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Old 11-14-2014, 09:01 PM   #21
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I can run on one engine and allow the Velvet Drive S7000 series free-wheel. Not looking forward to the haul out.
I appologize if I'm telling you what you already know, but if your boat uses a water feed to the cutless bearings in the shaft log, you may not want to freewheel the shaft even if the transmission is okay with this. Without that cooling water flow to the shaft log, you could heat things up pretty severely to the point of damage. Tying off the shaft elimates this problem.

We have Velvet Drive transmissions and the manual says they can be freewheeled at slow speeds, which they define as "trolling or sailing" speed. Not a very exact definition, unfortunately.

Our boat does have cooling water feeds to the shaft logs, so on the occasions when we've had to come home on one, we have always tied off the shaft.
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:12 PM   #22
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My PSS Seal guidance states cooling water is not needed at speeds less than 12 kts. I have cooling water and have a crossover line that provides positive water flow from either operating engine to both seals. Overkill since it's not really even needed on my boat cruising at 7.5 kts, but it's there anyway. Yours might be similar.

After my second issue with prop damage (submerged log), I went to Prop Scan for the tuning of both props. Now the next time I tweek a prop (I know it'll happen!!), I'll only have to pull the affected prop to have it tuned back to its original pitch which matches the opposite prop and not pull both props. That should save money and time.

A good diver can measure the shaft while it's in the water and pull the affected prop. Maybe it'll save the expense of haul out. I hope yours is a simple fix.
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:27 PM   #23
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My PSS Seal guidance

After my second issue with prop damage (submerged log), I went to Prop Scan for the tuning of both props. Now the next time I tweek a prop (I know it'll happen!!), I'll only have to pull the affected prop to have it tuned back to its original pitch which matches the opposite prop and not pull both props. That should save money and time.
With or with out having had your props redone using Pro Scan, if only one got dinged why would you have to have both props pulled and reconditioned?
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:32 PM   #24
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With or with out having had your props redone using Pro Scan, if only one got dinged why would you have to have both props pulled and reconditioned?
If they had not been scanned recently, the repaired prop pitch might not match the other. So it is common to pull both to match, even though one needs no repair. With scans in hand, they can be matched even with one left under the boat.
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Old 11-15-2014, 06:30 AM   #25
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>Short of a shotgun, I don't know what to do with these people.<

A signal cannon , 12Ga with blank black powder loads , is louder than the shot gun and costs less than a short haul.

If cruising the AICW out of season it is a requirement for bridge tenders to hear over the TV.
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Old 11-15-2014, 06:36 AM   #26
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I appologize if I'm telling you what you already know, but if your boat uses a water feed to the cutless bearings in the shaft log, you may not want to freewheel the shaft even if the transmission is okay with this. Without that cooling water flow to the shaft log, you could heat things up pretty severely to the point of damage. Tying off the shaft elimates this problem.

We have Velvet Drive transmissions and the manual says they can be freewheeled at slow speeds, which they define as "trolling or sailing" speed. Not a very exact definition, unfortunately.

Our boat does have cooling water feeds to the shaft logs, so on the occasions when we've had to come home on one, we have always tied off the shaft.
Thanks Marin, I really appreciate your follow up on my responses. I have the old fashion packing that was just repacked in the spring with GFO Gor Tex. We have run once before on one engine for 5 hours. During that period I used the IR thermometer on everything and all stayed cool. Keep the thoughts coming
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Old 11-15-2014, 08:09 AM   #27
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If they had not been scanned recently, the repaired prop pitch might not match the other. So it is common to pull both to match, even though one needs no repair.

With scans in hand, they can be matched even with one left under the boat.
Hmmm... If you say so. Can't say I've heard or seen pulling both props when only one has been damaged. Other than perhaps and as you mentioned, it's been quite a while since both props where tuned.

Heck, sportfish captains hate touching their props at all if the boat is a know fish raiser.

Sure. And not to say Prop Scan is not worth doing. But even with old school prop reports they could be matched, at the very least close enough for a trawler.
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Old 11-15-2014, 10:27 AM   #28
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With or with out having had your props redone using Pro Scan, if only one got dinged why would you have to have both props pulled and reconditioned?
The prop profile resides in the prop scan computer and can be duplicated with the single prop. No longer a need to have both props side by side to replicate the pitch.
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Old 11-15-2014, 10:29 AM   #29
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Hmmm... If you say so. Can't say I've heard or seen pulling both props when only one has been damaged. Other than perhaps and as you mentioned, it's been quite a while since both props where tuned.

Heck, sportfish captains hate touching their props at all if the boat is a know fish raiser.

Sure. And not to say Prop Scan is not worth doing. But even with old school prop reports they could be matched, at the very least close enough for a trawler.
It's a big deal on fast boats, where you want to match engine loads at same rpm. I have to deal with that often. Not a big deal on a boat going hullspeed.
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:38 PM   #30
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In skinny water I have learnt not to move over when restricted by draft. We draw 5'7" on a good day and have had ski boats yell at me in narrow areas because I have not moved over far enough for them as far as they were concerned when in reality I was already over as far as possible.

As someone else said know your boats limitations and don't be afraid to stand your ground if all other contact efforts fail.

Having a 10'+ bow also helps I must admit my attitude on boaters having passed a license test has changed based on some of the experiences we saw on our Great Loop trip.
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Old 11-19-2014, 03:03 PM   #31
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In skinny water I have learnt not to move over when restricted by draft. We draw 5'7" on a good day and have had ski boats yell at me in narrow areas because I have not moved over far enough for them as far as they were concerned when in reality I was already over as far as possible......
Many of these folks don't understand how deep the water must be for your boat. Just like they don't understand that your anchor may be a hundred feet off your bow with the rode at an angle and near the surface.

There's nothing you can do to educate them all you just have to deal with their ignorance.
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