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Old 08-03-2016, 08:03 PM   #1
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Teak Deck thought

What if you leave the teak and cover it with a couple sheets of FRP. You could install a border around of maybe 1" x 1/2" plastic around the outside edge the same thickness as the edge of the teak deck. Remove everything from the deck lay the FRP down attach it to the Teak deck with mastic. Then glue the edge to the the FRP. Reinstall railing and such!
The FRP would be very strong with the teak "underlayment". May need to apply some type of none skid. it would be one piece and should be completely waterproof!
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Old 08-03-2016, 10:50 PM   #2
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What do you mean by "frp" ?
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:11 PM   #3
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What do you mean by "frp" ?
Fiber Reinforced Plastic .... i.e. fiberglass
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:16 PM   #4
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Teak is an oily wood. Bonding could be a issue.
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:18 PM   #5
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They are sheets of (fiberglass reinforced plastic) used often in commercial kitchens on the walls. 100% water proof!
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:20 PM   #6
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They are sheets of (fiberglass reinforced plastic) used often in commercial kitchens on the walls. 100% water proof!
Maybe, but you still have to bond the material to the teak.
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:24 PM   #7
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It sure seem as if it would be a lot easier that removing the teak and re fiberglassing. With the teak under the FRP it would be very strong! You can get a 5 x 9 sheets that would cover my aft cabin completely one piece! Maybe two days work. The sheets are under $100 dollars.
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:31 PM   #8
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Just trying to think outside the box a little. Why would it need to be a solid bond? Would a edge bonding work like on a floating pergo floor? If the TDS caulking sticks to the teak why couldn't you use that as a bonding agent?
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:37 PM   #9
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Just trying to think outside the box a little. Why would it need to be a solid bond? Would a edge bonding work like on a floating pergo floor? If the TDS caulking sticks to the teak why couldn't you use that as a bonding agent?
Go for it. And let us know how it works out after a year or two.
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:45 PM   #10
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Yeah, teak as a core material.....never tried that due to the oil as Capt. Bill noted. I guess you'd also be encapsulating the caulk, no? I guess that might help with expansion and contraction. Hard to predict but it certainly is thinking out of the box.
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:48 PM   #11
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With the cost and trouble of redoing decks, worth a try. TDS may not be all that different to some other polyurethane sealant/adhesives, which cost less.
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:10 AM   #12
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How would you seal the edges to keep water from sneaking under the teak?
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Old 08-04-2016, 03:03 AM   #13
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Why would bonding be an issue? The teak is bonded to a glass deck now; even if screws are also used, there is still a bonding coating as well. If it works under the teak, it should work on top surely? Would it be wise to remove the caulk and sand flat first?
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Old 08-04-2016, 06:48 AM   #14
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Almost all TT do not have real "teak decks" they have a thin teak overlay , usually stuck on as an option ,to a plywood deck structure with a thin GRP over coating..

This teak paint job is very pretty but it is a huge danger to the underlying deck the boat was built with.

The simplest repair is a roofing shovel to put the overlay in the dumpster and a couple of layers of GRP to seal and stiffen the usually soft deck .

If the teak deck look is important gluing on teak like decking looks fine.
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Old 08-04-2016, 06:57 AM   #15
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Might be worth a try. Not sure how long it would last . Teak decks are installed in individual strips . They expand and contract on their own separately and the caulk between helps with the expansion and contraction . It might work . I would probably sand the teak flat and acetone it right before bonding the FRP sheet to dry out any teak oil that will be on the surface .
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:49 AM   #16
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I use lots of the fiberglass wall covering stuff (available at the Despot) for all kinds of stuff that are not walls. I sand the nubbles off the finish side for good bonding and I inevitably use the backside, after sanding, for the 'show' side. It paints perfectly well. Examples: shower ceiling; lining the under-sink cabinet where grunge, leaks and spilled soaps collect; non-structural patches; the roof surface and window detail on a Little Free Library; pop-in window shades on the sailboat; custom electric box covers (where the stock ones would be ugly).

This stuff is basically gelcoat with glass fiber reinforcing. It's pretty weak and has a really poor resin-'glass ratio and the 'glass fiber is basically 'chop' - unoriented short lengths. It's only about 1/16" thick - not counting the nubbles.

I think this stuff would be a terrible choice for use under foot, particularly without a decent bond to the substrate. I think this stuff would be an adequate choice for fiberglass wall repair where you would despair at the work involved to get a decent-looking finish. I think this stuff would be an adequate choice for finishing plywood panels presuming the bond was something good, like epoxy.

Bonding to 30-year-old Teak is not much of a problem. Bonding new Teak to fiberglass decks is not much of a problem, either, as many of us have noticed. Ditto gluing Teak to Teak or other wood species, presuming appropriate glues and control of differential expansion and contraction. Ditto sealing new or old Teak, presuming appropriate sealers.

Covering Teak decks in fiberglass is certainly do-able; but I would use adequately-reinforced 'glass sheets, not wall covering. Coating Teak decks in epoxy is certainly do-able, too. A marina buddy epoxy-coated his whole laid Teak deck and the house, too, on his 1963 Hinckley B-40. I don't know the details of the actual material, epoxy is not normally UV resistant, but there are plenty of epoxy-based exterior industrial coatings.

Pic: the roof and gable surfaces are the Home Despot frp. The windows are Home Despot Lexan sheet. The window details, arches and all, are Home Despot frp. The basic structural panels are pressure-treated plywood. All glue and laminating frp is epoxy. Glue holding the frp to the Lexan is cyanoacrylate (Krazy Glue). Paint is exterior-grade latex and sign-grade acrylic.
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:10 PM   #17
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This stuff is basically gelcoat with glass fiber reinforcing. It's pretty weak and has a really poor resin-'glass ratio and the 'glass fiber is basically 'chop' - unoriented short lengths. It's only about 1/16" thick - not counting the nubbles..
If we are still talking Home Depot, then the product is actually fiber reinforced PVC, not polyester. Epoxy bonding is questionable, Polyester bonding ain't gonna happen. The stuff is also somewhat brittle and will fracture unless the substrate is near perfect (ever seen a perfect boat ?).

It's a great product but not for this application. I have used it to cover all the plywood bulkheads in Our New Boat.
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:50 PM   #18
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"ever seen a perfect boat ?"

Sure, as has almost every boat owner I've known.
Interestingly enough, they always seem to be 2' bigger, AND/OR owned by someone else

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Old 08-04-2016, 01:19 PM   #19
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Boatpoker, the stuff I buy at the Despot is definitely polyester-'glass. Nubbly on the intended show side and dull, flat on the intended black. Smells like polyester when sawn or sanded, epoxys perfectly well. Here's the stuff at the Despot: 4 ft. x 8 ft. White .090 FRP Wall Board-MFTF12IXA480009600 - The Home Depot Lowes sells it under the trade name Sequentia: Shop Sequentia 48-in x 8-ft Embossed White Fiberglass Reinforced Wall Panel at Lowes.com I've never seen it in anything but white, but apparently there are lots of colors (or, should I say 'colours'? {lots of Canadian cousins and classmates}).

You're quite right to say that PVC won't accept being glued with epoxy (for long) and there certainly are PVC and other plastic wall covering products.
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:45 PM   #20
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Boatpoker, the stuff I buy at the Despot is definitely polyester-'glass. Nubbly on the intended show side and dull, flat on the intended black. Smells like polyester when sawn or sanded, epoxys perfectly well. Here's the stuff at the Despot: 4 ft. x 8 ft. White .090 FRP Wall Board-MFTF12IXA480009600 - The Home Depot Lowes sells it under the trade name Sequentia: Shop Sequentia 48-in x 8-ft Embossed White Fiberglass Reinforced Wall Panel at Lowes.com I've never seen it in anything but white, but apparently there are lots of colors (or, should I say 'colours'? {lots of Canadian cousins and classmates}).

You're quite right to say that PVC won't accept being glued with epoxy (for long) and there certainly are PVC and other plastic wall covering products.
I would have preferred polyester because I know how to adhere it but at Home Depot in Canada all they had was the PVC stuff that comes in white, grey and tan.

PS. You don't have to say "colours" but you do have to spell it that way
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