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Old 09-23-2010, 03:23 PM   #1
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Sound proofing

*I love my diesel. Cat 3208 natural but she sure does clatter a bit.

*I see in the pictures of many engine rooms with the white ceiling tiles with the little holes in them, on the ceiling as well as bulkheads.

Question. How effective is this stuff at sound deadening?* what about fire retardant?

Any othe sound proofing you have tried?

SD
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:42 PM   #2
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RE: Sound proofing

My boat has/had the tiles with the little holes in. It is basically fiber-board: great for pushing thumb-tacks into, but it holds moisture and is difficult to clean. Like you, I wanted to quieten things down a bit. I started with the removable floor panels because they are easier to work on. Each pannel is a thin flat box around 4"thick. When I removed the fiberboard with the holes, I found a thin sheet of junk plywood and 3"of styrofoam! I replaced this with layers of heavy foam sheeting, and finished off with a layer of acoustic sandwich foam which has a shiny foil outer skin. The noise reduction is significant. The rest of the engineroom will be much harder due to access problems.
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:08 PM   #3
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RE: Sound proofing

Check these guys out: http://www.soundown.com/
They have the best line of products, but aren't cheap. Reading over their stuff may give you some ideas as well.
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:09 PM   #4
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RE: Sound proofing

I have had good success with this,
http://tinyurl.com/2df5uwt
Chuck
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Old 09-23-2010, 10:45 PM   #5
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RE: Sound proofing

I have done most of mine with the 1" thick foam with the mylar facing. I did the hatches first. Made the biggest difference as they vibrate more than the rest of the sole. Also the hatch edges, unless they meet tightly with the support , allow an amazing amount of noise through the small slit between hatch and hole.
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Old 09-24-2010, 04:02 AM   #6
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RE: Sound proofing

I Second Soundown ,

their 2 inch thick material with 2 lb per sq ft of lead , will quiet even a Detroit.

There IS spray on material for the places where sheet goods would be hard to install.

About $100 a gal, and it needs to be thick to work.

Soundown also has a rug material & underlayment that also works well.
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:26 AM   #7
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RE: Sound proofing

Quote:
C lectric wrote:

I have done most of mine with the 1" thick foam with the mylar facing. I did the hatches first. Made the biggest difference as they vibrate more than the rest of the sole. Also the hatch edges, unless they meet tightly with the support , allow an amazing amount of noise through the small slit between hatch and hole.
Surprisingly true. I have rugs over my hatch covers into the engine room and even exposing one seam will allow a noticeable amount of noise into the saloon.

*
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:29 AM   #8
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RE: Sound proofing

Quote:
C lectric wrote:

I have done most of mine with the 1" thick foam with the mylar facing. I did the hatches first. Made the biggest difference as they vibrate more than the rest of the sole. Also the hatch edges, unless they meet tightly with the support , allow an amazing amount of noise through the small slit between hatch and hole.
Did you attach it with mechanical fasteners or some sort of glue?

SD

*
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:36 AM   #9
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RE: Sound proofing

Quote:
Capn Chuck wrote:

I have had good success with this,
http://tinyurl.com/2df5uwt
Chuck
Same question capn. How did you fasten it?

*
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Old 09-25-2010, 06:23 PM   #10
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Sound proofing

SD,

We also used Soundown, 2" thick with the barrier and mylar face. I attached it from the ER using 2.5" screws with fender washers. It reduced the engine noise in the saloon significantly.

Rob
37' Sedan

-- Edited by Datenight on Saturday 25th of September 2010 06:25:14 PM
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:13 AM   #11
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RE: Sound proofing

Yup, I should have thought of that question, fastening.

I originally used the aluminum pins which you then press the foam over and nice domed clips and washers to secure the foam. Nice but it got expensive.

I now use a flat head #6 x 1.5" screw with a LARGE 1/4 fender washer and a smaller flat washer which catches the screw head and the fender washer. Does a fine job and a lot less expensive.
I chose the lenght of the screw to secure the foam without penetrating the cabin sole.

I was leery of the glue particularily over top of the engine.

There are plastic pin and washer setups that I have seen and used a few of but I'm mostly done now. The racket is down to a level I can live with and we can talk over easily.
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Old 09-26-2010, 04:34 PM   #12
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RE: Sound proofing

Quote:
skipperdude wrote:

*
Capn Chuck wrote:

I have had good success with this,
http://tinyurl.com/2df5uwt
Chuck
Same question capn. How did you fasten it?

*

*

SD, A combination 3M spray adheasive and fasteners with fender washers. Chuck

*
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