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Old 09-07-2016, 04:09 PM   #201
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tadhana,as to marinas,they do fall under the scope of the Nec.Article 555-1,and 2.To be brief,and I quote-this article covers the installation of wiring and equipment in the areas comprised of fixed or floating piers,wharfs,docks and other areas in marinas,etc. Part two reads wiring and equipment in marinas shall comply with this article,and also with the applicable provisions of other articles of this code.Basically,everything at the marina,including fuel,except the boats,which is then becomes abyc compliant . The only reason I stated prior about the fixed wiring issue is that abyc doesn't write the original text to there standards,they use the nec codes as there starting point.They tweak some of them to be more applicable to the marine,and boating needs,thats why they are called standards,not codes(so I was told)Do they have a different interpretation,maybe,but I put that disclaimer in there,about myself,and for others to seek further clarification.The abyc standards that I know(not many)were taken verbatim form the nec,no changes.
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Old 09-07-2016, 05:02 PM   #202
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Thankfully boats don't strictly follow land based regs....apples and oranges.

Hardwiring your glendenning at boat side makes perfect sense....and I have never heard of a fire started from Hardwiring vesus crappy plugs.

Any rule against it shows total lack of common sense as well as no knowledge of what boating is...when and if those rules ever apply, I hope I am long gone as a boater, because beauracrats, not boaters with brains will be running the show.
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Old 09-07-2016, 05:15 PM   #203
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I'm not worried about finding a replacement as I will simply have a spare aboard!
That wasn't even complicated was it?
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Old 09-07-2016, 05:17 PM   #204
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Bruce...
I thought your ref to the Compass article was worth repeating given the # of posts.

If you have 2 -30A cords/inlets consider having a panel w a transfer sw to connect both sides to one cord. Our Mainship is set up this way and I can run anything I choose w only one cord attached... I just have to manage load to keep it at 20-25 A when using one cord.
Some lications especially when traveling I may only have access to one 30A outlet.

I can provide more info if necessary and you are interested.
I did the same when designing my electrical system.
I bought a Leviton 30 amp two pole switch.
It joins both hots and both neutrals from each cord together.
The switch is actually a locking key switch. I keep the key on a wire right next to the switch, prevents it from being accidentally switched.

It is never a problem. even if I plugged into a split phase 240/120vac plug, the breaker would trip on a direct short. Our marina has free 30 amp power, single plug only. So this way I can power the entire boat.

Other thing, turn off your boat main breaker on the unused 30 amp side, so the unused 30 amp connector socket is not energized, otherwise it will be live. I use a GE breakered weatherproof box, I put in 2 30 amp dual pole breakers, and I can lock the door shut.
The box never gets wet. It is about 6 feet from the shore power sockets.

I got it off Amazon years ago for $6, good price.

https://store.leviton.com/collection...nt=18216233219
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Old 09-07-2016, 05:55 PM   #205
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Seen this happen at a home,when the power system was restored,the transformer was being backfed,blew it right off the pole,when they bucked.Not popular with the neighbors as they were in a power outage situation again,and I believe the municipality,in conjunjunction with the power authority imposed a ten thousand dollar fine,for damages,and unlicensed work.Ouch!! I was contracted to do the correct job.Just about everything was fried.
Seems like all you'd have to do to prevent that is to turn off the main breaker feeding the house. Then the generator couldn't back feed to the transformer.
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Old 09-07-2016, 06:02 PM   #206
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absolutely,just missed that one step,and a costly one.
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Old 09-07-2016, 06:20 PM   #207
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Most Monk 36 have two 30A inlets, one for the air conditioning/heating system, the other for everything else, each has it's separate panel. I have seen at least one owner who used a cord like this FURRION Y-Adapter 2X30A Connector To 30A Male | West Marine worked fine as long as he limited the total consumption to less than 30 Amps. One Aircon unit drew 15 amps.
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:08 PM   #208
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Corrosion is not the big enemy of copper inhibiting its ability to conduct electricity,oxidation is,which boeshield makes no claim on.T

[COLOR=#252525][FONT=sans-serif]

Unoxidized copper wire (left) and oxidized copper wire (right).

...copper will suffer from oxidation,regardless of the environment,as it attempts to return to its natural state.The marine environment just complicates it. Thanks
Where exactly is the copper you refer to in the boat AC system???
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:16 PM   #209
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Where exactly is the copper you refer to in the boat AC system???
not sure what you mean I referred to. went back thru my posts,no mention of ac anywhere - alternating current,air conditioning?
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:19 PM   #210
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I did the same when designing my electrical system...

Other thing, turn off your boat main breaker on the unused 30 amp side, so the unused 30 amp connector socket is not energized, otherwise it will be live. I use a GE breakered weatherproof box, I put in 2 30 amp dual pole breakers, and I can lock the door shut.
The box never gets wet. It is about 6 feet from the shore power sockets.
The proper AC distribution panel will have a transfer Sw to combine the load side and diconnect the #2 inlet.

Same w/ an AC panel w/ a generator - it will allow feeding the panel from Gen or Cord / inlet(s) but not both and it prevents the backfeed to the unused source.

Diagram of my panel that includes both features mentioned above attached - using separate Switches and manually switching is asking for trouble
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 1003154 REV2 120V Panel.pdf (176.0 KB, 13 views)
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:23 PM   #211
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Where exactly is the copper you refer to in the boat AC system???
ok,I found it-air conditioning.On the west coast,most buyers chose diesel heat,not air conditioning.For example,north pacific yachts offers an east coast package(with ac,no heat)or a west coast package(the reverse)there is no need for a second 30 amp shore power with the heat option.So in the factory,all the other 110v needs are prewired thru one shore power,making them identical for east coast/west coast,then a second is added for an east coast order.Saves the builder money.
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:23 PM   #212
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"I did the same when designing my electrical system.
I bought a Leviton 30 amp two pole switch.
It joins both hots and both neutrals from each cord together.
The switch is actually a locking key switch. I keep the key on a wire right next to the switch, prevents it from being accidentally switched."

"Other thing, turn off your boat main breaker on the unused 30 amp side, so the unused 30 amp connector socket is not energized, otherwise it will be live."


Our boats came with a parallel switch that allowed the use of two or more lines of loads (breakers) off of one or more lines of feeds (power cords) by just a turn of the switch. These switches did not allow any unused prongs to be energized nor was it a 'problem' if someone happened to turn the switch unexpectedly.
Why would anyone accept a situation that offered anything less safe or easy?
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:36 PM   #213
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not sure what you mean I referred to. went back thru my posts,no mention of ac anywhere - alternating current,air conditioning?
I thought this whole thread was about Shore Power? That is AC current.

Where in the shore power system is the copper several have talked about protecting w/ various sprays etc?
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:50 PM   #214
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I was responding to a question about why there are two separate 30 amp shore power,instead of a single 50 amp. As regards to the spray,both the plug ends,and the wire terminals,if accessible,of the shore power would benefit,that would also include the disconnect breaker connections on the boat side,or any place you can get at copper connections that are not sealed for that matter.Additional means of anti-corrosive,oxidation,or whatever terms everyone feels appropriate,certainly would be a big benefit in the marine environment,even if they were already treated,like tinning.
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:56 PM   #215
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I thought this whole thread was about Shore Power? That is AC current.





air conditioning uses ac,not dc,supplied under this discussion by shore power.Or thru your inverter from the genny.not gettingyour question,sorry it is late.
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Old 09-07-2016, 10:37 PM   #216
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I thought this whole thread was about Shore Power? That is AC current.

Where in the shore power system is the copper several have talked about protecting w/ various sprays etc?
The wires in most shore cords are not tinned.
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Old 09-08-2016, 02:28 AM   #217
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What`s the best color for a shorepower cord?
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Old 09-08-2016, 06:48 AM   #218
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Black, even the yellow ones wind up that way.
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Old 09-08-2016, 07:12 AM   #219
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"I did the same when designing my electrical system.
I bought a Leviton 30 amp two pole switch.
It joins both hots and both neutrals from each cord together.
The switch is actually a locking key switch. I keep the key on a wire right next to the switch, prevents it from being accidentally switched."

"Other thing, turn off your boat main breaker on the unused 30 amp side, so the unused 30 amp connector socket is not energized, otherwise it will be live."


Our boats came with a parallel switch that allowed the use of two or more lines of loads (breakers) off of one or more lines of feeds (power cords) by just a turn of the switch. These switches did not allow any unused prongs to be energized nor was it a 'problem' if someone happened to turn the switch unexpectedly.
Why would anyone accept a situation that offered anything less safe or easy?
The way I do that join is safe and easy, I have the main breakers under cover and locked down with a key. It would take a deliberate action to decide to electrocute yourself by unlocking the cover, turning on the breaker and then touching the prongs, a self destructive behavior.

I assume most dual 30 amp systems don't have a parallel combiner switch.

Got a schematic that shows the circuit lockouts?

Other than a switch. make a 30 amp Y splitter to energize both 30 amp inlets at once.
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Old 09-08-2016, 07:21 AM   #220
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Seems like all you'd have to do to prevent that is to turn off the main breaker feeding the house. Then the generator couldn't back feed to the transformer.
Of course and that was his argument. The problem is, that depends on a human remembering to do this and humans sometimes forget. He also argued that the "hot" 220 volt dryer plug hanging from the ceiling waiting to be plugged in wasn't a hazard because he knew to plug it in before starting the generator.

Remember, he didn't just do this one time in an emergency, this was his standard, permanent setup for power outages. He had plenty of time to have it installed correctly.

He got tired of having to lift the mower over the wires from the shed to the house (three wires, not a cable and no ground) so he buried them six inches deep.


The NEC and on boats, ABYC frowns on any system that requires human action to provide safety and for good reason.
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