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Old 05-10-2014, 12:53 PM   #21
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Just checked the brochure that came from the original owner, and the boot stripe appears to be where it should be.

Having the extra fuel tank makes sense for us because the more remote fuel stops around here run out on a semi-regular basis, and we intend to poke our noses into areas well off the inside passage.

One quick fix would be to put something like two long, flexible, 26 gallon Plastimo water tanks in the storage areas under each side of the forward berth. That would move about 430 pounds forward which might counter the weight of the dinghy and outboard hanging off the very back edge of the swim grid.

Moving water jugs around is a great idea..will do once we get our storm anchor and rode, which will add about 500 pounds on the bow (joke!).
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Old 05-10-2014, 01:48 PM   #22
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Taking note of where the boat lives, the use of a long all chain rode is still a prime suggestion particularly if not already on the boat. For people who do not boat and anchor in the Northwest that much chain may seem like unnecessary weight. Since it is a highly desirable addition to a NW cruising boat in of itself the added effect on trim just comes with the package.
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Old 05-10-2014, 04:29 PM   #23
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The biggest advantage that all chain would have in Murray's neck of the pond is the reduced swinging radius in mild weather. He would probably be fine strength wise w 1/4" HT chain. I'd prefer 5/16" but to get a fairly long rode 1/4" would be much lighter. One could attach a length of nylon line to extent the rode at times in deep water or use the splice and have a combination rode. And w the splice a shorter length of 5/16" chain has more appeal.
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Old 05-11-2014, 03:49 PM   #24
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I used bags of sand, masonry sand, made them abt 40lbs each for ease of handling.
They mold themselves to the bilge and dont move. In place for over 25 years.
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Old 05-11-2014, 06:32 PM   #25
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I used bags of sand, masonry sand, made them abt 40lbs each for ease of handling.
They mold themselves to the bilge and dont move. In place for over 25 years.
Great idea, Chuck. My Admiral says whenever she's too long away from the beach, she'd have something to put her toes into and pretend.
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Old 05-11-2014, 11:00 PM   #26
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I used bags of sand, masonry sand, made them abt 40lbs each for ease of handling.
They mold themselves to the bilge and dont move. In place for over 25 years.
Great idea. I'll start with the 20 small sand bags that hold down the edges of the winter cover tarp. Best part is, I won't have to haul them from home to the boat every spring and fall

The all chain rode (with mandatory new windlass) solution would siphon too many 'yacht dollars' from this seasons intended improvements.
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Old 05-11-2014, 11:02 PM   #27
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The all chain rode (with mandatory new windlass) solution would siphon too many 'yacht dollars' from this seasons intended improvements.
Take one step at a time.
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Old 05-11-2014, 11:08 PM   #28
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Take one step at a time.
Yes, I agree, and I'd go with the forward water tanks - you can never have too much water when cruising, but the beauty of the for'd tank(s) being reserve tanks, is most of the time you are not emptying them, so not altering the trim, which as Ron mentioned, is the downside normally to using tanks in constant use to alter trim.
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:23 AM   #29
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Chain stored flat in a bilge will tend to rust if it gets wet at times.

The other reason to actually build a chain locker is the chain will come out , with no snarls .Chain that could get tumbled in a bilge can become an interesting knot.

Skeens and others give dimensions for chain lockers.
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Old 05-17-2014, 12:27 AM   #30
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Put the winter tarp weights plus a couple medium sized sea kayaking dry bags full of sand as far forward as I could. Probably came to a bit over 250lbs. Made a noticeable difference, and brought the boot stripe out of the water at the stern.
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:00 AM   #31
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Often varying the trim of the vessel will result in some unexpected consequences...such as sink maintains a puddle of water, shower only drains when everyone is on the bow, bilge pump sump dry but water forward in the bilge. I would check on those type of potential consequences before doing anything.
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:36 AM   #32
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Often varying the trim of the vessel will result in some unexpected consequences...such as sink maintains a puddle of water, shower only drains when everyone is on the bow, bilge pump sump dry but water forward in the bilge. I would check on those type of potential consequences before doing anything.
Thanks, I'll keep a 'weather eye' out for such things.

The low stern problem arose from previous owners who put an extra 40 gallon fuel tank in the lazarette, the addition of a swim grid, a Livingston fiberglass dinghy on weaver davits on the back edge of the swim grid, and then we put a 9.9hp kicker on the swim grid as well...that's a lot of weight hanging off the back end that Badger wasn't originally designed for.
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Old 05-19-2014, 12:50 PM   #33
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This was just am interesting thread until I filled up both my tanks for the first time.

Now I TOO, am heading in the stern.
Bow is about two inches above bottom paint, stern is about two inches below.

With my fat rear end, it's not that noticeable, so I will do absolutely nothing about it.
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:12 PM   #34
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I think everybody would agree a boat would suffer in heavy seas if it were out of trim.

How does one determine proper trim?

And is one state of trim best for all things? Probably not.

Where is TAD?
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:44 PM   #35
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Many factors go into developing the "desired trim" on any vessel. Handling, safety and economy should all be considered on each vessel. I find being light in the bow increases difficulty in maintaining a point and decreases the pivot point of my boat. I would suggest "Stability and Trim for the Ship's Officer" by John La Dage it has been my go to reference on the matter of longitudinal stability for some time now.
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