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Old 04-11-2014, 02:00 PM   #21
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Interesting thread. For those in the PNW or other areas with high, fast current, have you ever run into an issue where the strong current started to push the towed dink toward the boat doing the tow?
Simple act of the "towing" boat going fast enough through water (direction/speed of current is not a factor) to be "towing" the "towed" boat through water means that water drag on the "towed" boat's hull would keep it's tow line drawn back from rear of the "towing" boat.

If towing boat were moving slow enough through water, something like 1 mph or less, (again direction/speed of current is not a factor) and there was strong tail wind then if the towed boat has enough "sail" it may encroach upon rear of the towing boat. If that occurs then a bit more speed for the towing boat could be advisable!
Happy Towing Daze! - Art
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Old 04-11-2014, 02:32 PM   #22
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I think the bottom line on this thread is you have to experiment a little depending on the characteristics of the towing boat and the towed boat. Most outboards, on flatter bottom boats like my Whaler, and lighter boats like some inflatables, you can just dip the skeg into the water a tad, the prop never gets involved. Has made a big difference when we were towing these sorts of boats. But on deeper V tenders, that becomes less and less necessary. The slower you go, the simpler the rig can be. Consult the tender manufacturer to ensure that bow eye is robust enough especially if you are going to be in a seaway or going north of "trawler" speeds. We towed the Whaler through some bad to really awful stuff at 9 knots a variety of times and everything held up.
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Old 04-11-2014, 02:37 PM   #23
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Interesting thread. For those in the PNW or other areas with high, fast current, have you ever run into an issue where the strong current started to push the towed dink toward the boat doing the tow?
Yup, the pic bellow was taken running past ripple rock just north of Campbell River. A tide pool opened up pulling me down one side and taking the towed boat up the other. Them pools can get big real fast. The pic was taken just after I started to get stuff back in line.

My pop looked over at me a said whos the guy trying to pass us, knowing full well it was our boat. Had enough HP left to play with. just an example. One of them do I run the wall through or just stick in the middle. There really is no good one fits all answer for the area.
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Old 04-11-2014, 02:44 PM   #24
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I towed our 14' C-Dory behind our bigger boat last year for the first time. I bought a towing bridle from Top Knot and it worked well. When we we went into a marina, I stopped outside and tied the little boat to the port side and asked for a starboard tie.

We had no problems and it was easier to manage than I had imagined. However, we were in the San Juan's, so we were towing for short distances in protected waters. I didn't have to deal with any strong currents or following seas. I wanted to get some experience there before going any distances.
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:37 PM   #25
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Yup, the pic bellow was taken running past ripple rock just north of Campbell River. A tide pool opened up pulling me down one side and taking the towed boat up the other. Them pools can get big real fast. The pic was taken just after I started to get stuff back in line.

My pop looked over at me a said whos the guy trying to pass us, knowing full well it was our boat. Had enough HP left to play with. just an example. One of them do I run the wall through or just stick in the middle. There really is no good one fits all answer for the area.
Exactly what I was worried about. I think the first year we will use the dink and the second year trailer the riverboat up to Seattle and tow it up the inside passage....
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:11 PM   #26
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Exactly what I was worried about. I think the first year we will use the dink and the second year trailer the riverboat up to Seattle and tow it up the inside passage....
Don't be scared... attach float balls to your tow line. You'll be OK. I think!
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Old 04-29-2018, 12:41 AM   #27
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Well Tom with ASD, got my 6hp evenrude running and all tuned up for our 9’ Livingston today. Now that your a veteran Inside Passage maker, tell me what you think of me towing my 16’ aluminum runabout w/60hp Johnson on the voyage? (Most certainly not on the outside trip up to the sound though). It might be more comfortable, safer and dependable than the Livingston. Others feel free to chime in pls.

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Old 04-29-2018, 09:41 AM   #28
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Well Tom with ASD, got my 6hp evenrude running and all tuned up for our 9’ Livingston today. Now that your a veteran Inside Passage maker, tell me what you think of me towing my 16’ aluminum runabout w/60hp Johnson on the voyage? (Most certainly not on the outside trip up to the sound though). It might be more comfortable, safer and dependable than the Livingston. Others feel free to chime in pls.

Sam
Not sure what style of aluminum boat with 60 hp o/b you are speaking of. Many different hull shapes will tow in different ways and handle seas in different ways. Each towed small boat has its own peculiar needs for tow rigging, distance off stern, speed of tow... etc. Photos please. Chances are if it’s a sound seaworthy runabout that it will tow well in most conditions if everything is set up correctly for towing.
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Old 04-29-2018, 10:32 AM   #29
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The boat is an older Starcraft with an open bow. I will likely experiment on the Columbia with it this summer. Not sure if this is an absolute “no go” on inside passage trip or not with the open bow? I probably wouldn’t tow it in the ocean.
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Old 04-29-2018, 11:32 AM   #30
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I’d be standofish about towing on the river. Some fairly strong winds and opposing current make very closly spaced waves. Scary IMO
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Old 04-29-2018, 11:45 AM   #31
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Yes, so true. Especially in the gorge.
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Old 04-29-2018, 12:39 PM   #32
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Sam;
I have towed a 19 foot aluminum boat from the San Juan's to Alaska and back. You just need enough time to be able to pick your weather, knowing you are towing a tender. Make a cover that snaps on for the open bow so if you do take water over the bow, most will go overboard. You also should have good scuppers for the open bow to drain well.

Almost the entire passage is protected waters except for 3 open water passages. So most of the time you are fine.

Make certain the tow bridle has some shock absorbing capabilities. On mine I use Amsteel line which has no give, then I use some 3 strand nylon line at both ends to absorb the shock.

My biggest fear has always been having the tow eye in the bow of the tender break. This could happen if the tender gets sideways in a following sea, then the line is suddenly pulled tight.

This year I am towing a 15' Arima fiberglass boat.
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Old 04-29-2018, 09:45 PM   #33
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The boat is an older Starcraft with an open bow. I will likely experiment on the Columbia with it this summer. Not sure if this is an absolute “no go” on inside passage trip or not with the open bow? I probably wouldn’t tow it in the ocean.
Riveted or welded seams... another portion of the "picture".
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Old 04-29-2018, 10:54 PM   #34
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Riveted.
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Old 04-30-2018, 07:31 AM   #35
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Riveted.

Hi Sam

That is as I supposed being it is an older StarCraft. Makes me ask... have you noticed any water ingress when the runabout simply sits in the water or when you use it? Rivets can "work" lose over the years a boat's aluminum flexing during use or towing. Not that they will necessarily pop-out of place... but that the seam[s] may begin to leak in areas - as compared to welded which usually maintains a tight seal. With rivets they may look tight but not be; welds can usually be visually recognized as failing and needing re-weld.

So... In addition to the many thought provoking items regarding things to do [have available / make happen / be aware of] when towing a runabout: Keep in mind that if the rivets are lose and leaking in rough water for hours of travel that too may add to water buildup in the towed boat. Water has weight; as little as 20 gallons [being 166.8 lbs.] sloshing around can put unusual stain on tow lines in wave conditions as well as make the towed boat act differently.

There are a couple ways to minimize water staying in the towed boat [no matter how it gets in while towing]. That's another topic all together. Don't have time this morn to post it.

Don't be scared... towing is great! Just gotta be cautious on all parameters that may be encountered.
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Old 04-30-2018, 11:01 AM   #36
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Good advice! I see folks towing all kinds of stuff. Trailer it to Puget Sound and pick it up my friend.

Good idea practicing on the Columbia as this will give you a hint of haw it will react to current. Also practice pulling it in and side tying to the mother ship. Get a routine going so you don't back over the tow line.....
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Old 04-30-2018, 01:12 PM   #37
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Given that you have done the trip several times, would the runabout be more of a pain than necessary or an asset? Will the 9’ Livingston be just fine and less of a hassle. Perhaps we would be fishing more from restitution’s decks than the runabouts anyway? In summary, is it even worth it to drag the runabout?
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Old 04-30-2018, 03:56 PM   #38
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You could put one of the self bailing pumps on the tow line to make sure any water that gets in will get pumped out.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t.do?pid=63254
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Old 04-30-2018, 08:43 PM   #39
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You could put one of the self bailing pumps on the tow line to make sure any water that gets in will get pumped out.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t.do?pid=63254
That's pretty cool! Wonder how well it withstands sun degradation being that it's plastic??
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:33 AM   #40
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Given that you have done the trip several times, would the runabout be more of a pain than necessary or an asset? Will the 9’ Livingston be just fine and less of a hassle. Perhaps we would be fishing more from restitution’s decks than the runabouts anyway? In summary, is it even worth it to drag the runabout?
I tow my 12 dink. But maybe for the first time, just take the Livingston. Then once you got it figured out, then tow the bigger boat to Puget Sound by trailer and pick it up.......
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