Rolly Polly ????

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Dannc-
Thank you, I did in deed read the article. I assume you read my more detailed response to Martin regarding why, how, how much and where we placed our ballast.
Had I read this article before doing what we did, I suspect that I would hesitate and quandary a bit more prior to making a move. Yet, the results we obtained with what we did are amazing in terms of settling the boat down. Honest, were I to be occupied in the boat and unannounced you stepped on the gunnels, the action would throw me off my feet! In a beam sea, ;you could not sit on the helm chair without rotating 90 degrees with the sharp rolling motion. We have a FD hull, not a SD or flat bottom. I agree with the conclusions of actions apparent with sharp chine boats, I have had several. In our FD hull the roll was a roll, a very quick roll, not the snap roll as described. Yes, I in adversely used the term “Snap” in my response where it should have been “Quick”. In a head sea due to the shortness of the hull (27’ WL) our local sea distance cap to cap, are more suited for a 36 foot boat or longer. So we “Hobby Horse” to a degree,
Prior to the adding of ballast that action would throw you out of the helm chair, back and forth. Let me say that at that point I wondered if the purchase of the boat was a huge mistake. I wondered back if the prior owners became dissatisfied with the action and did sell the boat to move it along as there had never been any effort to address in the format we invested.

The bottom line is with the majority of the 1100# weight added, dead center over the already built in 1500# led cast in the keel when constructed, with remaining ingots located abeam of the engine stringers and 100# located under the anchor chain. In addition, we shifted our three bank of batteries from mid-ship port side of the engine stringer to forward center line engine compartment bulkhead (90#?) the boat now lifts and falls with a noted softness over the original harshness.
The boat handles beam seas in a almost vertical position with the waves running under the boat and not slapping the boat over. Yes, on the stern wave action we are still looking much the drunken sailor but not with the added quick roll, more the reaction is a lighter slower heeling. More a rudder battle over a hull swerving action. Does that seem a clear picture? Our roll is soft, our hobby horse is reduced and the boat is a more pleasant motion in our common 2 foot seas. (Note: when the seas exceed 2 feet, in any case we are looking for a hidey hole.

As to the effects of adding weight per the article, we recently increased the hp of the engine with a repower, noted in several recent post. Our hull seed is 6.9 knots and with the calculated weight of the boat including all ballast and such, only 34 hp are required to reach hull speed. So the power sector of the article as it relates to our small boat is nil.
WE don’t push much water as we are about maxed out for efficiency at 1400 RPM and at hull speed so the concerns of extra weight are again in my opinion nil.
Please understand that I am wanting to be argumentative in the discussion rather I draw a different conclusion in light of actual physical application that runs contrary to the article in so many ways.

As I type this response, sitting in the Wrangell boat harbor, I am witnessing several commercial fishing boats that have installed tanks to accommodate fish quality. The boat tanks are flooded to the point that the water is flowing over the decks and off. Can you imagine what a say 20 foot long hold, say 15 feet wide and say, 8 feet deep water contained weighs and what does that do for the discussion of ballast placement? And yes, these boats are running in heavy seas at times in full tank conditions. Don’t want to change the thread, but those conditions I described run contrary to the authors article I would think.
Perhaps Tad Roberts being a marine architect would present a response to why I am having success in face of the article and the conclusions of having commercial boats tanked affecting stability rules
Al
 
Back to the Gulfstar. I tend to agree with Dougcole. His description of our gulfstar roll is extremely accurate. Of course the 2 ft beam sea is dificult only when the frequency is small, 4 sec etc. I seem to find that a 4 ft beam with 8 sec frequency is no problem. Now, I believe this is because of the round bottom. I also believe a semi displacment or planing hull would possibly be a problem in a large beam sea with large frequency since it would tend to float parrellel to the face of the sea. I do feal that tacking makes some difference but not much. I am told only 36 gulfstar 36 boats were made so consequently not much effort has been put into solving the problem. Now to the issue of finding another more appropriate vessel. Oh, and I also agree the idea of picking your days is smart no matter what the vessel, smart for many reasons and is a factor to good seamanship but, what those days, and there are many that change unpredictably and quickly? Back to another boat, what vessel? Even the out of price range "Passagemakers" have rolling issues and add sails, paravanes, gyros and tanks per Beebes book. Albin not a passage maker but looks good and still has some rolling. Willard, one mentioned in Beebes book added bildge keels with supposedly great results. Size is not a factor look at Kristens 25 ft passagemaker. Of course it has paravanes. Back to basic physics, a body at rest tends to remain at rest. This would tend to support ballest. But where is the cg of the vessel and righting moment and when is it exceeded. The roolig we are talking about is due to very poor initial stability. Although extremely uncomfortable it does not mean the vessel is dangerous. But until a righting moment is determined it would be foolish to assume the veesel has a fantastic righting moment. A gulfstar does not have a lot of weight located high of the deck. The flybridge is very small compared to most trawlers. I have also minimized as much high weight as possible. Ok, now assuming I decide it is time to look at another vessel which make and model? Trawler or do I become a sailor?

Cat, make and model unimportant?
 
I read that the Gulfstar is a low priced vessel, which it is. From this one would assume it to be low quality, which in some years was. But, at the same time the manufacture, around 1975, contracted with a marine architect to fix some of the manufacturing problems. They did just that. May I suggest that the low price of boats and aircraft are simply due to lack of demand and popularity. (There are excellent low priced bargain aircraft in the used market.) Yes that can be due to quality concerns but also simply due to not what was wanted at the time. I believe only 36 of the gulfstar 36 vessels were built. Not very popular,and maybe a lot of boat for the money. In our vessel I do not see what I would call low quality and maneuverability is fantastic. So far even in 6 to 8 ft following seas the vessel handles well. In consistent following seas the autopilot works perfectly. In head seas, short square 3 to 4 ft chop it can be rough, but nothing like a vessel with chines. Many more in demand vessel have to the untrained eye the same or at least similar hull shape. The so called "better" vessels (more costly) have got paravanes and other devices to stop beam sea roll. Still waiting for the answer to trade up to what? Regarding tanks, according to Beebe the tanks should be high. This architecture would be using leverage to steady the vessel. Low ballast would be using inertia to steady. If you were able to bring the CG below the water line would the vessel be almost uncapsizable. But, how does this effect righting moment. I would have to draw a diagram to determine the general effects of this condition. I am not a marine engineer although I am an engineer. I proceed cautiously because as thay say, "a little bit of knowledge can be dangerous".
 
As an experiment I would put a number of large plastic garbage bags on the cabin top , filled with water.

Start with 500lbs , go higher as the experiment progresses.

It might slow the roll and a quick slash with your knife would unburden the boat in seconds if it became a danger .

Garbage bags are cheap, sea water free , Knowledge is GOLD!
 
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Actually Al...the way you spread the weight around was exactly what I was talking about. So I can see it working based on my readings.

Weight centered down low doesn't solve all stability issues as many think.
 
kpinnn is correct, i believe, about the quality of the build of the gulfstar 36' trawler. if they are taken care of they can be great, lifetime vessels. all boats need care. don't know why they were not more popular but i am very pleased with mine. lots of bang for the buck and i very much like being under the radar in the gosh-look-at-me-and-how-wonderful-and-expensive-my-boat-is department. i am transitioning from a 50' hatteras to this 36' gulfstar so i am familiar with some of this mentality. all in all, the 36' gulfstar trawler is a terrific boat and i look forward to many more years with her.

and what FF said about using water filled plastic trash bags up high to see if maybe this pseudo style of roll tank might be helpful is just brilliant. wish i had thought of that.
 
I liked many things about the Gulfstars...just not the layout and accommodations for a lliveaboard.

Nothing technical...just preference....and I think it is what hurt their popularity more than anything.
 
yes, psneeld, i understand what you are saying about the layout of the 36' gulfstar trawler. it was a trade-off. for example, the interior layout works well for me but i really love and miss the idea of a large back porch on a boat. my gulfstar does not have that. my previous boat did, and that is where i spent most of my leisure time. can't have everything.
 
The layout works great for us and we do have the full back deck as well as a mast. I believe there was a mark I and Mark II style. One of the vessels has a mast without full deck and the other no mast but full deck. Surprisingly out has both. If I can reduce the initial roll along with some real teak and fiberglass uplifiting we will have a great economical classis looking trawler. We have put on about 2000 miles in a year. Here in the Northeast get many comments regarding it looking like a boat should. Last week while docking in Portsmouth NH we were told by somone watching us enter that it was the best looking trawler in the harbor. Well this is all a matter of opinion and personal preferance. I also need to differenciate between initial roll and stability or safety. I believe these are different subjects. Well, with one exception if the roll is so violent the people are thrown around that is dangerous but still does not indicate capsize tendencies. Of course I have no idea what the center of gravity (CG) is or center of boyancy (CB). I do know that typically a low center of gravity and round bottom hull should give the best righting torque. The gulfstar or at least ours does not have a lot of high structure compared to other trawlers. The round bottom should offer a more consistant CB compared to a chined or flatter bottom boat. These two characteristics should afford a greated angle of heel before the metacenter and CG line up, resulting in capsize. Now that is seaworthiness but sea kindlyness (roll) is another story. The tank idea is great. I think I will try the water bags. The original tanks were designed with baffels that allowed water to move from one side to the other in a restricted fashion that would have to correspond to the natural roll frequency of the hull. Actually I would suspect the goal was to create a rolling force at 180 degrees to the roll. It was also supposedly mounted high to get the most effect. Now I have moved my CG upward. This move would definately reduce safe heeling angle. I liken this to flying theory regarding spins. At one time spins and spin recovery was taught now the theory is teach spin recognition and we will not have to deal with spin recovery problems. As an acro pilot I think spin recovery is more important. With the boat if roll can be stopped then you will never heel to the capsize angle, or will you. I guess I would like to reduce roll to an acceptable level without sacrificing safe heel angle. Maybe due to the relative small size of the vessel and small beam a lower water tank could work and if low enough possibly lower the CG increasing heeling safety. Bags on the deck may show something that dictates more testing.
 
with that back porch, kpinnn, you might have the perfect boat. i think i might be jealous.
 
To dampen roll added weight should obviously be a considerable distance nice from CG. I thought that would be obvious.

Wrong choice of words. Lengthening the KG will make the roll snappier. She will come back quicker. It will likely not change much the length of the roll. Hull shape being what it is will make weather day delays, change in destination or tacking needed to make a trip.
I have lived through experimentation where the boats were made SO snappy your feet would almost get pulled out from under you in a beam sea.

The OP. You have a round bilged boat. They roll. These are a variant of a motor sailer. They stopped making them. Care to guess why? They roll. You have to plan your trip around the seas.

There's about 4 concepts to change the roll. (It's all a crap shoot, trial and error)

Add weight as far down low as possible.
Add weight right at (or just below) CB.
Add weight in the centerline.
Reducing weight aloft ( think flybridge)

It's not just about adding weight down low. A boat with too much tophamper is easy to fix

A boat with round bilges is tough. You can't change the shape of the hull. When she rolls is it a long, slow, deep roll? Or is it a sharp snappy roll?
 
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cappy,
What's KG and CB?

For serious roll control fishermen in Alaska always (as far as I know) employ paravanes. And many to most have round like hulls. However my Willard appears to have a rounded hull but actually dosn't. Just rounded bilges.
 
KG = vertical center of gravity

CB = center of buoyancy
 
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Cappy, I agree the shape of the hull seems to be the determining factor. But maybe you can effectively change the shape of the hull. A resistance of some sort to the water movement under the hull. This brings me full circle to bilge keels. Manyboats, in beebes book he mentions an individual with a willard who had added bilge keels with excellent results. The paravanes effectively add a resistance to the movement of the boat utilizing water resistance.
 
This might help.....


Hydrostatic Nomenclature

B or CB – Center of Buoyancy, the center through which the buoyant force acts. The CB moves as the underwater shape changes as the hull moves up and down (or rolls sideways) in the water. If the hull is floating free to trim or roll, the CB will always be directly under the center of gravity. During launching this doesn’t happen because the hull is “aground” forward.

M - Metacenter, the theoretical point around which the boat rolls or trims. There are separate transverse and longitudinal M’s.

K – Keel or baseline, the fixed line from which all vertical measurements are taken.

G – Center of Gravity of the vessel. The center of all the various weights that make up the boat. Addressed separately as VCG (Vertical Center of Gravity), LCG (Longitudinal Center of Gravity), and TCG (Transverse Center of Gravity). In computerese X is longitudinal, Y is athwartships, and Z is vertical.

GM – Distance from G to M in ft. or metres. Considered a general indication of a given vessel’s stability. To be stable G must be below M. A larger GM means the ship is stiff, a small GM (say less than one ft) is a tender vessel, a negative GM indicates an unstable ship.

GZ – Righting Arm in feet or metres. A horizontal distance between the CG acting downward and the CB acting upward.

V – Volume of the hull (underwater portion) in cubic feet or metres. The displaced volume (underwater) will be equal to the total weight of the vessel divided by the weight of the water she’s floating in. So if your boat weighs 5000 pounds(2273Kg) on the trailer, afloat she will displace 5000 pounds(2273Kg). Seawater weighs approximately 64 pounds(29Kg) per cubic foot so underwater volume (V) is 5000/64 = 78.1 cubic feet, or 2273/1000 = 2.27 cubic metres.

I – Inertia of Waterplane. The waterplane is a cut through the hull at the waterline. The distribution of this area affects stability. A barge and a needleboat could have the same waterplane area, but very different stability.

BM = I/V - Key stability equation. Inertia of the waterplane (I), divided by the displacement (V), is equal the distance from (B) the center of buoyancy, to (M) the meta center.

Ultimate Stability Angle- Called the angle of vanishing stability, this is the heel angle where righting force is zero.

Downflooding Angle- The heel angle where water starts coming through some hull opening (doors, windows, ports, hatches) and degrades stability of the vessel.

Free Surface- When the contents of a tank (fuel, fresh water, wet fish) slosh to one side it sets up a heeling force, which can degrade stability.

Stabilityterms1.JPG
 
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I have a 1973 36 Gulfstar mk1, and it rolls. Period. The steadying sail helps somewhat, but it still rolls in a beam sea. We tack underway when we have to, and stay at the pier to wait for favorable conditions. I keep the water tank full, and the fuel tank above 1/2. More than 2 feet on the beam is unacceptable for us, but we're retired, doing the loop, and don't have a schedule. I think it is a lot of boat for little money. Like all boats, you learn their quirks and deal with it. I have 2 Perkins 4-236 engines, but the trannys are not counter-rotating. So it prop walks to starboard when backing. OK, I know about it, I plan for it. All part of the fun.

As for numbers, Gulfstar made 98 36' Mk1 in 1973-1973. Then in 1975-1976, made 35 Mk IIs.
 
I guess it's a bit extreme to put in a sea keeper gyro stabilizer for around 30 K but sure have read good things about them
 
"They stopped making them. (MOTORSAILORS) Care to guess why? They roll. You have to plan your trip around the seas."

The early MS is mostly gone from the market because of lifestyle , hardly roll.

The usual MS is like any ocean voyaging a vessel where folks live IN the hull.

With diesels that are 1/5 the weight and size of early gas or diesels the fully powered sailboat is the result.

These actually do sail, at fine speeds , although most are 50-90ft + and may cost a few million.

Small sailors 30 ft up , can cross oceans , but not all the way under power.

Today folks want a view from above deck and the few (under 1-100) that will pay perhaps 300% extra for an ocean crossing motor boat scantlings enjoy the voyage.

That an inshore boat built as high and as fat as can be done (more room aboard ) with a short slip expense ,should not be amazed that their Roomaran does not like rough water.

All boats are a compromise , the mere volume boaters seem happy to do without seaworthy , sea kindly or easy to operate.They are found dockside most days.
 
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Cappy, I agree the shape of the hull seems to be the determining factor. But maybe you can effectively change the shape of the hull. A resistance of some sort to the water movement under the hull. This brings me full circle to bilge keels. Manyboats, in beebes book he mentions an individual with a willard who had added bilge keels with excellent results. The paravanes effectively add a resistance to the movement of the boat utilizing water resistance.


I don't know how big bilge keels need to be before they are effective, but I can assure you that mine have only minimal effect on roll reduction. If you are considering it, don't skimp on the size. I suspect mine are far too small.
Then again, I suppose the same can be said for steadying sails.

Here's what mine look like.
 

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This thread's getting very informative.

Perhaps a keel extension the same area as a bilge keel would have the same effect .. roll wise? I'm not a fan of bilge keels.

Thanks for the thinking sheet TAD. A great lesson for those that are curious.
 
motorsailors are still built

"They stopped making them. (MOTORSAILORS) Care to guess why? They roll. You have to plan your trip around the seas."

The early MS is mostly gone from the market because of lifestyle , hardly roll.
That was not what I wrote. I was referring to this particular model, which in reality was a motorsailor hull, with the mast removed. Gulfstar made the 36 and a 43 I believe. They did the same on both models. Then they gave up on the trawler market. The concept of building motorsailors and when the trawler market heated up, simply removing the masts and calling it trawler was what stopped. The hull shape is the same on these vessels. The manufacturers (as I recall, I was really young in those days) had tried to experiment with removing the rig, lessening the molded in keel weight (to compensate for reduced or removed masts and sails), lessening the draft in the mold (thus making a shallower draft 'trawler') But the one thing they did NOT do was change the hull design. That is what killed the motorsailor conversions.

The people (as was mentioned by several people who actually live in, own and use in this blog) who own one now have to allow for weather.

I'm sort of surprised that no one from the 'Willard/Fales" community has commented on this, from both sides perspective (Under sail, versus power.)

here's a couple pics to show the difference. gulfstar36 with rig.jpg The only visible difference is full mast, gulfstar 36 no rig.jpgor stays'l mast. Same hull. gulfstar underbody.jpgNice underbody shape ;-)
 
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