass and releasing the gypsy brake. Power down can be done from the FB.
ALso, knowing how much is out is easy with power down, esp if your windlass, like mine, does 1 ft/second. with freefall, depends on how you have marked the chain, and on watching for the marks.
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:01 PM   #35
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Tangential, but what is the advantage of "power out" over "freefall"?
Good question. The original windlass to our boat was power-in only. We never let the anchor literally free-fall to the bottom because we'd observed problems with this on other boats, notably the potential for the rapidly deploying chain to jerk and bounce itself out of the wildcat to say nothing of the potential for an overrun when the anchor landed on the bottom or a violent shock if the chain in the locker became tangled or knotted and suddenly ceased to feed to the windlass. So we always controlled the "free" drop of the anchor with the handbrake on the windlass.

The advantage of power-out is that you can achieve this same degree of control without having to manually manipulate the brakewheel. This would be particularly advantageous if one operates a windlass remotely form a helm station. We don't operate our Lofrans Tigres remotely because there is useful information during setting that we can get only by observing and sometimes feeling by hand the behavior of the rode as we're backing away from the anchor. We can't see or feel the rode in the water from either of the helm stations.

But that's just our preference. A lot of boaters, particularly single-handers, like to deploy the anchor from a helm station so they can operate the boat at the same time. A power-out deploy gives them the opportunity of having better control over the process.
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:30 PM   #36
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Where did you get those labels? I don't have any on my switches, but they look really nice.
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:31 PM   #37
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Interesting. Without power out or helm control or a counter, someone has to "man" the release at the bow,which I think preferable anyway. We have the chain marked so it goes out no faster than can be counted (no slower either), we`ve not had a chain issue lowering, though we have while retrieving, due to a powerful recent replacement motor. Having repowered the Muir windlass I`ll be keeping it, but I appreciate the explanations. We rarely anchor in anything under 25ft deep, often it`s more. With all chain I miss the signal the anchor has hit bottom, line coiling on the surface.
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:50 PM   #38
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Anchor free fall?

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Old 12-01-2015, 10:49 PM   #39
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A bit like that, without smoke not even Lucas could produce, rate of fall variations, frantic lever applications, and (usually) recriminations.
Moral: the bitter end of the rode should always be secured to the boat.
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Old 12-01-2015, 10:49 PM   #40
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Interesting. Without power out or helm control or a counter, someone has to "man" the release at the bow,which I think preferable anyway.
Our Lofrans Tigres has power-deploy and retrieve but we still operate the windlass at the windlass. The two foot switches are mounted beside the big teak pedestal the windlass sits on. We use wire ties to mark the chain every ten feet. No remote controls or chain counter.
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