Whats your thoughts on this................

[Rocky]

Thanks Marin. I've been looking at the memory foam on Overstock.com and they make all types and thicknesses. Where'd you purchase the woven plastic for underneath? Or did that initially come on your boat? That seems like a very smart precautionary thing to have under all the mattresses. The original worn out foam currently on the beds is incased in a tweedish upholstery. I'm thinking of just putting the new memory foam on top of that. Hope it works, my first few nights on board our new boat have been less than pleasant, woke up barely able to move for at least 5 minutes. Thanks for you input.

 

[Marin]

The product is called hypervent. We bought ours from Fisheries Supply in Seattle http://www.fisheriessupply.com/prod...id=1646&keywords=hypervent&radkm=on&km=entire

It's sold off a roll and you buy it by the length. It took two pieces crosswise to cover our queen size matress platform.



-- Edited by Marin on Wednesday 7th of July 2010 05:23:40 PM

 

[Keith]

Some people just use plastic or cedar latticework from Home Depot or the like to ventilate under mattresses. Might take a couple of layers. Lots cheaper.

 

[Marin]

While the Hypervent is certainly more expensive than simple cedar lattice one advantage is that because the woven plastic fibers move when you move around on the mattress there is no way any moisture can form between it and the mattress fabric. I know people who have used both lattice or that interlocking plastic grid stuff to try to combat moisture under a mattress. The lattice made a nice cross-hatch of mildew on the underside of the mattresses. The plastic grid did a better job but could still trap moisture on the panels underneath the mattress because of the "seal" between the mattress and the rigid plastic grid.

According to the folks on the GB owners forum, who seem to have tried everything over the years, the woven Hypervent material does the best job. This is where we first heard of it and after some ten years of having it under the mattresses on the boat we have yet to have a moisture problem, where we did before.

There may be a similar material made for some other non-marine purpose (furnace or air duct filters?) that will accomplish the same thing as Hypervent but at a much lower cost. Worth checking out.



-- Edited by Marin on Wednesday 7th of July 2010 08:43:55 PM

 

[koliver]

We use blue styrofoam. have used it for the last 15 years or so, no maintenance, no moisture. On top of that, a foam mattress, fairly high end, and it is the most comfortable bed we own.

 

[Rocky]

blue styrofoam? You get this in sheets? This doesn't crack over time? And....where do you get it? Just call me 20 questions, sorry.

 

[Keith]

Sounds like house sheathing, sold in 4' x 8' sheets at Home Depot et al. I use the same stuff with the foil layer to cover my windows from the inside (foil out) and it really keeps the boat cooler. I only do this in the pilothouse, not the saloon.

 

[koliver]

We used 2 inch blue styro, bought enough to cover the whole area of the bed (on top of the water tanks in the aft cabin). Bought it at home Depot, interlocking sheets about 2ft x 8ft. Warmth is the key, no condensation, like we used to have trying to warm the water tanks with our body heat, so no mould. And no cracks, as there is no movement, no unsupported areas. That was only 4 questions.

 

[Rocky]

Koliver,
Checked Home Deport online and see they have the 2" and also a 3/4". What made you go with the thicker product? Just curious.

 

[Phil Fill]

We went to a foam store and bought closed cell memory foam.* You can buy it at some fabric/craft stores.* We covered it with a standard bed protection/quilted fitted pad/steet.* The closed cell foam does not absorb water so no need for plastic sheeting.* Its been 13 years and the bed still comfortable.

I am a little late on this.* We have a hydraulic bow thruster we can constantly run for hours.* When maneuvering if you use the prop walk to your advantage.* Our prop walk is to port so we thrust/maneuver/turn to starboard.* The thrust pushed the stern to port and the prop walk pulls the stern to port.* We can turn 360 degree just putting the boat in* forward and reverse. The bow thruster really comes in handy when maneuvering/turning to port as the prop wake counter acts the thrust.

However, if I get lazy I just turn on the bow thruster and thrust the bow around.* The last 2moorages we have very little maneuvering room, *like less than 10 ft, so the bow thruster came in handy.* On both we had to stop and pivot the boat 90 degrees.* Most large full displacement boats go dead slow and drift as they have the tonnage and deep draft.* A 40 ton boat does not stop very quickly and even if you bump something you/they will know it.*

Many large boats know when to leave/arrive at the dock.* Usually in the morning before the wind comes up, and later in the evening when the winds dies down with the summer thermal winds.**So use the current, wind prop walk to your advantage, and put down plenty of fenders and have lines ready just in case.*
*

*


-- Edited by Phil Fill on Thursday 8th of July 2010 08:56:43 AM

 

[koliver]

I chose the thicker when we had a 4 or 5 inch mattress, so with the 2 in styro, it brought the top of the mattress up high enough above the teak of the bedframe that you could sit on the edge without compressing the mattress to below the teak. A couple of years ago that one was thrown out and we got a nice new 10 in thick foam mattress, so I removed the plywood and the frame that held the plywood off the water tanks, and put the foam directly on top of the tanks, to get the right height. I don't think I could have done that with 3/4 in, and I likely wouldn't have fit in the 10 inch mattress. So choose the thickness that works best for your installation.

 

[Rocky]

Koliver, thank you for you explanation. I'm thinking we'll probably get the 2" blue foam put the old 4" mattress on top of that and then I'm getting a new 4" memory foam to go on top of that for a total of 10", think that will probably work just fine. Thanks again.

 

[Rocky]

BaltimoreLurker wrote:

It's been a matter of pride to learn how to back into the slip with a single engine boat.* But, now that someone mentioned it, I'm going to look at the possibility of trading slips with a neighbor to get the finger pier on the correct side for docking bow first.

So simple, but it never crossed my mind.* Doh!

Because of your suggestion BLurker I talked with the slip owner next to us and we are going to do a switch, so simple as you said.* Hubby still wants to practice backing techniques, but I'm still thrilled about pulling in bow first.* On top of that, it puts our aft cabin away from the dock, allowing more peace and quiet at nighttime.* We have some real routy night owls on our dock and you can't believe all the tom-foolery that goes on and how loud it gets sometimes.* Can't believe the marina is charging me $25 to make the switch, go figure.

*

 

[Peter B]

Which...if I remember correctly was something I suggested several weeks/posts ago, and having done it myself, I can say you won't regret it. Please let a bit of time go by now, and it's highly possible you may decide to spend that money, (for now anyway), you might have spent on a thruster, on something more essential you don't have. As I've admitted before, I manage without, nearly 10 yrs down the track now with this boat, and I'm still finding things I need more, but if I had bought a boat with a thruster I certainly would not have taken it out.
Watch for my new Avatar soon guys - she's out of the shed, newly printed, and just waiting for the anti-foul and propspeed....

 

[Rocky]

Peter,
Sorry I didn't give you some credit as well. Now that you pointed it out, you did suggest this. Whomever planted the seed in my head, its appreciated. I agree completely, there are many needs and wants on our list that would come before a bow thruster. When you are new to boating, these little simple things can make a real difference. Thanks again Peter, and I look forward to you new avatar.

 

[Peter B]

You're welcome Patti, I'm just thrilled you've done it. Having your pilot door open onto the docking side as well is another bonus in addition to it putting the prop-walk in the docking direction in reverse. These boats were made with right side docking in mind I'm sure. I wonder if we should rename that the port side and the other.....nah....too confusing.....
Now if only the rain here would stop so the guys could finish the anti-foul I could show Lotus off in her new set of clothes...

 

[Rocky]

Peter,
Weather never cooperates....LOL

We will be moving our boat to its new slip on the 27th, funny such a little thing can get you so excited. Its my intention to learn as much about skippering this boat as hubby, and the thought of backing it into the slip just about ruined it for me. My fear of hitting someone else's boat concerns me greatly, not to mention damage I could do to our boat smacking the dock. Funny, it was simple to do, I just asked.

Thanks again.

 

[Peter B]

Here's another tip, Patti & Hubby. To make things even easier when coming in, set up a fixed breast line from the cleat/bollard nearest the midships position. Make it so it's just the right length so the loop on the end holds the boat just where you want it, so once you get that one on the midships cleat, it can't move too far away, or swing enough to get near another boat sharing the other side of the slip. Better still, attach a decent length of another strong line to that loop, and set something up to raise the end of that line to about side rail height, so the skipper can step out of the pilot door at the right moment, (making sure the gear is in neutral - that bit IS important - believe me, I know.....), and literally just reach for that rope, by hand or handy boat-hook, so then it can be wrapped a couple of times round the midships cleat on the gunwhale, then the boat can be pulled near enough to get the main loop over the cleat, even if you have drifted a bit, because that midships line will be (needs to be) short, and therefore rather unforgiving trying to get it on the cleat first off. Once that is secured, you are set, the boat cain't go nowhere, and then even if one has missed getting the stern line on, it does not matter, as a wee idle in astern or for'd will pull the boat gently against the fenders and the dock. What I did to raise my grabbing line was make what I call my telescopic thingy, which is just an old car aerial, (wreckers yards have hundreds) set into a cheap synthetic VHF whip aerial base with Knead-it, and fixed to or near the midships dock cleat. I found if I used one made to clamp onto a horizontal rail, with a bit of 'pruning' of the plastic, I could actually bolt it to the middle of the dock cleat. I then stuck a bungy cord hook upside down on the top of the rod with the same stuff - I think you'll know what knead-it is...then a small loop on the end of the grabbing line will hook onto it and hold it up there for you to grab, with the rest coiled on the dock. Makes even single handed docking a cinch - well usually, unless it's very windy. Then once everything is secured, it telescopes down, and a release of the clamp mechanism lets it lie flat and out of harm's way on the edge of the birth. Works for me.
Walt does a lot of single-handed boating, he might come in with even more tips....although he does have one of those damn thrusters.......

-- Edited by Peter B on Tuesday 21st of September 2010 07:30:21 AM

 

[Codger2]

Peter B wrote:"Walt does a lot of single-handed boating, he might come in with even more tips....although he does have one of those damn thrusters......."

LOL* All good suggestions Peter, but if one can afford it, here's the secret.....


*

 

[Rocky]

Point is Seahorse, we can't afford a bowthruster, SO....these suggestions are very welcome and taken to heart and I thank Peter for sharing. I'm gonna have to reread though, not sure I get it, maybe hubby will. Don't know what knead it is, but again, maybe hubby will. Thank you for helping us.

 

[Peter B]

Patti, when I'm down at the marina this weekend - whether the boat is going back in or not, and the constant rain showers - very uncharacteristic for these parts, I might add - are making that a maybe, I'll take a pic on the old camera-phone and post it.

Knead-it is a roll of a type of epoxy filler in a tube , with filler and hardener in two layers, one rolled round the other, and the ends sealed with a round piece of grease-proof paper. One merely cuts off what one needs - kneads it in the hand until and even colour and warm, thus activating the hardening process, then stuffs it into the hole you want to fill, or in this case around the base of the old car aerial then bunged into the aperture of the swiveling aerial mount, and quite soon it sets as hard as a rock - literally. Brilliant stuff. The marine version will actually set under water. Do you have it over there guys - or an equivalent maybe.....anyone.....?

 

[Steve]

Those are generically called Epoxy Sticks here, and usually sold under a catchy name like Hold Fast, or Super Bond, etc. and are found next to the tubes of caulking material in most hardware stores. I find they work very well, they do have to be well kneaded, with your fingers as directed, before applying.

Steve W.

-- Edited by Steve on Wednesday 22nd of September 2010 06:21:33 AM

 

[Peter B]

Ok, Rocky/Patti (her hubby), and anyone ese interested. Here are a couple of pics of my telescopic dockline 'holder-upper' fashioned from and old car aerial set into the base of a VHF aerial (with epoxy stick) and mounted on the dock cleat, so as hold the end of a line in easy reach from the pilot door for the skipper to pull aboard a short midships "hold the boat secure till we get the others on", dock line.* Note the short looped dockline is now on the cleat, with retrieval line curled on the dock and end looped onto the hook on the top.* (Made from bungy cord hook stuck on to top of aerial, again, with epoxy-stick).
The second pic shows it with holder telescoped down, then laid flat on the dock by unclamping the swivelling aerial base.

 

[Rocky]

Thank you Peter, I get it now, picture speaks volumes.