Uniflow U50 Valve Rebuild Kit

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Arthurc

Guru
Joined
Sep 24, 2016
Messages
752
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Sea Bear
Vessel Make
Kadey-Krogen 54
Hi All,
I know this has been discussed but my searches haven’t turned up the right contact info. Does anyone know who makes/sells rebuild kits for the U50 valve in the old capalano steering systems? Just put her on the hard for the next 3 months and want to tackle that.
Thanks
Arthur
 
To my knowledge no one makes a rebuild kit. In a strange way the valve is fairly simple. Failures are usually caused either by residue build up causing the gates to not seal properly or the channels have become worn. If the first, a good cleaning often solves the issue. If the second, replacement is needed.

I have been unsuccessful in finding a replacement valve. I have been miss lead several times by information on the internet. I have come to the conclusion that the correct coarse of action is to remove the valve, cap the return line connect the incoming line to the corresponding out going line and replace the helm pumps with new helm pumps containing check valves.

I am not claiming to be the final authority on this. Nothing would make me happier than some one else coming on here and showing me where to buy new replacement valve’s but I fear most the input will steer us back to the same false claims I‘ve already seen on the internet.
 
I have also never seen any replacement unit or parts for them.
 
Hi All,
I know this has been discussed but my searches haven’t turned up the right contact info. Does anyone know who makes/sells rebuild kits for the U50 valve in the old capalano steering systems? Just put her on the hard for the next 3 months and want to tackle that.
Thanks
Arthur

Is this the valve (size of a large pack of cards) back by the hydraulics/rudders? I've tried everything else in our system and still have some 'loose play' in my steering :banghead:
 
hmm ok, might just look at replacing then. Its a slow leak but trying to eliminate failure points. Any reason why the old (275?) pumps are better than new ones, in other words would I be better off to try and find a shop to rebuild this?
 
Actually does anyone have pictures or details of their conversions to newer pumps with the build in valve? Specifically how the plumbing was retrofit? Ive heard costs of 3500 but also 12K estimates as some yards felt they needed to redo the lines?
AC
 
Just had a great conversation with the Dometic (Capilano) folks. Its actually a super simple swap. Here is a picture which shows exactly whats needed, based on this it makes no sense to try and rebuild that valve as much of the pain is bleeding the lines, etc which would be required in both a rebuild and upgrade to 1275v pumps.
 

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Just a note.
I recently got a used Uniflow valve, the small one most of us have and a much larger one although the porting is not exactly the same. I will have to set up and test it.
Went through Ebay using the

" notify me when one appears " function. It took several months.

The Uniflows are actually very simple, O rings on the bleed valves and the caps which contain the shuttles.

Actually once I understood the operation bleeding the Uniflow itself was quite simple.

Attached is a dwg. of the unit.
 

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Looking at the schematic, it would seem to suggest that you only need to change out the lower helm pump rather than upgrade both. Has anyone done this? Those pumps are pricey but if you only have to replace one it might just be reasonable. The lower unit becomes a spare for the upper unit as an added bonus.
 
I replaced my fly bridge pump with a new unit, while leaving the old unit in place at the lower helm station. The univalve remains, and the system works great from either helm station.

However, it is my understanding that if the univalve is the failure point then I would need to replace the lower helm pump to the new style since the new units include a built in check valve that the univalve initially provided.
 
Looking at the schematic, it would seem to suggest that you only need to change out the lower helm pump rather than upgrade both. Has anyone done this? Those pumps are pricey but if you only have to replace one it might just be reasonable. The lower unit becomes a spare for the upper unit as an added bonus.



I don’t see it the same way. The internal check valve on the lower unit serves that unit only.
 
On reflection I think your right. The Uniflow served both helms but the internal version will only serve itself.
 
I have been to.d that any major hydraulic shop can find a replacement valve once you describe its function.

Other hydraulic setups use similar valves.

Haven't tried it myself but might give it a go if needed.
 
I’m just going to swap the pumps to the newer 1275v ones, less to go wrong and more importantly parts availability.
 
Installed a new pump on our flybridge last yr when we bought the boat. Did not solve the 'loose' problem - ie full turn before it 'catches'. Had the ram rebuilt ($70 locally), no improvement. Consensus is the Uniflow valve. Guess I'll swap out the lower helm pump now, and pray. Just another boat buck :banghead:
 
Ask Arthurc for his Uniflow once he has removed it. If it works then you know yours was the problem.
If it still does the same then you have a problem somewhere else.

Are you absolutely positive you got all the air out?

There are two bleed valves, one on each end of the valve that are meant to be opened to allow the oil and air to bypass the cylinder and go directly to the centre plastic hose to bleed. This is done after the cylinder itself is bled.

If the cylinder is mounted like mine, the cylinder MUST be flipped so the hoses are UP and the cylinder tilted slightly to get the air to go to one end and then the other while the wheel is turned to force oil in each side and any air out. Then tip the other way and do the same. I blocked mine so each end could be purged.

Then remount the cylinder and open the bleed valves ONE turn to bleed, NO MORE or you will damage the O rings under the screw heads. Even 3/4 turn is better than too much.

Then do the wheel dance to force the oil directly into the drain line which will also take the air.
 
I forgot to add this last night.

If the cylinder is mounted so the hose entrances point down and the hose curls up to the Uniflow and the cylinder was NOT bled properly then there is likely air still inside the cylinder and no amount of bleeding will rid the cylinder of it. That would account for the wheel rotation before it "catches".

The air must be compressed before the cylinder piston will move.

If your cylinder is positioned like I describe then take the time and try what I described in the post above.
 
Look what I found

Arthur. if you decide you do in fact need a rebuild of your check valve assembly instead of re engineering your steering system, I found one ,marketed by Raytheon but made by Hydraulic Products , in the stuff I'm purging since selling my business. I'll try to make you a real deal if you want it. It's new but quite literally an antique! That ought to give you an idea of how long I've been in the business, the fact I even knew what the thing was ,and that I actually had one! I can't remember the last time I've used one.
I really hate messing with ebay but that's probably where it's going if you don't need it.
 

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Thanks Shawn, I am going to go with the new pumps and system as I have a continued concern on support should I have issues in a more remote location, as an example if a pump starts leaking or a line does its an easy fix just about anywhere. If the U50 valve fails thats a much bigger project and not one I would want to take on in some random small town :)
Super cool find however.
 
10-4. I just wanted to be sure that you didn't need it before I got rid of it. You'll certainly be better off in the long run plus your nice boat merits an updated steering system for sure!
 
Boomerang, sent you a pm, if you still have it, I would be interested, thanks
 
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