Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 11-06-2015, 06:00 PM   #1
Guru
 
Heron's Avatar
 
City: Cypress Landing Marina (NC)
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Heron (2)
Vessel Model: '88 Cape Dory 28 Flybridge #115
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,084
Teak treatment for a platform in the water a good deal of time...>>

I have a low swim step...While running, it is generally in the water or being washed a good part of the time. This past season it had a single coat of Cetol on it (the way it was when I bought it). After a season of running the cetol is largely gone and the platform looks a bit funky. It is off the boat now for the paint prep, and I'm wondering how i should refinish it. Varnish? Cetol in multiple coats? Polyurethane?

__________________
Advertisement

__________________
Steve
Heron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2015, 06:15 PM   #2
Guru
 
djmarchand's Avatar
 
City: East Greenwich, RI
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Bella
Vessel Model: Mainship Pilot 34
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,882
How about teak oil? It will slowly degrade over time with sun and water exposure, but all you would need to do is to gently scrub it with a mild detergent and reapply oil periodically.
__________________

djmarchand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2015, 06:42 PM   #3
Enigma
 
RT Firefly's Avatar
 
City: Slicker?
Country: Bumpkin?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 9,996
Greetings,
Mr. H. Pretty well anything you put on will make the swim platform slippery potentially to the point of being dangerous. Since the platform is already off, give it a good cleaning, removing all the old coating and leave it natural. A light scrub from time to time with sea water should have it looking its best AND be non-skid.
__________________
RTF
RT Firefly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2015, 06:47 PM   #4
Guru
 
koliver's Avatar
 
City: Saltspring Island
Country: BC, canada
Vessel Name: Retreat
Vessel Model: C&L 44
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,174
My swim step is much higher above the water than yours, yet it is always awash while i am under way. I had mine off, in order to extend it to a more useful depth. While it was off, I refinished the underside with 4 coats of spar varnish. Since doing that several years ago, at haulout time I have inspected it and found that the varnish stays clean. Before varnishing it, the bare teak would attract green growth and other dirt.

I have cleaned the top side a few times, at haulout or otherwise, but I find that it needs less attention than the teak on my main decks, as it gets less traffic. I haven't used any oils or varnish, as I don't like the idea of slipping off into the water if stepping on the varnished surface while it is wet. I know I would never slip off, but I am concerned about newcomers being less boatwise and slipping. I have grown fond of the naturally grey look.
koliver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2015, 06:54 PM   #5
Guru
 
healhustler's Avatar
 
City: Longboat Key, FL
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Bucky
Vessel Model: Krogen Manatee 36 North Sea
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,181
Steve: I don't prefer the natural gray that results, and especially not when half wet. Still, sanding and sealing is a three to four month life, sanding an varnish or Cetol would be about the same on a swim platform, maybe a season or two with multiple coats. Sanding with finer than 150 might also take out the grip. I'd leave it grey. Great looking boat, by-the-way.
__________________
Larry

"I'd rather be happy than dignified".
healhustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2015, 08:12 PM   #6
Guru
 
caltexflanc's Avatar
 
City: North Carolina for now
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Small Incentive
Vessel Model: Boston Whaler 130 Sport
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,802
Nothing. By far the best solution.
__________________
George

"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
caltexflanc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2015, 09:07 PM   #7
Scraping Paint
 
City: -
Country: -
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,748
I agree with George. Our teak swimstep is now 43 years old. It's certainly not pristine but it's in surprisingly good condition and shows no signs of failing although I hope to build a new extended one when I get the time to do it.

It has never (to my knowledge) had any finish on it at all. Putting anything on a slatted teak swimstep like this one will result in the finish failing sooner rather than later as all the joints work whenever the step is stepped on or a dinghy hauled up on it and so forth. One of the main reasons finishes fail is that joints work, the finish cracks, and moisture gets underneath and lifts the finish.

Teak oil won't do this, of course, but it will weather off surprisingly fast. Plus it can build up a sticky residue that then traps and holds dirt.

The only success I've had with putting a finish on a multi-jointed platform is with the shower grate in our aft head. In typical Grand Banks fashion the grate is an interlocking jigsaw puzzle of teak strips, I think about one by one and a half inches or thereabouts. It had been varnished at one point but the finish quickly cracked at the joints as the grate flexed and most of the finish was gone by the time we bought the boat. The grate joints were also loose and the thing flexed and squeaked like crazy when stepped on.

After learning on the GB forum that leaving it like this would ultimately result in it breaking I took it home, knocked it completely apart, removed the little bit of finish that was still there, and then reassembled it using epoxy in every joint.

Once this had set up I gave the grate a finish sanding, painted it with about five coats of CPES and put it back in the boat.

That was about 15 years ago and the grate still looks like I just did it. BUT....... this only works because of the environment the grate lives in, which is dark most of the time. CPES is like most other epoxies and it will break down rapidly under UV light. Which is why when we use it on all the exterior teak we refinish we immediately cover it with multiple coats of finish, Bristol in our case. The Bristol protects the CPES from UV. When we rebuild a window frame (mahogany) we give the bare frame a couple of coats of CPES and then apply the primer and white paint we use which shields the CPES from UV.

But in the aft head the shower grate rarely gets exposed to UV and then for just short periods of time. What's great about our CPES "finish" is that it has sealed all the wood so it never absorbs any moisture from a shower so it dries off right away, and the multiple coats of CPES give it a finish that looks like satin varnish. And between the epoxied joints and the CPES soaking into the wood everywhere else the grate is as solid as a slab of concrete.

While the same technique would work on a swimstep it wouldn't last because the CPES would be destroyed in short order by UV. And putting a finish over the CPES to protect it from UV wouldn't accomplish anything in the long run because swimsteps are pretty flexible and the finish would start to crack at the joints and moisture would get underneath and lift it off at which point the CPES would be exposed to UV and it, too, would eventually fail.

So the best thing is to follow George's advice and treat it like a teak deck. Leave it bare and let it go gray. At least being "washed" by the water splashing up on it while underway will keep it clean, unlike a teak deck which should be washed--- correctly---- periodically.
Marin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2015, 01:44 AM   #8
Guru
 
Bob Cofer's Avatar
 
City: Bellingham
Country: US
Vessel Name: Ebbtide
Vessel Model: '72 Grand Banks
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,029
Our swim step had several coats of cetol on it and was slick as snot. Last hail out I sanded it all off with 80 grit then washed it with salt water and a stiff brush. Now I wash it off when it needs it with the same brush. It is way better now.
__________________
What kind of boat is that?
Bob Cofer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2015, 03:07 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Liberty2015's Avatar
 
City: Pittwater
Country: Australia
Vessel Name: Liberty
Vessel Model: 57 foot Halvorsen
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 178
Leave it Natural, if the colour gives issues , give it a hit with oxalis acid and then some teak brightener. Other than that the salt water ? Will do it good. I say or assume Salt water is where your vessel is located.

Ours is the same and is 25 years young.

Cheers Chris D Liberty
Liberty2015 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2015, 03:14 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Liberty2015's Avatar
 
City: Pittwater
Country: Australia
Vessel Name: Liberty
Vessel Model: 57 foot Halvorsen
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 178
Leave it Natural, if the colour gives issues , give it a hit with oxalis acid and then some teak brightener. Other than that the salt water ? Will do it good. I say or assume Salt water is where your vessel is located.

Ours is the same and is 25 years young.

Cheers Chris D Liberty
Liberty2015 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2015, 03:58 PM   #11
Guru
 
Heron's Avatar
 
City: Cypress Landing Marina (NC)
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Heron (2)
Vessel Model: '88 Cape Dory 28 Flybridge #115
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,084
Thanks for weighing in everyone. Consensus seems to go bare which sounds like a plan to me...Less work in the end once I get it sanded back to wood.

I'm on it!
__________________
Steve
Heron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2015, 04:09 PM   #12
Guru
 
Capt.Bill11's Avatar
 
City: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale
Country: USA
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,422
Oxalic acid is wood brightener/ bleach.

The best mild teak cleaner and brightener I've found are these products.
So mild you can scrub the decks in your bare feet and there is no burn to your feet. They also do not discolor SS or chrome.

They leave the teak decks looking like you cleaned it with a standard two part cleaner. But without the harsh after effects.
Capt.Bill11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2015, 09:56 AM   #13
Guru
 
Heron's Avatar
 
City: Cypress Landing Marina (NC)
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Heron (2)
Vessel Model: '88 Cape Dory 28 Flybridge #115
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,084
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt.Bill11 View Post
Oxalic acid is wood brightener/ bleach.

The best mild teak cleaner and brightener I've found are these products.
.

Also the best Mustache remover you'll find! You can buy several pounds of the powder on Amazon/Ebay for a few bucks. Mix a few ounces in a spray bottle and you're good to go.
__________________
Steve
Heron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2015, 01:11 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Sealife's Avatar
 
City: In transit
Country: From USA
Vessel Name: Sea life
Vessel Model: Krogen 42 #61
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 378
My platform has similar characteristics, I used Bristol finish. Left Baltimore Sept. 1, currently in Bahamas. Holding up great, but is slick as snot when wet. I did use a grip additive to my interior stairs during varnish, will probably add same to platform during maintenance coat next year. Varnish, sprinkle sand and varnish again.
__________________
Scott

www.caribbeansealife.com
Sealife is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2015, 04:10 PM   #15
omc
Senior Member
 
omc's Avatar
 
City: Antibes
Country: France
Vessel Name: LUTIN
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 42' Motor Yacht
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 480
Live it natural, give it hydrogen peroxide twice a year what is not expensive at all, and very nice look.
__________________
Olivier
omc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2015, 05:04 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
oscar's Avatar
 
City: Bethlehem, PA
Country: United States
Vessel Name: Lady Kay V
Vessel Model: Don't know yet.....
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 420
If it was mine I would put boiled linseed oil on it. I've used it in numerous applications over the years and I really like it. It seems to have an amazing propensity to repel water without getting slippery. It doesn't have to be sanded as it does not apply a coat. And.... it smells good. There's a reason the old timers had a can of it nearby at all times....
__________________
Currently boatless but looking. Avatar is my first boat....Holland, 1965 ish.....
oscar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2015, 10:58 AM   #17
Guru
 
SCOTTEDAVIS's Avatar
 
City: Vero Beach, FL.
Country: US
Vessel Name: FIREFLY
Vessel Model: Pilgrim 40
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 913
I ran several dive boats for years in the Fl. Keys and teak dive platforms were always left natural. Best non-slip and easy care.

Think of yours as self cleaning and enjoy. Other bright work can be shinny if you like, but leave the dive platform natural.
SCOTTEDAVIS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2015, 12:29 PM   #18
Guru
 
Heron's Avatar
 
City: Cypress Landing Marina (NC)
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Heron (2)
Vessel Model: '88 Cape Dory 28 Flybridge #115
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,084
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTTEDAVIS View Post
I ran several dive boats for years in the Fl. Keys and teak dive platforms were always left natural. Best non-slip and easy care.

Think of yours as self cleaning and enjoy. Other bright work can be shinny if you like, but leave the dive platform natural.
Yes...I think I'll go bare..
__________________
Steve
Heron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2015, 03:09 PM   #19
Guru
 
healhustler's Avatar
 
City: Longboat Key, FL
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Bucky
Vessel Model: Krogen Manatee 36 North Sea
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,181
When I installed my new platform on Bucky, the chicks wanted it to be bare too, so I complied.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	big Swim Platform.jpg
Views:	33
Size:	60.1 KB
ID:	46387  
__________________
Larry

"I'd rather be happy than dignified".
healhustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2015, 06:15 PM   #20
Guru
 
SCOTTEDAVIS's Avatar
 
City: Vero Beach, FL.
Country: US
Vessel Name: FIREFLY
Vessel Model: Pilgrim 40
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 913
Quote:
Originally Posted by healhustler View Post
When I installed my new platform on Bucky, the chicks wanted it to be bare too, so I complied.

I approve this post!
__________________

SCOTTEDAVIS is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:54 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012