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Old 05-27-2015, 10:20 PM   #81
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Thanks RT. since every single place is either at a joint or attachment point that is something I had thought about. I think this very thread has some ideas of the best caulking to use.
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:20 PM   #82
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Looks like the joint was too tight for the caulk to work . I think I would open up the joint first so you can get more caulk in the joint . I have never tried west system as a base coat but it sounds like it should work . You may need to use some acetone first to hold down the teak oil so the epoxy will set .
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:22 PM   #83
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Rt you be at me to it . I used TDS caulk .
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:40 PM   #84
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Greetings,
DOUBLE dag-nabbit. It IS this thread...I wish I was a drinker so I'd at least have an excuse...

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Old 05-27-2015, 10:42 PM   #85
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Route out the seam and caulk it. Then based on the picture I'd feather those edges out some more. You'll need to stain that bare area to get the color to match, or at least get closer to the color of the old finish.

Is what is on the rails now comparable with the product you want to use on top of it?
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:51 PM   #86
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CaptBill,
Yes I am using the same products for both the sealer and the topcoat. The refinishing job that is breaking down was just done about 18 months ago.
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:53 PM   #87
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Thanks Mule. Where do you purchase the TDS caulk?
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Old 05-27-2015, 11:11 PM   #88
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I just finished reseating my flybridge deck with the TDS product and was very happy with it. defender.com and Jamestown Distributors sell it online. In Seattle, Fisheries Supply stocks it on the shelf so you might find it at a well stocked store locally. In my neighborhood West Marine does not stock it which stinks when you have about 6" on your last seam and your last tube hits empty......
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Old 05-28-2015, 06:51 AM   #89
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I get it at Jamestown distributors . Also the guys at TDS are very helpful .
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Old 05-28-2015, 08:56 AM   #90
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when I open the joints to caulk do I go completely through the board?
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:07 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Ranson View Post
when I open the joints to caulk do I go completely through the board?
When I did ours, I went in ~ 3/8-1/2". Deeper and I think you could have a problem keeping a sharp edge on the teak and yet you are deep enough to get good adhesion between the TDS/teak and still allow for some movement.

I used a Dremal with #426 cut-off wheels.
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:10 AM   #92
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Greetings,
Mr. BR. I wouldn't go completely through. One would want to maintain structural integrity. I would guess 1/4 of the total thickness would suffice BUT I defer to those who have much more experience than I do. In your case, you may have to remove the stainless rubbing strip depending on the final appearance you wish to achieve.
Ah, in reference to Mr. LM's post...If you use a Dremel wheel as shown you'll have problems maintaining the right angle bends you have mid-board. I would probably get a Dremel bit similar to: https://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accesso...l.aspx?pid=196
and use it in conjunction with: http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...l.aspx?pid=566
and free hand your cut.
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Old 05-28-2015, 03:12 PM   #93
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Thanks RT and Larry ��

Can anyone give me some help on time between coats for the West Epoxy 105+207. The West System site says you can apply up to three coats in a day but doesn't give any info on how long between coats. They also say that no additional prep is needed between coats. I have watched every West System video I can find and nowhere is there a hint about this.
On the wooden boat builders site they say one coat a day with sanding to a dull finish between each coat.

I'm confused..
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Old 05-28-2015, 05:26 PM   #94
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Greetings,
Mr. BR. Beware of amine blush between coats of West System. Amine Blush - Bad Things with some Marine Epoxy Resins
After my current store of WS is used up I will not buy it again. There are several other brands of epoxy on the market that perform just as well without the amine problem. I suspect the reason WS is so popular has more to do with marketing than performance. WS is a good product, without a doubt, but it's not the only pickle in the barrel...
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