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Old 02-22-2015, 07:06 PM   #21
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We went back to a traditional high oil varnish.
On your decks!?
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:13 PM   #22
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My only complaint with these photos of your boat is that I can't click on them and make them bigger!

Thank you!

I'm clearly in the camp of leaving your teak alone.

My thought (& I may be wrong) is that the high gloss & varnish teak cheapens the wood.

I see so many new boats doing the varnished teak...& as an owner of a boat, it just makes it more expensive.

But as a steward of an antique, for me, nothing can compare to the natural beauty of the wood...
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:15 PM   #23
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Oh...& it's less expensive!
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:28 PM   #24
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Those are two great points . And I totally get the steward reference too. Right on✌️


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
Twin Lehman 135's
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:40 PM   #25
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On your decks!?
Heavens no. Willard gave us FG decks. Cap rail, door and some other is enough for us. If we had teak decks I'd use the oil mix I used on the cap rails in Alaska. For a day or two my oil finish is a bit tacky. When I sit on the cap rail it clings to my pants a tad bit (very slightly) but nothing ever was transferred to the pants. I used Linseed oil (raw), turpentine, a bit of varnish and a smidgen of Japan drier. I may have missed an ingrededt but that's basically it. Using tung oil probably would be better but we heard tung oil was bad .... in Alaska but that was only local opinions. The turpentine is a natural fungus fighter. On the cap rail I recoated about once every 6 to 7 weeks. Keep that up and it lasts as long as you do .... as far as I know.
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Old 02-22-2015, 08:14 PM   #26
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Awlgrip(?) paint works great on a steel deck. I almost made a mistake of having a teak surface, but that's hard to maintain and expensive (extra cost better used for a first-class horn).


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Old 02-22-2015, 09:39 PM   #27
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A new teak deck, particularly one that is glued down instead of screwed down, is no more trouble to take care of than a glass or steel deck. Where a teak deck gets its hard-to-maintain reputation is when it gets old or has been improperly cared for over the years or both. Then they can become a chore to bring back up to snuff.
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Old 02-22-2015, 09:50 PM   #28
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Mark,
I like your hat.

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Old 02-22-2015, 10:01 PM   #29
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"""""forest of Cetol flakes flagging in the wind""""""

They are wind vanes.
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Old 02-23-2015, 07:54 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by markpierce View Post
Awlgrip(?) paint works great on a steel deck. I almost made a mistake of having a teak surface, but that's hard to maintain and expensive (extra cost better used for a first-class horn).


The boat in the picture I posted has a steel deck too. Obviously the owners and operators decided from experience that teak was a preferred surface.

I agree with Marin, teak decks are not a big deal to maintain vis a vis other solutions, and there's nothing like them for non-slip and under foot comfort. I wouldn't hesitate to have them again as long as POs (like mine) took decent care of them.
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Old 02-23-2015, 08:03 AM   #31
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I have found that tung oil ( a natural oil from the tung nut) worked very well on rails and teak that was around hatches. It kept it from drying out and cracking, looked very nice, plus seemed to last a lot longer than teak oil. The tung oil gave the teak a waxed feel, water beaded, and I don't recall it being slippery. It does not give it the high gloss but almost a mat finish. Here in the Fl. sun, I have seen a lot of teak dry,curl, and split when neglected.
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Old 02-23-2015, 10:29 AM   #32
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Put cetol on my cockpit teak sole once, one of the bigger mistakes I made early on with our boat, sanded it all off and el-natural.
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Old 02-23-2015, 10:56 AM   #33
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Quote:
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"""""forest of Cetol flakes flagging in the wind""""""

They are wind vanes.
I tried Cetol once on my cap rails on a sailboat . It was new teak and it looked good for about 2 years then started flaking off. I wonder if thinning first few coats or wiping teak down with acetone before applying Cetol might help . I know it has some pigment in it and the oil in teak just pushes it off .
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Old 02-23-2015, 12:46 PM   #34
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Marin said teak decks are no more trouble than glass or steel. I don't agree with that for Florida or the Gulf Coast an any other tropical or semi tropical area. However the foreman of our carpentry shop loves teak decks in Florida.
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Old 02-23-2015, 01:43 PM   #35
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Marin said teak decks are no more trouble than glass or steel. I don't agree with that for Florida or the Gulf Coast an any other tropical or semi tropical area. However the foreman of our carpentry shop loves teak decks in Florida.
You need to learn to read what people write, not quote what they didn't write. I said a NEW teak deck, not teak decks in general. As teak decks get old, are not properly cared for, are exposed to harsh environments, are abused by the use of teak cleaners and coatings, sure, they begin to require increased care or work to bring them back. Everybody knows that or should.
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Old 02-25-2015, 05:14 PM   #36
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I think my photos are all clickable.
Why are many here not.
For example all of Mark's (Coot) aren't.
I assume it has something to do w how they are posted. Or is it equipment?
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Old 02-25-2015, 08:26 PM   #37
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Mark,
I like your hat.

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Old 02-25-2015, 08:52 PM   #38
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Starside, I love that Captain's chair!!
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:06 AM   #39
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Starside, I love that Captain's chair!!

Thanks. They are the original. Very uncomfortable & much smaller than they look. Peeps in the 1930's must have had small butts! LOL
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Old 02-26-2015, 02:31 PM   #40
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Starside, our old 1929 35' ACF express spent most of her life in DC, her DC registration number was DC 225 A. The 225th boat registered in DC. We bought her from the original owner, moved her to Annapolis and cruised her for 5 years most of the mid-atlantic (sold her in 1982). She looked very much like yours and seeing your pix brought many happy memories back.

Thanks
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