Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 07-13-2016, 11:08 AM   #41
Senior Member
 
ragin cajun's Avatar
 
City: Lafayette, LA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Miss Puddy
Vessel Model: 44' Nova
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 226
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebyu View Post
Ragin Cajun,
As the power cord receptacle (female) was bad at the boat (I assume from heat), what did the boat mounted plug look like? What did the back of the plug look like? (Where the boat wiring hooks to)
Back of plug on boat was fine w/ no discoloration around connections. I cleaned the prongs with scotch brite pad...not much to clean though.
__________________
Advertisement

ragin cajun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2016, 11:22 AM   #42
Guru
 
HopCar's Avatar


 
City: Miami Florida
Vessel Name: Possum
Vessel Model: Ellis 28
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,169
Since this thread has drifted into power cords, I'll throw in my two bits on that subject.

I've decided to switch to a Smart Plug inlet and plug on my boat. They are easier to plug in and out and they have a much bigger contact area. I think they are a lot less likely to overheat.
__________________

__________________
Parks Masterson
www.hopkins-carter.com
HopCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2016, 11:24 AM   #43
Senior Member
 
DeniseO30's Avatar
 
City: Bristol PA
Country: USA
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 137
post #24 repost

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeniseO30 View Post
Dehumidifiers and things like electric space heaters are made pretty well. But please, Always check the outlet and plug, they tend to heat up, GFCI can and should trip, but don't assume they will
If a boat is at a marina the assumption is someone is making at least a walk by of the boats, but again I 'd not assume.
Jus saying

if any plug or outlet is loose.. it's bad, at the end of it's usefulness. and time to replace. Yes shore30-50 amp power cords are expensive. darn shame they have molded on ends.
__________________
Retired HVAC, wooden boat aficionado & builder of smaller craft. NOT Josie the plumber!
DeniseO30 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2016, 12:10 PM   #44
Guru
 
BandB's Avatar
 
City: Fort Lauderdale
Country: USA
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 10,644
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeniseO30 View Post

if any plug or outlet is loose.. it's bad, at the end of it's usefulness. and time to replace. Yes shore30-50 amp power cords are expensive. darn shame they have molded on ends.
The ends can be replaced, but the problems most run across as mentioned through and through this thread is that the problem extends to the cord itself, it's entire length.
BandB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2016, 02:46 PM   #45
Guru
 
caltexflanc's Avatar
 
City: North Carolina for now
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Small Incentive
Vessel Model: Boston Whaler 130 Sport
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,460
A good point was made above, that if the receptacles on the boat or dock are bad, then the new cord's plugs will be short-lived as well. I made a habit of regularly grabbing my plugs and the cable right behind them to feel for heat, especially when operating at high load. They should be cool to the touch with no trace of warmth to your hand.
__________________
George

"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
caltexflanc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2016, 02:48 PM   #46
Guru
 
BandB's Avatar
 
City: Fort Lauderdale
Country: USA
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 10,644
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeniseO30 View Post
why do people here keep telling people the things they already know here? (guessing they only read the last post not the whole thread)

it's like an echo chamber LOL Not you BB.. in general.

funny, some people look at me strange when I say; "Do you know there there is a marine electrical code?"

It's not pretty when a whole line burns....
Guessing the same reason newcomers arrive and immediately start criticizing the way people in here are....and from your most recent post, I couldn't tell what you knew....sorry to have provided you redundant information since I can see what pain it caused you.
BandB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2016, 10:30 PM   #47
Veteran Member
 
City: Mary Esther, FL
Country: USA
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 45
We leave both units on and turn it up to 76-78. Alternatively you can press the heat and cold on most units to turn on the Humidity function denotes by HU and the unit will cycle twice a day to remove humidity.
BlindHog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2016, 07:15 AM   #48
Senior Member
 
City: Houma, Louisiana
Country: USA
Vessel Name: M/V LUNASEA
Vessel Model: 45ft Bluewater Coastal
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 347
The problem I have is that the water pump runs 24/7 not just when the compressor is on, is that when water is needed. How can I get the pump to only run when the compressor is on?
kartracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2016, 08:18 AM   #49
TF Site Team
 
Larry M's Avatar
 
City: JAX, FL
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Hobo
Vessel Model: Krogen 42-120
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,103
You may need to add a pump relay/trigger box. It tells the pump when to turn on. One trigger box can control several units. I'd check with your AC manufacturer.
Larry M is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2016, 08:27 AM   #50
Senior Member
 
DeniseO30's Avatar
 
City: Bristol PA
Country: USA
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 137
Quote:
Originally Posted by kartracer View Post
The problem I have is that the water pump runs 24/7 not just when the compressor is on, is that when water is needed. How can I get the pump to only run when the compressor is on?
Connect the pump in parallel with the fan on the unit. Check with mfg, if it's new may void warranty. There are other ways with time on/off relays. as Larry mentioned. You could also run it in parallel with compressor but the little pumps don't draw very much power so maybe it's unnecessary to begin with
__________________
Retired HVAC, wooden boat aficionado & builder of smaller craft. NOT Josie the plumber!
DeniseO30 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2016, 08:43 AM   #51
TF Site Team
 
Larry M's Avatar
 
City: JAX, FL
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Hobo
Vessel Model: Krogen 42-120
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,103
Here's a discussion/explanation that may help about pump relays/trigger boxes.

Marine A/C Pumps & Pump Relays - marine-ac.com marine-ac.com
Larry M is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2016, 07:28 AM   #52
Guru
 
Pgitug's Avatar
 
City: Punta Gorda, fl
Country: Usa
Vessel Name: Escapade
Vessel Model: Nordic Tug 37 2002
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 784
Quote:
Originally Posted by BandB View Post
The ends can be replaced, but the problems most run across as mentioned through and through this thread is that the problem extends to the cord itself, it's entire length.

Inspect your cord plugs at each use. If they are starting to appear discolored around the plug pins, take a picture of the discoloration and send it to Marinco. The cables are guaranteed. They replaced my cable and the plug on my boat for free. Cable and plug were eight years old.
Pgitug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2016, 07:04 PM   #53
Guru
 
sbu22's Avatar
 
City: New Orleans
Country: US
Vessel Name: Panache
Vessel Model: Viking 43 Double Cabin '76
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 506
This kinda moved to an SP cord discussion. I used to run the AC perpetually, but the power bills became burdensome. Wound up runnung a carpet dryer type fan 24/7 and securing the AC. The configuration of my boat is such that I have a pretty straight shot from the V-berth to the aft cabin. Fan lives on the deck in the aft doorway of the V-berth and projects through the galley, saloon, and still gives sensible air movement in the aft stateroom.

Off the boat, the fan runs and no AC. Takes about 45 minutes for both ACs to cool the interior to the high 70s on even the hottest days when we come aboard. Zero mold issues, moving air is the enemy of mold, regardless of RH. YMMV.
sbu22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2016, 08:22 PM   #54
Guru
 
psneeld's Avatar
 
City: Avalon, NJ
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Freedom
Vessel Model: Albin 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 14,252
The reason I think many 30A cord ends char is because many boats are trying to pull too much power and a little corrosion does them in.


That's why I upgraded to a 50 amp cord and system. I have seen 50A services char, but it's rare and usually it's the dock post more so than the oat end.

Even if I didn't need the 50A system but occasionally (and anyone with a boat running multiple A/C units or space heaters pretty well fits that category), the 50A plugs are so much more robust they alone I feel are a huge safety improvement.
__________________

psneeld is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:43 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012