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Old 07-06-2016, 09:37 PM   #21
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GF: I had those foot switches with a rod that goes down through a hole in the deck when I bought this boat. They failed the first time out, and the replacements I got are little micro switches under a rubber dome, red for up, black for down. nothing to bend, no danger of crushing them if you are too heavy/assertive. So no issues.

My main shutoff is like a main power switch, as the cables it shuts off are fatter than my finger. It is located near the battery that is connected to them. In 22 years, I have turned it off once, I don't recall exactly why. It is easily accessed, by lifting the forward floor hatch, as it is on the wall just below the opening.
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:43 PM   #22
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Both, but I have no flybridge. I have and suggest controls also located adjacent to the windlass. Convenient to control there when hauling up the anchor so to pick off weeds and wash off mud/salt. Here, launching the anchor ... one potato, two potato, ...

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Old 07-06-2016, 11:08 PM   #23
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Ever since I installed my windlass, I've never gone forward to launch or retrieve my anchor.
I slip the engine in and out of gear with my right hand and control the windlass with my left.
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Old 07-09-2016, 07:17 AM   #24
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In addition to the foot switch, why not a wireless remote that can be taken anywhere on the boat to operate the windlass?
I don't have a wireless remote, but I do have a corded one. It's a piece of cake to deploy or retrieve the anchor, running the boat from the bow with the remote, and operating the windlass with the foot switches.

I have windlass switches at the bow and the helm, but I've never used the helm switches.
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Old 07-09-2016, 07:45 AM   #25
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I would not want to be doing anything with the windlass, chain, or anchor with someone else at the windlass control, especially at another station.
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Old 07-09-2016, 07:47 AM   #26
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I would not want to be doing anything with the windlass, chain, or anchor with someone else at the windlass control, especially at another station.
How come? Ann and I have done this hundreds of times, using simple hand signals and direct communication.
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:50 AM   #27
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Main up down switch is at the helm in the pilot house. Used to drop anchor. When lifting anchor I am at the bow with a wired remote and the Admiral is at the helm.
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:15 AM   #28
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Clearly there are several permutations and combinations that work well.

One thing that has me up on the bow is to keep an eye on the angle the chain makes coming up, so that I can give hand signals to the Admiral at the helm, upper or lower.

She doesn't need to control the windlass, and with this combination, I don't need to control the engines. If I am alone (this hasn't actually occurred yet when retrieving the anchor) I wouldn't be able to remain at the bow, so would go to the lower helm (the one without a windlass control) to operate the engines.

I also need to be at the bow to control the buildup of chain in the locker. Knocking down the pile before it gets to the point of falling over on itself is important in my boat, and has to be done at east every 50 ft. I do this by using the manual cranking bar for the windlass, which I reach down into the chain locker through the 4" deck access pipe, and use it to direct the chain to fill the low spots, as it comes in, or to knock over any buildup.

Once (luckily not repeated) I raised a car-hauler trailer on my CQR. I absolutely needed to be at the bow as this behemoth rose to the surface. ( I released it outside the anchorage, in deeper water).

If ever there is anything fouled on the anchor, I would want to be at the bow.
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:18 AM   #29
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My wired switch and CB are at the primary helm, which in my case is the lower helm. I also have a wireless remote with a mount at the FB helm. The remote lives most of its life between the lower helm (for storage) and the bow for those times a washdown or a watchful eye is needed.

With the wireless remote, I can control the windlass from anywhere on or near the boat, even from the dock when working on the ground tackle.
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Old 07-09-2016, 01:43 PM   #30
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Originally had a switch at the main helm and a thru hull foot switch at the windlass. After replacing the foot switch three time, I eliminated it and use the helm switch only.

Except for the last foot of chain and anchor clearing the bow pulpit, I can handle it all from the helm. I painted the links white where I need to stop winching and lift the anchor through the pulpit rollers.

But if you're not all chain, then that would be a challenge for a single person.
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Old 07-09-2016, 02:11 PM   #31
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But if you're not all chain, then that would be a challenge for a single person.
It depends on the gypsy type. I have a combo gypsy and the chain and line rode flows through pretty seamlessly like it would if I had all chain.

If you have a chain gypsy and a line drum, then it's a bit more laborious.
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Old 07-09-2016, 04:34 PM   #32
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I bought a wireless winch remote, marketed toward use on off-road vehicles, from Amazon for about $15. Came with two remotes. I also carry a spare of the whole kit. I just take one remote up to the bow when I set or retrieve the anchor, and if I end up back at the helm, I can use it there. Couldn't be easier. I never touch the switches at each helm, don't even know if they still work.

To me, this was preferable to cutting holes in the deck to install foot switches. I'd use them if they were already installed, but I don't see any reason to install new ones nowadays.
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Old 07-09-2016, 04:54 PM   #33
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I bought a wireless winch remote, marketed toward use on off-road vehicles, from Amazon for about $15. Came with two remotes.
Like this?



https://smile.amazon.com/Factory-Wir...s+winch+remote
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Old 07-09-2016, 05:37 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopCar View Post
Ever since I installed my windlass, I've never gone forward to launch or retrieve my anchor.
I slip the engine in and out of gear with my right hand and control the windlass with my left.
When launching, I need to be forward after advancing a half-foot of chain for slack so to push the anchor over. Nevertheless, total recovery is possible from the pilothouse, but then there would be no one forward to pick off seaweed or wash of mud and salt from the anchor and its chain. Being forward, I can see what has come up from the bottom. ... How does your anchor locker smell?
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Old 07-09-2016, 05:51 PM   #35
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CaptTom
What brand of winch do you have? Was it difficult to install?
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Old 07-09-2016, 08:36 PM   #36
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Hi Mark, I use a combination rode of rope with about a boat length of chain. The chain is stainless steel and it comes up pretty clean even when my anchor is caked in mud. The anchor hangs pretty far forward so mud and such rarely come aboard.

If stainless chain wasn't so horribly expensive, I'd recommend it for everyone. The only reason I use it is I stumbled on a good deal many years ago.
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Old 07-10-2016, 07:03 AM   #37
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Quote:
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Yes, that's the one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kartracer View Post
CaptTom
What brand of winch do you have? Was it difficult to install?
I have an old PowerWinch 45.

Installation was not difficult. Just wired it to the solenoid switch. The hardest part was reaching up into the rode locker to reach the terminals. Most of the time was spent "engineering" before hand, taking photos, drawing schematics and generally just making sure it really would be that easy.

Now I'm starting to think about other uses for this type of remote. They have some that control multiple circuits, and they have both momentary contact and "on-off" types.

My next project might be a remote for the autopilot. The $350 wired remote that Simrad sells uses only four wires. Internally, it's just two switches, two diodes and a light bulb. Power on one wire, ground on another, and one wire each for the "left" and "right" buttons. Pushing both buttons together gives you the "mode change" function; the diodes allow all three functions over the same two wires. I have a PDF of the schematic I think I posted here once. A two-button remote that controls two separate relays would, in theory, give you the same capability for about one-twentieth the cost.

And what about the cabin lighting? I have a switch at each fixture. Wouldn't it be great to be able to turn banks of them on and off remotely?
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Old 07-10-2016, 07:46 AM   #38
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If you are going to have only one switch, I'd recommend putting it at the pilothouse helm. There will be times you want to adjust the rode during bad weather. If a squall is passing and you need to let out more scope, it is very nice not to have to go outside. this was our only switch for our first 4 years of cruising this boat. Cristina and I developed a simple set of hand signals so she could drive the boat up to the anchor and raise the anchor while I stood at the bow washing the rode. 4 years ago we installed a wireless remote. Now she merely drives the boat forward, still with hand signals, and i control the rise and fall of the rode as I wash it. This local control is particularly helpful as you bring in the last few feet of chain to stow the anchor. While a foot switch also gives you local control over the rode, it does limit your movement. In muddy anchorages, it is sometimes nice to be able move around on the deck to to spray the anchor from several directions.
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Old 07-10-2016, 08:08 AM   #39
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One downside of foot switches as opposed to remotes is the inability to walk around. Walking around permits you to position yourself to both see the chain and give hand signals to whomever is at the helm. I find that in a normal anchor lift I change positions two or three times as the angle of the chain changes.
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Old 07-10-2016, 09:30 AM   #40
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Aboard Seaweed I have a wired remote from the solenoid just outside the anchor locker. I simply hang it in the hatch when I've got the anchor down.

Here's my set-up:


#1) Where the remote hangs when I'm at anchor
#2) That's the remote
#3) Box where my solenoid lives
#4) Access to anchor locker.

Side Note: The cord for the remote looks like an old telephone cord though heavier/bigger. It fits inside that box when I'm not using it.

The box is in the wrong dang place. I'd wanted to put it on the forward bulkhead. Aw, but for the lack of six more inches of 4-gauge black wire. Sigh. I didn't want to add a break in that wire run so there you have it.

My concern regarding the wireless remotes is that if you came in with a remote set at the same frequency as mine, couldn't you raise my anchor? Is that one of those "it never happens" things or not?
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