What do you pay for hull cleaning?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Do it my self with a tank, 50 foot hose with regulator . Hose is made any length you want ,set tank on dive platform , jump in. I use a 12 inch drywall blade to run along bottom. Gets any alge, shells off with no damage to paint or hull. Can get to thru hulls and running gear with that length of hose.
 
$2/foot or $84 typically once per month. I do my own zincs and buy them at rotometals.com.
 
Do it my self with a tank, 50 foot hose with regulator . Hose is made any length you want ,set tank on dive platform , jump in. I use a 12 inch drywall blade to run along bottom. Gets any alge, shells off with no damage to paint or hull. Can get to thru hulls and running gear with that length of hose.

Adding to this which is a great setup for most people and a tank will last awhile.

2nd stage hookah regulator + 50' hookah air hose(HAS TO BE BREATHING QUALITY) + water separator+ Harbor freight oilless air compressor(important) = unlimited air for under $200. Plus you now have compressed air on the boat(i even run air tools for short bursts with mine).

This comes with all types of disclaimers and I don't clean my hull in the marina. The water is nasty/oily and the risk of electric shock is there.

I also use this setup with a 12v high quality air compressor(masterflow 1050/moves a ton of air unlike those silly cheap ones), battery, and a float for a portable setup(for shallow water scalloping,etc). I don't even need a tank. Love it.

If you take this route you better get familiar with your equipment and in general be comfortable in the water. Keep it under 3-5' and there's hardly any danger(but as always there's some). YMMV

If you're interested in keeping it simple and cheap the MF-1050 will flow as much air as you need for hull cleaning but will not shut off automatically. doesn't like to run more than 20 minutes. I modified mine by removing the filter and some other things I can't remember off the top of my head.
https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Portable-Inflator-MasterFlow-Inflating/dp/B000L9AD2U
3RZhJjSl.jpg


I mounted one permanently on my Land Rover to fill the 33" tires in no time(nothing else came close). When off roading you have to drop your tire pressure for more grip/puncture resistance. You can also add a 5-7 gal aluminum tank(better for breathing), valve block, 90psi pressure switch for a setup that will blow away any air compressor that doesn't weigh 100lbs.

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/portable_oba/

Bonus points for a clean install like us boaters like.
picture_php_pictureid_53444_26bb62e2962774eed2e94ad7fbe076ce0431b5e4.jpg
 
Last edited:
Adding to this which is a great setup for most people and a tank will last awhile.

2nd stage hookah regulator + 50' hookah air hose(HAS TO BE BREATHING QUALITY) + water separator+ Harbor freight oilless air compressor(important) = unlimited air for under $200. Plus you now have compressed air on the boat(i even run air tools for short bursts with mine).

This comes with all types of disclaimers and I don't clean my hull in the marina. The water is nasty/oily and the risk of electric shock is there.

I also use this setup with a 12v high quality air compressor(masterflow 1050/moves a ton of air unlike those silly cheap ones), battery, and a float for a portable setup(for shallow water scalloping,etc). I don't even need a tank. Love it.

If you take this route you better get familiar with your equipment and in general be comfortable in the water. Keep it under 3-5' and there's hardly any danger(but as always there's some). YMMV

If you're interested in keeping it simple and cheap the MF-1050 will flow as much air as you need for hull cleaning but will not shut off automatically. doesn't like to run more than 20 minutes. I modified mine by removing the filter and some other things I can't remember off the top of my head.
https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Portable-Inflator-MasterFlow-Inflating/dp/B000L9AD2U
3RZhJjSl.jpg


I mounted one permanently on my Land Rover to fill the 33" tires in no time(nothing else came close). When off roading you have to drop your tire pressure for more grip/puncture resistance. You can also add a 5-7 gal aluminum tank(better for breathing), valve block, 90psi pressure switch for a setup that will blow away any air compressor that doesn't weigh 100lbs.

4x4Wire - Portable Onboard Air Installation

Bonus points for a clean install like us boaters like.
picture_php_pictureid_53444_26bb62e2962774eed2e94ad7fbe076ce0431b5e4.jpg

I’m really interested in this for snorkeling
 
Prices seem to be coming down over the last few years. I thought it was a deal 5 years ago to be paying $3 a foot then someone doing it for $2.50 a foot now the last 2 years I've been paying some navy divers $2 a foot. This is per month. In the hot months in the lower part of the Chesapeake it really needs a wipe every 2 weeks. I'm scuba certified now and plan on doing it myself from now on. I'll be on my third DIY hull cleaning this friday. Money saved from doing it myself will have payed for my gear in less than 2 seasons :thumb:

It's a crap job almost worth paying someone else to do. Dock neighbors found out I dive and want me to clean their boats but it isn't worth the time and effort @ $2 a foot to me :nonono:
 
Adding to this which is a great setup for most people and a tank will last awhile.

2nd stage hookah regulator + 50' hookah air hose(HAS TO BE BREATHING QUALITY) + water separator+ Harbor freight oilless air compressor(important) = unlimited air for under $200. Plus you now have compressed air on the boat(i even run air tools for short bursts with mine).

This comes with all types of disclaimers and I don't clean my hull in the marina. The water is nasty/oily and the risk of electric shock is there.

I also use this setup with a 12v high quality air compressor(masterflow 1050/moves a ton of air unlike those silly cheap ones), battery, and a float for a portable setup(for shallow water scalloping,etc). I don't even need a tank. Love it.

If you take this route you better get familiar with your equipment and in general be comfortable in the water. Keep it under 3-5' and there's hardly any danger(but as always there's some). YMMV

If you're interested in keeping it simple and cheap the MF-1050 will flow as much air as you need for hull cleaning but will not shut off automatically. doesn't like to run more than 20 minutes. I modified mine by removing the filter and some other things I can't remember off the top of my head.
https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Portable-Inflator-MasterFlow-Inflating/dp/B000L9AD2U
3RZhJjSl.jpg


I mounted one permanently on my Land Rover to fill the 33" tires in no time(nothing else came close). When off roading you have to drop your tire pressure for more grip/puncture resistance. You can also add a 5-7 gal aluminum tank(better for breathing), valve block, 90psi pressure switch for a setup that will blow away any air compressor that doesn't weigh 100lbs.

4x4Wire - Portable Onboard Air Installation

Bonus points for a clean install like us boaters like.
picture_php_pictureid_53444_26bb62e2962774eed2e94ad7fbe076ce0431b5e4.jpg
Just a Quick note about any air compressor. If you go this route , please don't use one with a tank. This is usally a steel tank and it will rust and POISON the air inside, from condensation. Had one of our dockmates use the shops air comp and ended up with a lung problem and was sick for over a year. After I was told of this , I drained the tank and showed him what he was breathing. Brown,rusted water came out. This helped his doctor in finding his problem, he throught it was from shallowing water. Only use a
oil-less compressor without a tank.,or better yet get a dive tank.
 
Breathing from a compressor that is designed for inflation only is reckless and dangerous.

There's no such thing as a compressor that's made for breathing.

Hookah compressors are simply oil-less compressors.

Google before tossing stones :rolleyes:
 
Just a Quick note about any air compressor. If you go this route , please don't use one with a tank. This is usally a steel tank and it will rust and POISON the air inside, from condensation. Had one of our dockmates use the shops air comp and ended up with a lung problem and was sick for over a year. After I was told of this , I drained the tank and showed him what he was breathing. Brown,rusted water came out. This helped his doctor in finding his problem, he throught it was from shallowing water. Only use a
oil-less compressor without a tank.,or better yet get a dive tank.

Water separator would have stopped that but I suspect it wasn't an oil-less compressor.

Either way I suggest an aluminum tank for obvious reasons.
 
$2.25 per foot here in SWFL
 
I have mine scrubbed every 3 months for about $3 per ft plus $10 labor per zinc change (I provide the zincs). On my boat, it's $100 plus zincs when needed. If I want a video of the bottom, thru-hulls and running gear after the cleaning, it's another $50.
 
Paying 2.35 per ft in Longboat Key, where the rich people are running us milionares out of town.
 
There's no such thing as a compressor that's made for breathing.

Hookah compressors are simply oil-less compressors.

Google before tossing stones :rolleyes:

The compressor you suggested costs $67.00

A hookah set up costs around $2500. You don't think there's a reason for that ?

The manufacturer of that compressor says its for "inflation only"

It has a duty cycle of 20 minutes....then it needs to be turned off!!!

Industrial compressors are not tested for air quality or reliability that's necessary for life support equipment.

Compressors for diving usually have a reserve tank to deal with fluctuations in the compressor and the divers needs.

Compressors for diving have been tested to supply enough air to safely dive at the rated depth.

I'm sure the filtration requirements are different as well, but of course you took off your filter so I guess that doesn't matter in your case.

If you want to trust your life to a $67 compressor that's certainly your perogative. Recomending that others do it is reckless.

If anyone is considering doing this, talk to someone you trust who understands the risks involved with diving and the effect that pressure can have on your body.
 
The compressor you suggested costs $67.00

A hookah set up costs around $2500. You don't think there's a reason for that ?

The manufacturer of that compressor says its for "inflation only"

It has a duty cycle of 20 minutes....then it needs to be turned off!!!

Industrial compressors are not tested for air quality or reliability that's necessary for life support equipment.

Compressors for diving usually have a reserve tank to deal with fluctuations in the compressor and the divers needs.

Compressors for diving have been tested to supply enough air to safely dive at the rated depth.

I'm sure the filtration requirements are different as well, but of course you took off your filter so I guess that doesn't matter in your case.

If you want to trust your life to a $67 compressor that's certainly your perogative. Recomending that others do it is reckless.

If anyone is considering doing this, talk to someone you trust who understands the risks involved with diving and the effect that pressure can have on your body.

Hookah compressors flow insane amounts of air and you need it for DIVING. For cleaning a hull it's overkill.

The reason the 1050 has a duty cycle of 20 minutes is because it runs continuous with an on switch. Simply wire in a pressure switch of your choice and it's good to go. I've used that 1050 many times for what we are talking about here.

I dont even really recommend that setup in my first post but presented it as an option that has worked for me. I also posted about how to build a compressor with a 7 gallon aluminum tank that will rival ANY off the shelf compressor.. I agree with what you said about breathing from steel tanks. I do like that it's 12v vs 110 for marine uses though.


The big question is if the $67 compressor is adequate and i'll say "it depends" is there a question of it being dangerous? That also depends.

If try a 40' dive with it and it dies you'll have a few breaths in the line without a tank.. Not a good idea. 2' under the boat? If you can get under there with a snorkel you'd be much better off.

No need to be aggressive and disrespectful this is a community of like minded people and not youtube comments section.;)

The $700 hookah compressors use the same interior parts as oil-free compressors(some are teflon coated/or diaphragm pumps).

Next part isn't for you as you seem well versed on the subject but I want another disclaimer to my post.
Do not confuse this with a oiled compressor.. They compress oil right through the line and into your lungs and will kill you quick. A water separator wont do any good with the toxins you inhale.

This might be where your confusion over compressors for inflation or a standard off the shelf compressor as in the past most of them were oiled compressors(I have a 28 gallon oiled in my garage).

Also there's mil-spec diving hoses that are safe for breathing and they cost quite a bit more than off the shelf pvc or poly.. Dont even think about breathing through one..


The biggest difference(and only difference really) is the performance of the hookah compressor some of which can flow 7cfm @ 40psi vs the 1050 2.5cfm @ 90psi(which is still impressive) the harbor freight(or any oilless 3 gallon with a steel tank) will flow about .7cfm @ 90psi.


A DIY hookah setup is not for everyone(the opposite I suspect) but with enough research you could build a hookah setup to rival the best for half price or a hookah setup for cleaning the bottom of your boat(what were talking about here) for much much cheaper.

Also keep in mind I dive with guys who have off the shelf units and they dive with mine so I know the performance envelope between certain setups and have even repaired some of my friend's units. I have many hours of research before taking this on but i'm not a professional by any means.

There are 100's of threads on DIY hookah and they are met with mild interest or blind rage by divers.. Bringing up $2,500 vs $67 as a concern to what "you'd bet your life on" makes sense on the surface but I challenge you to dig deeper on why they cost that much and i'm not saying they aren't worth it because they flow tons more air for once again.. Divers.

Here's a link to one of the best diaphram "hookah compressors" for $399(Keene T80). You'll need to drive the pump but even with breathing hoses and other parts it's far from $2,500.
Medium Duty Compressor: Keene Engineering Online

FWIW for hull cleaners the Thomas 1020 is the industry standard. While used in hookah hull cleaning it wasn't designed for that purpose. Simply compresses clean air(oil-free air). I'll also note that the Masterflow 1050 flows more air than the Thomas 1020 and it is also an oil-free piston driven pump the same as the 1020(2.5cfm vs 2.1cfm @ 90psi ;))

YMMV and sorry if I hurt anyone's feelings or sounded "matter of fact". Just trying to be a nice guy and share some info to those who are interested.
 
Last edited:
A hookah set up costs around $2500. You don't think there's a reason for that ?

Every recreational/light commercial level hookah you can buy is based on a compressor that was designed to do something else. Mrwesson is correct; there are no compressors designed specifically to provide breathing air and even in the most expensive, high end commercially-available hookahs, the compressor used in it can be bought off-the-shelf by you or me for under $500. So the answer to your question is, yes, there's a reason why you can spend a couple grand on a hookah. It's called "profit motive."

I have been building and earning my living with hookahs for over two decades. Every hookah I have ever put together has used the exact same compressors and hose/regulator assemblies you can find in expensive commercially-available rigs. Every bit as safe and reliable but for a fraction of the price. There is nothing special about the hookahs you buy. They all use components that anybody can easily source and purchase themselves, including the compressor.
 
Just did ours.
$3ft
 

Attachments

  • DSCF2610 copy.jpg
    DSCF2610 copy.jpg
    127.5 KB · Views: 42
Senangsekali. You are being over charged. Payed $160 for a scrub and zincs a few weeks ago.
 
Every recreational/light commercial level hookah you can buy is based on a compressor that was designed to do something else. Mrwesson is correct; there are no compressors designed specifically to provide breathing air and even in the most expensive, high end commercially-available hookahs, the compressor used in it can be bought off-the-shelf by you or me for under $500. So the answer to your question is, yes, there's a reason why you can spend a couple grand on a hookah. It's called "profit motive."

I have been building and earning my living with hookahs for over two decades. Every hookah I have ever put together has used the exact same compressors and hose/regulator assemblies you can find in expensive commercially-available rigs. Every bit as safe and reliable but for a fraction of the price. There is nothing special about the hookahs you buy. They all use components that anybody can easily source and purchase themselves, including the compressor.

Oilless piston compressors have seals or rings that can wear over time. The particulates, depending on what they're made of, may be unhealthy or worse when inhaled in sufficient quantities. Those compressors listed as human breathing air compatible may contain different seal / ring materials and are likely tested to be non life threatening.

At the very least, I would want a particulate filter measured in a few microns, to trap all of those particles.

For the record, I use a hookah off a scuba tank. The air is filtered and tested to be breathing air compliant. It costs a little more, but I'm worth it.

Ted
 
Those compressors listed as human breathing air compatible...

I have never come across a compressor so listed. Not even the model I currently use, the Thomas 1207, which is commonly used in dental offices. Further, even the compressor used to fill your SCUBA tanks is (by itself) also not "listed as human breathing air compatible." But of course, since it is oil-lubricated, modifications such as food grade oil and an added high level of filtration make it so.

Your inference that hookahs are inherently unsafe is specious.
 
Last edited:
I have never come across a compressor so listed. Not even the model I currently use, the Thomas 1207, which is commonly used in dental offices. Further, even the compressor used to fill your SCUBA tanks is (by itself) also not "listed as human breathing air compatible." But of course, since it is oil-lubricated, modifications such as food grade oil and an added high level of filtration make it so.

Your inference that hookahs are inherently unsafe is specious.
Nice try.

No one said hookahs were unsafe. The discussion is about the air quality going through them.

Ted
 
Commercial diving is done every day with umbilicals supplied by air compressors. Professional operations have oil or oilless compressors proper filtration, reservoir tanks or diver worn bailout tank, a standby team depending on the situation and meet OSHA standards. So yes, surface supplied diving with an air compressor can be quite safe.

Now I realize you're a one man show. You're not required to comply with any OSHA or commercial diving standards. The government can't require you to dive in a safe manner or even test the air coming from your system. I also realize that the diving you do only qualifies as commercial because you're paid for it. So cut whatever corners you want as it's only your life. But please stop trying to imply that what you use for an air compressor meets any safety standard, commercial or otherwise.

Ted
 
But please stop trying to imply that what you use for an air compressor meets any safety standard, commercial or otherwise.

Oh, I didn't realize that as a "recreational diver", you are a font of wisdom regarding hookah safety in a commercial setting. Bwahahahahaha! :lol:
 
$2 PER FOOT here in Yorktowne VA.
Guy came around in April this year and wanted to do my hull. Also agreed to put on new zincs. I said I would think about it. He gave me their business card and he had sign on his truck, so I suppose was legit. I told him I would tell others at marina. But hardly see anyone at our marina, and most people are only in for late spring and fall then the place is like a ghost towne.
Very private, mostly quiet, but does pick up a lot in summertime marina here in Seaford.
 
Another important consideration is that a commercial diver has a boatload of training, in what to do if something goes wrong, and I presume how to test air quality. Just because a commercial diver can do something, doesn't mean that the average joe can, or should do it.
 
Oh, I didn't realize that as a "recreational diver", you are a font of wisdom regarding hookah safety in a commercial setting. Bwahahahahaha! :lol:
Actually that would be technical diver, instructor, and instructor trainer / evaluator. Also had a retail store which including supplying boat bottom cleaners and commercial diving businesses with certified breathing gasses. When the commercial guys would go on certain federal jobs such as the regional nuclear power plant, they were required to have gas that met industry standard grade E with quarterly gas analysis. It was far easier to buy that from my store than maintain a station for those jobs.

So no, I'm neither a commercial diver nor a puddle jumper such as yourself. But I've forgotten more than you will ever know about compressing, filtering, storing, and blending oxygen, nitrogen and helium for technical and commercial diver consumption.

Ted
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom