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Old 09-05-2016, 01:06 PM   #121
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In case anyone is curious,the ratcheting tool I use is an ideal #30-506.It is a frame only tool,and there are die sets that are purchased separately depending on your needs from everything to rg-6 cable ,to data terminations,and of course different size stakons.Great tool,but it is a pro model.There are cheaper versions available,but I don't not know how well they work.
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Old 09-05-2016, 01:26 PM   #122
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West Marine (my principal source) had many Smart Plug bits and pieces several yeas ago. Now they catalog just a couple. They must be a "hard sell" for WM.
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:16 PM   #123
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West Marine (my principal source) had many Smart Plug bits and pieces several yeas ago. Now they catalog just a couple. They must be a "hard sell" for WM.
The Smart Plug system is arguably better than the twistlock, but the twistlock is the standard of the industry and has been for many years. Most folks are reluctant to spend money to replace something that works, is a standard and is available from several manufacturers with something that performs the same function, but is non-standard and available from only one manufacturer.

If you want to design a "better" product, it needs to be compatible with the standard product or it will have a hard time being accepted.
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:42 PM   #124
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The Smart Plug system is arguably better than the twistlock, but the twistlock is the standard of the industry and has been for many years. ......

If you want to design a "better" product, it needs to be compatible with the standard product or it will have a hard time being accepted.
It aint necessarily so!

Many Years ago a patent was issued for a 3 legged stool which was the standard for many, many years. When threatened by a competing 3 leg stool, the original inventor went back to the drawing board and updated his patent with a clearly superior design. It took awhile to catch on but as we've come to learn, it's been quite successful! It may take awhile for the SmartPlug to gain the market share that the 38 year old design presently enjoys but it will happen!
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:45 PM   #125
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That was great!!
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:31 PM   #126
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But he lost the inherent stability of the three legs
on an uneven surface.

Ted
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:01 PM   #127
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Although many use these terms incorrectly, because it seems to be all relitive to what you are used to, they are defined by IEEE for equipment desginations as"

LV - 600V or less
MV 601V-69,000V ( Changed a few years ago)
HV - 69,001V-230,000V
EHV 230,001V-800,000V
UHV >800,000

What I do, all day every day.
You stand corrected.
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What kind of boat is that?
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:37 PM   #128
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again,equipment designations,like I said.Manufacturers of equipment,and the rules that govern their installations are two completely different beasts.I was not quoting the manufacturers,I was quoting the designations in the electrical installation industry.I am not doubting you know your industry intimately,as I do not.Please don't doubt mine.Different laws,tasks ,and standards.
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:18 PM   #129
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the United States 2011 National Electrical Code (NEC) is the standard regulating most electrical installations. There are no definitions relating to high voltage. The NECŪ covers voltages 600 volts and less and that over 600 volts. The National Electrical Manufacturer's Association (NEMA) defines high voltage as over 100kV to 230kV. British Standard BS 7671:2008 defines high voltage as any voltage difference between conductors that is higher than 1000 V AC or 1500 V ripple-free DC, or any voltage difference between a conductor and Earth that is higher than 600 V AC or 900 V ripple-free DC.
Electricians may only be licensed for particular voltage classes, in some jurisdictions.[1] For example, an electrical license for a specialized sub-trade such as installation of HVAC systems, fire alarm systems, closed circuit television systems may be authorized to install systems energized up to only 30 volts between conductors, and may not be permitted to work on mains-voltage circuits. The general public may consider household mains circuits (100–250 V AC), which carry the highest voltages they normally encounter, to be high voltage.


This is from Wikipedia.The iec or nema doesn't govern the installation,only the manufacturing,which you are quoting,no argument there.The nec governs one of my liscense requirements,and the nyc building dept governs my other.There are three levels within that.Low voltage installer(less than 50 volts to ground)master electricians license,600volt or less,and in order to work over 600v,you need a high tension certification.That certification is issued by osha. If you notice in the first line,the nec splits its rules at 600v.
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:27 PM   #130
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How high a voltage should the average boat owner be allowed to work on?
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:32 PM   #131
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How high can you jump?
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:34 PM   #132
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It aint necessarily so!

Many Years ago a patent was issued for a 3 legged stool which was the standard for many, many years. When threatened by a competing 3 leg stool, the original inventor went back to the drawing board and updated his patent with a clearly superior design. It took awhile to catch on but as we've come to learn, it's been quite successful! It may take awhile for the SmartPlug to gain the market share that the 38 year old design presently enjoys but it will happen!
Cute, but I don't see any evidence of it happening. I don't see them being stocked at West Marine stores.

So if you spend a couple hundred dollars to "upgrade" your boat to the smart plug system and you are cruising and damage or lose your shore power cord, you can't borrow one and you can't buy one locally, you have to order one. You could carry a spare but unlike a standard cord, you can't connect two smart plug cords together to make a longer cord. You'll need to carry a standard cord just in case you need an extension.
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:34 PM   #133
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The Smart Plug system is arguably better than the twistlock, but the twistlock is the standard of the industry and has been for many years. Most folks are reluctant to spend money to replace something that works, is a standard and is available from several manufacturers with something that performs the same function, but is non-standard and available from only one manufacturer.

If you want to design a "better" product, it needs to be compatible with the standard product or it will have a hard time being accepted.

ABYC controls the boat end of the shore power cable. NEC and NFPA control the dock side of the cable. NEMA would consider approving the smart plug design if they gave up patent rights.

Marinco has employees on both the NEC committees and the ABYC Electrical PTC.

And you guys wonder why many recreational marine parts both suck and are expensive.

That's why testing labs like ETL are stealing ULs business on many fronts.

How's that for better and safer?
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:36 PM   #134
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How high can you jump?
At my age, not very high.
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:43 AM   #135
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me either,have a nice day
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:34 AM   #136
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Any electrical supply will carry it.Just remember,the male part of the plug only,and as thin of a layer as possible.Also,wear gloves,this stuff is really hard to remove,and will not come out of clothes.
What about the female side of the shore power connections? Can I just spray some Boeshield T-9 in there every couple months and hope for the best?
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:45 AM   #137
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cant hurt,boeshield is a product similar to wd-40.I think it is more designed to lubricate,but it seems to be helpful for many here,so why not.
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:31 AM   #138
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my solution, thank you hopcar

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Old 09-06-2016, 02:48 PM   #139
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my solution, thank you hopcar

Reread post #132.
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Old 09-06-2016, 03:02 PM   #140
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I read it Wes, I appreciate your viewpoint. For me the comfort level it's brings me is worth the price of admission.
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