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Old 10-19-2018, 11:47 PM   #1
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Tollycraft 40 tricabin, GB 42, Other?

After a lifetime with my family's old wooden trawler I'm looking to move to a FG trawler that offers easier access and the ability to store 'on the hard'. I'd like to keep the cost to the $80-150K range. I really like the GB42b ut am concerned about deck and fuel tank issues, cost of exterior maintenance, and lack of practical galley storage. I like the old Leymans (low cost to maintain,long lived, great engine room access) but don't like the newer ones with big turbocharged engines.

I recently looked at a '79 Tollycraft tricabin with Cat 3208NA. I was surprised how much it hit most of my desires (decent access, cockpit, tri-cabin layout, low maintenance exterior, no leaking windows). My concerns are tight engine room, durability of the engines (they have 4500hrs), and fuel consumption while displacing. The interior finish isn't in the same league with GB but was acceptable. Galley had practica storage options.

Any people have experience with these older Tollycraft 40s and what their problem areas might be? I know they're not a 'trawler' but I'd likely cruise it at 8-9kn though I have to say the option of getting up to 15kn when desired is attractive.

Also interested in other options. My desires are two staterooms, two heads, good visibility from the Salon, opening windows, good storage, and easy boarding access from a tender. We looked at an older OA 40 but it seemed small and had they typical Taiwan trawler window issues. I'm not looking for an open sea boat, just a good PNW cruiser that we don't worry about if it happens to get rough.
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Old 10-20-2018, 04:57 AM   #2
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Have you considered the Tolly 44 or 43? The addition of the cockpit facilitates rudder access, machinery space and deck movement. But, once into 35 + year old boats prior maintenance or lack thereof seems the bellwether.
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Old 10-20-2018, 08:45 AM   #3
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I happen to think that the 40 Tolly is one of the best configurations for its size. It’s a very cozy boat. Has great topside room and I’ve always liked two cabins separated fully by a salon. The 40 has good seakeeping, though not quite like the 48 with the round chine, but a big step up from the shallower 34.

I’m biased with having the 48, but I always kind of mentally skipped the 43/44 as they were too close to the 48 and why not just get the 48 at that point. Given as much single handing as I do, I’ve sometimes thought Maybe I should have preferred the 40. But I do like my 48 so very much, and either one is going into a 50 foot slip...

As far as the engine hours, you are not going to wear out a 3208 natural. Hours won’t tell you whether they will give you problems. If the boat is in good shape, I’d give no penalty to engine hours whatsoever. Do discount for age on the exhaust risers which are now expensive to replace and if they have not, need to be, and stainless alternative may cost you 5k. That would be my first negotiating point.
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Old 10-20-2018, 10:10 AM   #4
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Thanks for the comments. I love the 48 but we now cruise with just two of us most of the time so want to keep length down to control storage and maintenance costs. Since we cruise mostly with just 2 of us we don't need a bigger boat but do need to absorb occational guests. I like the 43 as well but they are rarer.
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Old 11-20-2018, 11:25 PM   #5
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We're in contract for a '79 Tollycraft 40 tricabin with diesels. After looking at a number of options it seemed to have a good balance of things we wanted without being too big since most of the time there's just the two of us. We'll see what the survey and sea trial bring out.
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Old 11-21-2018, 02:37 AM   #6
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Good luck with your purchase. Hope everything works out well for you.
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Old 11-21-2018, 07:58 AM   #7
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Hi Mo

Good luck with survey on 1979 40' Tolly. During 1970's Tollycraft Co. "lovingly" turned out some of the stoutest built boats available.

We greatly enjoy ours. Looked closely at 48', 44', 43' and 40'... fell in love with a really good condition 1977 34' tri cabin; this is due to our current life style and ease of locating covered berths when it's not in use. Comfortable extended-stay accommodations in the 34' and 40' tri's. Additionally, shallow draft of our 34'er is great for skinny water depths we often encounter in SF Delta's 1100 miles of sloughs, channels and rivers.

Regarding hull and superstructure build integrity/quality - Tollycraft was/is top of the line. If the Tolly you are reviewing has been well cared for it may become a fine boat for you and yours!
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Old 11-22-2018, 12:32 PM   #8
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We too loved the Tolly 40. At one point, we were in contract pending surveys for a '79 with 3208s. Just as the mechanical survey begin (at dock), mechanic noticed diesel in the bilge. Fuel tank failed which is a common problem for any boat of that vintage. If the tanks haven't been addressed yet. I would have the mind set that they will be soon.

Tolly has some brightwork but not as much as the GB.

Good luck!
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Old 11-22-2018, 01:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmo View Post
We too loved the Tolly 40. At one point, we were in contract pending surveys for a '79 with 3208s. Just as the mechanical survey begin (at dock), mechanic noticed diesel in the bilge. Fuel tank failed which is a common problem for any boat of that vintage. If the tanks haven't been addressed yet. I would have the mind set that they will be soon.

Tolly has some brightwork but not as much as the GB.

Good luck!
Tanks - Aluminum??

We have orig aluminum in our 34' 1977 Tolly... so far so good. Still look like new. We keep em dry outside as well as with additives [Soltron] to keep em water free inside [I hope]. Ours are gasoline.

Always have my nose and eyes open.

One factor that really makes owning/caring-for our Tolly simple is there is NO wood on exterior! Having spent many young years carrying for wood boats in New England climate... no outside wood is super-fine with me!!
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Old 11-23-2018, 11:26 AM   #10
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The fuel tanks on this boat have been changed out so hopefully that won't be an issue. The 40 has a wood cap rail and it does need refinishing, should be stripped and finished but its manageable.

What are peoples experience with older Vacuflush heads? This boat has both heads on the Vacuflush system. I tend to prefer to have at least one manual (I like Willcox Chritnden) just for reliability, but if the vacuflush are reliable or at least easy to fix then I may leave it alone.
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Old 11-23-2018, 11:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowmo View Post
...What are peoples experience with older Vacuflush heads? This boat has both heads on the Vacuflush system. I tend to prefer to have at least one manual (I like Willcox Chritnden) just for reliability, but if the vacuflush are reliable or at least easy to fix then I may leave it alone.
Our Vacuflush system is 31 years old. We’re on Hobo full time and only one head. Other than the noise when you initially flush, we love it. They aren’t maintainance free but what is on a boat? PM is the key and to stock some spare parts.

With two heads the same, you have a back up if one goes down, one manufacturer for the spares and being fresh water, you’ll have less head odors.
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Old 12-27-2018, 09:15 PM   #12
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Well we completed sea trial and survey. Unfortunately lots of deferred maintenance so we're trying to estimate how much it would cost to repair it all. Engines were OK.

Biggest issue was that the noise in the cabin underway was really high, probably over 90db. Seemed as if engine vibration gets into the structure. It seemed to have good insulation but still the noise was objectionable, you'd have to be on the flying bridge when running (or wear earplugs!).
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Old 12-27-2018, 10:51 PM   #13
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Structure borne noise can be a tough problem to resolve. Did you look at the motor mounts and see if they have failed? If so that is a relatively cheap fix.
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Old 12-29-2018, 07:57 PM   #14
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Motor mounts are old, perhaps original. We have to change out the dripless logs so will do the motor mounts at the same time.

Also considering rubber flex couplings since we'll have the shafts disconnected.

The mechanic also said he's seen induction resonation on the 3808NA that can be addressed by modifying the air inlet and filter. I guess stock it points right up at the floor.
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