Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-05-2015, 08:28 PM   #21
TDunn's Avatar
City: Maine Coast
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Tortuga
Vessel Model: Nunes Brothers Raised Deck Cruiser
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 711
I redid my aft and side decks. I didn't have teak decking, just soft decks. I cut out the top layer of glass then removed the rotted and mushy balsa core. After that I sanded the exposed glass in the lower layer and vacuum bagged down a layer of 1/2" core-cell closed cell foam except in load bearing areas. After the resin holding the core down kicked I built up the load bearing areas with solid glass (alternate layers of roving and mat) to the thickness of the core. The next step was to put down a new top layer of glass. I vacuum bagged down three layers of 1708 biaxial stitch mat with layers of mat between and a final layer of mat on top (all done in one operation). I did the job in relatively small section and the work described above took about 3 days per section. I think the vacuum bagging is essential to get the core to adhere well to the glass. When all the glass work was done I faired out the surface with epoxy based fairing compound, sanded it fair and painted with two-part urethane. Fairing took about the same time as the structural glass work in terms of days. All together the project took about two weeks. The hardest part was fairing and painting. Materials (foam core, fiberglass, epoxy, fairing compound and paint) cost about $1,100 for my job. I think the labor was about 110 hours (I did it myself). To have a yard do it would likely have run 120 hours so say $6K to $12K for labor depending on local rates. Having the yard do the work would also include haul and launch. When I did the work I did it after my Fall haul out, so there was no extra hauling charge.

The trick is to do it in reasonable bits. The first one will take you a while, but the later sections will go more quickly. Also, if you do it in sections, you can use the boat after you get the top layer of glass on each section. In other words, you can do this in the water.

This was on my glass boat, not the woody shown in the picture.

TDunn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2015, 08:52 PM   #22
refugio's Avatar
City: Meydenbauer Bay Yacht Club
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Refugio
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,141
We snuck away for a few hours to see the Mission Impossible matinee...

Anyway, I think everyone's agreed that an epoxy bond to unencapsulated wood will fail (ply will work).

But mechanically fastening the two does work, though below the waterline it extends the life only a few years and isn't appropriate for the boats here. A refinement on that technique - called C-Flex- with an elastomeric separation has faired better.

Another advantage of a covering technique is that it can be tried on an area - e.g. foredeck only - without turning the entire vessel into a salvage project until completion.

Or, hell, go with the nuclear option and tear it all away.

refugio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2015, 09:21 PM   #23
Senior Member
Brisyboy's Avatar
City: Brisbane
Country: Australia
Vessel Name: Malagari
Vessel Model: Island Gypsy 36 Europa
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 223
Originally Posted by Martin J View Post
Hi George, are you sure it has a foam core? normally yachts do not have foam in the decks, it's to susceptible to heat.

Pretty sure its foam - I drilled a small test hole into the underside of the upper deck/flybridge and what came out on the drill bit was white (ish) and granulated


IG 36 Europa
Brisyboy is online now   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:15 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012