Source for white, grooved ceiling panels?

[Airstream345]

Looking for a source for the high gloss, white, single grove panels (like what’s pictured).

Coming up with lots of big box “bead board” paneling but it’s usually fiberboard and I’m worried about it holding up in the marine environment. I’m also looking for grooved or v-grooved not bead board.

The photo is what’s installed in our head, it feels and sounds like plastic?

Hoping the collective wisdom of TF can steer me toward a source.

Thanks in advance!

 

[O C Diver]

Don't know about what is in your boat, but mine was clearly made by the builder. The groves stop an inch or 2 before they reach the light, vent, grab bar, sky light, etc. Near as I can tell, it's 4 X 8 sheets of material that were laid out, and the grooves were planned and cut with a router against a clamped straight edge.

Ted

 

[Mikala]

https://www.amazon.com/Parkland-Pla...efix=vinyl+tongue+and+groove+paneling&sr=8-15

 

[Mikala]

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Vinyl/Tongue-and-Groove/N-5yc1vZ1z0p2q6Z1z0vb2m

 

[Scratchnsaw]

I made my own . Most of the panels with the grooves in them is fiberboard backing, which turns to pulp and powder in short order. This is white cedar or juniper a spin off. Its 1/4" x 3 " and glued to close cell foam. But if you have a solid core overhead you can glue it too.

You can use most any wood though and do the same procedure. I ran the pieces, planed them and then ran a 1/4" round over bit on the edges , which simulates T & G construction.

But to deal with sweating that you can get without foam for insulation you can glue blueboard foam to the cabin roof and then glue the strips to the foam. You will need furring strips the same thickness as the foam located at say 12 inches with the foam filling the distance so that you have a solid backing..

My beams are structural with my foam core and liteweight construction. I primed them and then awlgripped the faces of them.

 

[Airstream345]

That’s spectacular! I can make them but would prefer to purchase if possible.

 

[Westiculo]

We used nickel-gap shiplap planks from Home Depot. I understand that you don't want the beadboard that Mikala posted. We could not find any decent shiplap paneling either (except from boutique places that costed a crapload). All the readily-available stuff was hardboard - as mentioned by scratchnsaw - which basically dissolves in water.

The shiplap planks are 9/16" pine and primed on both sides, which is great for moisture resistance. It's also kind-of good because -god forbid- you get a leak in the ceiling, it drips down between the planks, so you know exactly where it came in. You can also pull down a single plank if you need to get in somewhere for access.

 

[Vadim]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda...PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-202033620-_-202033618-_-N

 

[Mako]

I made my own...

But to deal with sweating that you can get without foam for insulation you can glue blueboard foam to the cabin roof and then glue the strips to the foam. You will need furring strips the same thickness as the foam located at say 12 inches with the foam filling the distance so that you have a solid backing...

Very nice. People underestimate the importance of an insulated cabin top, even if it's an open cabin, just to knock down the radiated heat from the sun, and as you say, to cut down condensation.

 

[Airstream345]

Wow, great suggestions so far, thank you...I really like the look of the nickel gap (and the name, hadn't heard that before). I also like the idea of insulating the cabin roof...we've been discussing how an "over frame" headliner would really modernize and brighten the salon vs the current in-between frame we have now). These picture confirm that for us. We also could run more modern LED lighting, etc. so lot's to like here.

I'm getting that feeling that I may be making my own based on these pic alone. Well done!

 

[Cigatoo]

I made my own . Most of the panels with the grooves in them is fiberboard backing, which turns to pulp and powder in short order. This is white cedar or juniper a spin off. Its 1/4" x 3 " and glued to close cell foam. But if you have a solid core overhead you can glue it too.

You can use most any wood though and do the same procedure. I ran the pieces, planed them and then ran a 1/4" round over bit on the edges , which simulates T & G construction.

But to deal with sweating that you can get without foam for insulation you can glue blueboard foam to the cabin roof and then glue the strips to the foam. You will need furring strips the same thickness as the foam located at say 12 inches with the foam filling the distance so that you have a solid backing..

My beams are structural with my foam core and liteweight construction. I primed them and then awlgripped the faces of them.

Very very nice. I am guessing a little “ professional” knowledge lies within.

 

[Westiculo]

Very nice. People underestimate the importance of an insulated cabin top, even if it's an open cabin, just to knock down the radiated heat from the sun, and as you say, to cut down condensation.

Agreed,

Same pic during construction. Reflectix then pink foam. We've been in there a couple times for wiring stuff since installation in both winter and summer (boston, so it gets wicked humid too) - no condensation. There's enough layers of stuff - wood then foam then reflectix - that there's not enough air flow to bring much moisture through and cause condensation. The only place we do get it is against the hull in the spring when the air is moist and the water is still really cold.

 

[bshanafelt]

I replaced the entire ceiling on the boat with a polystyrene product.

I think I found them at Home depot 10 years ago. Easy to cut with a chop saw & they interlock very well to each other

These are t & g boards that come with a white, semi-gloss finish.

My ceilings/roof deck is based on laminated cross beams on about 12" centers. These provide a 2" cavity for wiring & insulation.

As shown in this pic, the plastic boards are fitted between the beams, then wooden trim battens hold them in place.

I also put a dab of clear caulking on the first(starboard) and the last(port) boards in each of the runs to stabilize the entire run.

If I need access to the headliner area, I simply disassemble the jigsaw puzzle for the portion I need.


Was an easy project & since these live on a ceiling surface, there is very little wear or scratching.

 

[Mako]

...we've been discussing how an "over frame" headliner would really modernize and brighten the salon vs the current in-between frame we have now). These picture confirm that for us. We also could run more modern LED lighting, etc. so lot's to like here.

Yes good idea with a more modern look. You have lots of choices for materials to use, but I would suggest some sort of removable panel attachment so that you can run future wires for lights, internet, CCTV cameras, smoke detectors, etc.