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Old 10-23-2019, 09:32 AM   #41
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Depends...as my usual mantra.


My boat never noticed it one bit (less than 0.1 knot) difference (maybe cause I am over propped a bit... ) when my prop was 100% covered with small barnacles on my summer trip to clear water where I felt like diving on it.


40 footer with a 6.3 knot cruise speed and it had very little effect.


On other boats sure....by the end of the season...the assistance towboat I ran...had a layer of barnacles on the hull and running gear and dropped from 22 knots to 18.


But every boat can be a little different.
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Old 10-23-2019, 05:25 PM   #42
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Old 10-23-2019, 07:44 PM   #43
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The bottom paint is some old stuff a friend gave me for free.
Yes, Hampton gets a lot of fouling.

At our marina, everyone I talk to has just painted the same paint on the running gear as the bottom.
And never have I heard doing that caused them trouble.
I just do what they did.

If you coat the metal with waterproofing, it will prevent it from corroding, if it stays dry.
I got no reason to doubt that.

Last summer we dove on the boat, the props had few barnacles, the hull a few.
But I have noticed now there are more now on the hull where I can see .

I can pop them off sitting on the swim platform pretty easy.

This boat is mostly for short day trips into the bay, like a picnic boat, not cruising.
Painting or varning stainless steel shafts is unwise. Stainless steel corrodes in the absence of oxygen and largely corrodes from the inside out. Such corrosion may appear as nothing more than a miniscule pit on the outside such as the x-ray photo of a shaft below. The broken shaft photo cleary shows minimal external visual damage whhile the inside looks like sponge toffee. Preventing H2O from contact will hasten corrosion.

Painting propellers is unwise unless you have a "real" bronze propeller which is nott too common. The vast majority of our propellers are "manganese bronze" which is actually a class of brass due to it's 35-38% zinc content. Many anti-fouling paints have metals in them and can cause dezincification due to galvanic reaction between the prop and the paint.
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Old 10-24-2019, 08:18 AM   #44
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For painting props, use of an appropriate primer of adequate thickness should prevent galvanic issues.

For the shafts, that's an interesting thought. So for those of us with stainless shafts, it's better to leave them bare and allow buildup that has to be cleaned off rather than painting?
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Old 10-24-2019, 10:57 AM   #45
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For painting props, use of an appropriate primer of adequate thickness should prevent galvanic issues.

For the shafts, that's an interesting thought. So for those of us with stainless shafts, it's better to leave them bare and allow buildup that has to be cleaned off rather than painting?
No primer on a prop is going to last long unless it's a dock queen.
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:20 PM   #46
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Thanks everyone.
As stated, this is my first season in salt water and I'm learning after years in fresh water. All of your advice has been very helpful. I'm headed to the boat this weekend to try different techniques in removing the crud from the underwater gear and to bring home the propellers for the winter.

Does anyone use any anti foul paint or coatings on your underwater gear for the season - not to include the propeller shafts?

Jim
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:56 PM   #47
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Does anyone use any anti foul paint or coatings on your underwater gear for the season...
Propspeed is the best performing example of a foul-release coating for underwater metals that you can buy.

https://oceanmax.com/marine-products...ct-information
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Old 10-25-2019, 08:01 AM   #48
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Historically my struts, rudders and trim tabs have just gotten regular bottom paint. And the props and shafts have been bare.

This year, I'm thinking of stripping all of that down to clean metal, priming it and trying out the Pettit Black Widow paint on everything except the shafts. I'm thinking it may stay smoother on those surfaces than a regular ablative, leading to better performance and fuel burn later in the paint's life.

I'm not sure if my approach will hold up as well as Propspeed, but as long as it holds up reasonably well over a season, it might be better for me. It's certainly cheaper and unlike Propspeed, it's got antifouling properties, so there should be less stuff that starts to grow and then has to be released from the slippery coating.
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Old 10-25-2019, 09:11 AM   #49
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This year, I'm thinking of stripping all of that down to clean metal, priming it and trying out the Pettit Black Widow paint on everything except the shafts. I'm thinking it may stay smoother on those surfaces than a regular ablative, leading to better performance and fuel burn later in the paint's life.
I have a customer who is not happy with his Black Widow. So much so that he's having it removed from the boat.

https://youtu.be/mbrRDbcw6so
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Old 10-25-2019, 09:31 AM   #50
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I have a customer who is not happy with his Black Widow. So much so that he's having it removed from the boat.

https://youtu.be/mbrRDbcw6so
Interesting. But fortunately, we don't get barnacles up here in Lake Ontario. So for the most part, as long as it keeps slime growth down, that'll be good enough. I'm also figuring that keeping running gear growth down in general is easier on a faster boat (I cruise around 17 - 18 kts), and the areas I'm planning to use this stuff are the high water flow areas anyway.

Plus, we'll be on the hard every winter anyway up here, so if I try something and it doesn't work well enough to get through a 6 - 7 month season, I can try something else for the next season.
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Old 10-26-2019, 09:52 PM   #51
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Thanks everyone.
As stated, this is my first season in salt water and I'm learning after years in fresh water. All of your advice has been very helpful. I'm headed to the boat this weekend to try different techniques in removing the crud from the underwater gear and to bring home the propellers for the winter.

Does anyone use any anti foul paint or coatings on your underwater gear for the season - not to include the propeller shafts?

Jim
We use Propspeed on all the underwater gear.
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Old 10-27-2019, 01:57 AM   #52
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You will be buying more zincs than you ever thought possible now that you put your boat in battery soup... but:

To help make sure you're not the corrosion victim - do you have an isolation transformer or galvanic isolator? Not sure if those are as common in fresh water. In salt, if you have a nasty neighbor both zincs and then other metals can go quick; the above (for different purposes but both provide parasitic neighbor galvanic protection) can help them from going too quick...
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Old 10-27-2019, 09:36 AM   #53
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When first moving to a new marina in salt water, it's not a bad idea to hang a zinc fish in the water whenever the boat is in its slip. It'll give some extra just-in-case protection to keep a neighbor from chewing up your zincs super fast and more importantly, it gives you an idea of how fast your zincs are degrading (and you'll pull it up to look every time you leave the slip, so more often than you'd dive to check).
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Old 10-27-2019, 10:04 AM   #54
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To me, hanging a zinc fish just shows you don't know what's going on with your boat.

Better to get a survey done or get a zinc zinc chloride cell and do it yourself.

There's no guarantee that the zinc fish will do any better than what your existing zincs are doing depending on whether there is continuity throughout your bonding system or not.
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Old 10-27-2019, 10:16 AM   #55
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The fish is certainly no substitute for knowing that your own boat is good and healthy and adequately protected anode-wise. IMO, it's more useful as a "how hot is the water in this new marina" monitor, where you can stick it out as an extra that's easily monitored for degradation. Of course, as mentioned, a healthy bonding system is a prerequisite for the fish to be of any use.

If it starts to get chewed up quickly, better watch your other zincs carefully and figure out what's going on around you. If it looks basically untouched after a while, might as well stop using it.
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Old 10-27-2019, 10:46 AM   #56
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Or just measure what is going on and be done with it.
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