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Old 07-17-2016, 12:31 PM   #61
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City: Vancouver Rowing Club, Coal Harbour, Vancouver, B.C.
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When I first got my boat all I had was an up switch on the deck by the windless. I installed remotes by both pilot stations, cost about $500 6 years ago. It was the best thing I ever did. It makes single handing much easier when anchoring. The only problem is seeing those markers on the anchor chain for depth. What I use are coloured zap straps every 25 feet. A major marker more easily seen is at 100 ft.
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Old 07-17-2016, 03:30 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by grahamdouglass View Post
When I first got my boat all I had was an up switch on the deck by the windless. I installed remotes by both pilot stations, cost about $500 6 years ago. It was the best thing I ever did. It makes single handing much easier when anchoring. The only problem is seeing those markers on the anchor chain for depth. What I use are coloured zap straps every 25 feet. A major marker more easily seen is at 100 ft.
The PO of my boat had colored pieces of line for chain markers. They work well, just hard to see. The paint I used a couple weeks ago is much easier to see.
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Old 07-17-2016, 03:48 PM   #63
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City: California Delta and SF Bay
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A couple of weeks ago I wove a length of 3/8 line into my chain at 60 ft as a prominent marker and 10 ft as a warning track on retrieval. I left my zip ties every 30 ft to 90 ft (1 at 30, 2 at 60, 3 at 90). I found the line was difficult to see when retrieved as it seemed to take on the color of the mud.

Yesterday I bought some Rustoleum flourescent neon yellow to augment the 60 and 10 ft marks. I'll apply it over the coming weeks and report back on its effectiveness.

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Old 09-03-2016, 01:05 PM   #64
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City: Houma, Louisiana
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Originally Posted by CaptTom View Post
I bought a wireless winch remote, marketed toward use on off-road vehicles, from Amazon for about $15. Came with two remotes. I also carry a spare of the whole kit. I just take one remote up to the bow when I set or retrieve the anchor, and if I end up back at the helm, I can use it there. Couldn't be easier. I never touch the switches at each helm, don't even know if they still work.

To me, this was preferable to cutting holes in the deck to install foot switches. I'd use them if they were already installed, but I don't see any reason to install new ones nowadays.
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Thanks for the idea of an off-road vehicle remote $15. Just install one on LunaSea, works great and saved $100+.
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Old 09-04-2016, 12:40 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Steve View Post
I have rocker switch at each helm and foot actuated up and down pads at the bow
I installed my windlass and controls and that is what I installed. I use the bow switches almost exclusively because the rode is cleated off at anchor and the anchor is cleated off when underway (that's how you are supposed to do it) so I have to go to the bow anyway.

I rarely use the helm switches. I could go to the bow, uncleat the rode, go back to the helm and raise the anchor and then go back to the bow to secure it but that seems like the hard way.
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Old 09-04-2016, 12:47 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by tadhana View Post
If you are going to have only one switch, I'd recommend putting it at the pilothouse helm. There will be times you want to adjust the rode during bad weather. If a squall is passing and you need to let out more scope, it is very nice not to have to go outside........
This only works if you haven't cleated the rode. If you don't cleat the rode, you might not need a switch to let out more. The wind or current will do it for you. Check the instructions that came with your windlass.
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Old 09-04-2016, 12:54 PM   #67
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I think the advantage of the foot switches over the remote is that they are always in the same place. You can't misplace them and you can't drop them overboard. And you don't have to worry about the batteries being dead.


Also, since you are using your foot to operate the switch, your hands are free to hold on to the boat, signal whoever is running the boat or whatever else you need to do.
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