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Old 05-15-2016, 10:02 AM   #1
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what finish is on my teak?

When I purchased my trawler last fall, the outside teak was coated with the u-v ravished remains of some kind of brown stuff. I'm getting ready to start taking it all down to bare wood this year and finish off with Cetol, but I'm curious what the brown stuff is (or was...). It is tempting to call it plain old paint, but in places you can see a little of the wood grain through the overcoat. Any ideas?




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Old 05-15-2016, 10:17 AM   #2
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looks like old cetol to me. paint scraper will work best
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Old 05-15-2016, 11:02 AM   #3
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I Have no idea as what that finish is, try a sharp scraper with a heat gun and then light sanding.

This is what Cetol should look like or at least it does on our boat, three thin coats, first thin coat of Cetol Marine and then two thin coats of Cetol Natural.......
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Old 05-15-2016, 11:27 AM   #4
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This is what Cetol should look like or at least it does on our boat, three thin coats, first thin coat of Cetol Marine and then two thin coats of Cetol Natural.......
That is more like what I am used to seeing with Cetol. The brown stuff looks pretty strange to me.
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Old 05-15-2016, 11:39 AM   #5
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Thinned paint???
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Old 05-15-2016, 12:18 PM   #6
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Yup, I agree. My six year old cetol on my stern rails was getting spots that resembled that this spring. Time to cut it down and start over.

Just as an added thought, I've found that after establishing a good foundation of several coats, as others have said. I do one additional thin coat later in the year applied with a cloth. Then in the Spring, run 220 sand paper over it lightly, just to knock the shine off it and apply another thin coat with a rag.

Don't forget to lift your rail stanchions, apply Cetol under them on your base coats too. Otherwise, moisture will leach under the Cetol and begin to separate it from the wood prematurely.
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Old 05-15-2016, 12:56 PM   #7
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It looks to me like a plastic type paint, perhaps a polyurethane like mat Minwax but I didn't think something like that would peal. I says this because I did an indoor project with the stuff and it was a similar milky color.
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Old 05-15-2016, 01:47 PM   #8
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About 50 layers of some kind of varnish.
OR, varnish on top of epoxy.
Epoxy will peel off the wood like that when it is thick and aged due to UV rays. Epoxy under varnish truly looks good for a short time.
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Old 05-15-2016, 03:08 PM   #9
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Looks like dark cetol on top of teak oil or it wasn't clean enough when applied. Could have been applied too thick in the sun and dried on top first .
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Old 05-15-2016, 04:23 PM   #10
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Greetings,
Mr. sbg. VERY old Cetol would be my guess. Refinish as suggested above.
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Old 05-15-2016, 05:38 PM   #11
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Very old original formula Cetol.
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Old 05-15-2016, 06:28 PM   #12
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That is typical of old Cetol.
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Old 05-16-2016, 02:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rochepoint View Post
I Have no idea as what that finish is, try a sharp scraper with a heat gun and then light sanding.

This is what Cetol should look like or at least it does on our boat, three thin coats, first thin coat of Cetol Marine and then two thin coats of Cetol Natural.......
Hello Mr Rochepoint. I like to use a heat gun and a scraper to get rid of old varnish, but I have a tendency to BBQ the poor teak with burn marks. Any suggestions on how I might improve my technique?
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:22 PM   #14
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Greetings,
Mr. sbg. Although others (the heat gun crowd) will probably disagree, I've found that a VERY sharp scraper removes a finish quite well. Yes, a bit more tedious and you do have to re-sharpen often but no chance of burning.

The possibility of burning or discoloring the wood is NOT the reason I don't use a heat gun. The reasons are: Where do you put that hot sucker when you need two hands? You're dragging an electrical extension cord around and if working over the side from a dinghy or a float, there's the danger of wetness.

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Old 05-16-2016, 04:19 PM   #15
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I've been doing quite a bit of this work lately on my boat. It took some practice, but I bought a heat gun and a QUALITY scrapper to remove some finishes and it works well once you get the hang of it. For others, or final clean up after getting what I could with the scrapper, I used the palm sander.

I have had the benefit of taking pieces off the boat and working on them in my home shop, but I would think the scrapper would work well on your railing.

This is the scrapper I purchased:

http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-650-Prem...ilpage_o05_s00

It's long enough that you can apply heat to the area you are scrapping without burning your hand.

As for going back with a varnish, I've been redoing my aft cabin wood with Man O War Spar Varnish and it looks amazing. Epifanes was a close second. I did use Cetol on some steps that just needed color, but you may want to experiment with one of these other products if you have the inclination.

Good luck!
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Old 05-16-2016, 06:56 PM   #16
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Wow, that's a cool tool! I've just been using a putty knife to scrape behind the heat gun.
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Old 05-16-2016, 07:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seattleboatguy View Post
Hello Mr Rochepoint. I like to use a heat gun and a scraper to get rid of old varnish, but I have a tendency to BBQ the poor teak with burn marks. Any suggestions on how I might improve my technique?
The trick is to heat up a small area so it is just hot to touch and then scrape it off using a paint scrapper, not a putty knife. A little practise and you will get the feel for it very quickly with the gun travelling in front of what you are scrapping. If you are making burn mark you are leaving the heat gun in place too long.

This is the type of paint scrapper I use available at any hardware store and make sure you get extra blades. A touch up with a file will keep them sharp....sharp....sharp.......
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Old 05-16-2016, 07:49 PM   #18
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Greetings,
Mr. r. EXACTLY!!!!! Cheap and available in a variety of widths. Mill Bastard file to touch up as you go along and...

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Old 05-17-2016, 08:52 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rochepoint View Post
The trick is to heat up a small area so it is just hot to touch and then scrape it off using a paint scrapper, not a putty knife. A little practise and you will get the feel for it very quickly with the gun travelling in front of what you are scrapping. If you are making burn mark you are leaving the heat gun in place too long.
So, if the old varnish gets hot enough to pull away from the wood, or wrinkle or bubble or change colors, it is too hot, is that right? I'm surprised that just "too hot to touch" would be of much help, but I will get a scraper similar to what you recommend and try it out. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:35 AM   #20
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In my experience, it's ready to scrape when it starts to bubble. It really isn't hard once you try it. Just move the heat gun back and forth in a small area and run the scraper over that section. You will see when it starts to work and go from there. My father, who is not the handy type, got the hang of it in 5 minutes. Just don't use too much pressure with the scraper or you can gouge the wood.
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