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Old 03-21-2015, 08:49 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by FlyWright View Post
I'd have to say I agree with you, Ed. I like the look, but not the work. I tolerate the work since the boating life is a series of compromises. High on my list of "unwanteds" on my ideal boat list was exterior brightwork. But then I found a boat with too many "wanteds" to overlook, so I reluctantly accepted the varnished teak.
My idea of "brightwork" is stainless steel, not wood.

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Old 03-21-2015, 08:58 PM   #22
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My idea of "brightwork" is stainless steel, not wood.

Party pooper!
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Old 03-22-2015, 12:15 AM   #23
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Party pooper!
Hey I used to own a green striped P40 just like yours and I know what it was like to maintain the wood. As soon as I worked my way around the boat just kept going. Now that I won't see 75 again I don't want to waste what's left on bright work. The green also fades and chalks more work unless you two part paint it.
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:10 AM   #24
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Mine were in pretty rough shape when we bought the boat . Originally I was going to paint my rails with some of those bright Carribbean colors like orange and turquoise but the wife wouldn't go for it . I work at a lumber company so I was able to get a good deal ( as good as you can ) on some Bermease teak . We just ripped off the old and made new rails . It sounds like a lot of work but I'm not so sure that wasn't easier than trying to get what I had to look halfway decent. It was much easier to varnish starting out with new teak . No hardware to deal with .I did the woodwork over the winter in my shop and we started the varnish in early spring . We put a coat on every other day . Six coats total . It probably needs more but not this year.

Would I do it again ?
( I probaly would if the right boat fell in my lap and that's what it needed )
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:25 AM   #25
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Hey Mule, can you post a couple pictures of them. I don't have any cap rails but a couple other pieces of exterior wood trim I've been thinking of doing exactly that with.

I'd like to see the pics too. I've gotten most of the teak scraped clean and now need to decide the next steps. Being done with the project is what I want. If painting is the least labor and time consuming, longest lasting solution, that's where I'm headed.

Like most others, I can appreciate the beauty of finely finished bright-work. But I have too many other, more interesting things on which to spend my limited leisure time.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:59 AM   #26
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Greetings,
Painting teak might be an option some choose BUT if you're going to go that route, please seal the teak well with a varnish of some sort first so, if in the future, you change your mind or a subsequent owner decides to go "au naturel" your name will not be cursed. Pretty well impossible to remove soaked in paint from raw teak. Thanks.
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Old 03-22-2015, 04:56 PM   #27
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I attended a seminar today at the Defever rendezvous in Palm Beach. The advice was never to use anything coarser than 120 or 150. The coarser the paper, they said, the deeper the grooves you're cutting and the more you have to sand to return to perfectly smooth. If you're a member of the Defever forum, there are several guys who have done a lot of teak work who can share their techniques.

Also mentioned was watch how close the heat gun gets to the glass you wouldn't be the first to crack a pane of glass from the heat.
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:38 PM   #28
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Those rails are so bad I'd pressure wash them before doing any sanding. Sure it will raise the grain, but who cares, you have lots of sanding to do either way. And pressure washing will get more of the old embedded finish out of the grain faster than sanding. Then start with 80 grit, 120 then 220.



Wipe the wood down with clean microfiber rags as you go so you can see your progress. Just before you start to apply your finish wipe the wood down with lots of clean microfiber towels and alcohol.



What type of finish do you intend to put on the wood?

I was considering pure tung oil. I know there are many different solutions. What's your view?
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:40 PM   #29
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I used pure tung oil....still good after 5 to 6 months...when I get home from the trip...will add a few more coats with nothing more than a wash.

I refuse to ever varnish or strip again...better things to do with my time. The wash and tung oil application will take less than a couple hours for hand rails, trim and doors. Following coats should take about an hour plus apiece.

I've got a bottle of this to test, pure tung lil no additives. How did you apply it ? It says thin the first coat with white spirit.
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:49 PM   #30
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I'm sure your dock neighbors will love you if you start blowing the sanding dust all around as recommended above. I would think that a vacuum would be much more neighbor-friendly. I'd also be careful of pressure washing due to loss of teak material.



I've been advised to use a heat gun and scraper, followed by chemical stripper if needed to get the hard-to-reach areas, then sanding with 80-150 grit.



Here are some helpful link/videos.



3 Ways to Strip Teak












Thank you ill try and find the card scraper
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:49 PM   #31
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I've got a bottle of this to test, pure tung lil no additives. How did you apply it ? It says thin the first coat with white spirit.
just rubbed t on with a rag..no thinning..it soaked right in...
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:50 PM   #32
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I was considering pure tung oil. I know there are many different solutions. What's your view?
It really depends on what look you are going for and how much work you are willing to do to keep that look. A classic deep glossy clear look, matt finish, oiled finish, etc.?

What's the weather like where you'll be keeping the boat? Also ask those in the area whst they use on their teak and how they like it.
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:50 PM   #33
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I attended a seminar today at the Defever rendezvous in Palm Beach. The advice was never to use anything coarser than 120 or 150. The coarser the paper, they said, the deeper the grooves you're cutting and the more you have to sand to return to perfectly smooth. If you're a member of the Defever forum, there are several guys who have done a lot of teak work who can share their techniques.

Thank you i follow the site and will get in touch with them.
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:29 PM   #34
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Also mentioned was watch how close the heat gun gets to the glass you wouldn't be the first to crack a pane of glass from the heat.
Right! And they were quoting 1 boat unit per pane to replace (which I believe included labor).
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:19 PM   #35
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I have a can of "Hope's 100% Tung Oil. But it says in smaller print (but not small print) "for interior use".
Anybody have any idea why they say "for interior use"?

My wife Chris does the teak. She brings the color back by applying a mixture of hydrogen peroxide, baking powder and apple cider vinegar. She applies the mixture, waits a bit and then scrapes w a putty knife that dosn't have a sharp edge. She does about 14" of cap rail at a time. Wire brushing helps at times. One must be careful w the mixture as it's strong stuff. She rinses the wood w a very wet (water) cloth/towel when done.

No sanding or store chemicals and no sharp edge scrapping required other than perp for finishing. And the good scrapers are the ones w tungsten carbide blades. They last an unbelievably long time. Definitely don't pressure wash. Pressure washing should IMO be very limited as water gets behind rubber seals, between cracks and joints to enter places that in time causes lots of damage.

After Chris's cleaning she applies varnish by the traditional method of thinning the first or the first several coats of varnish.

If you do want the really smooth boat show kind of finnish wet sand (3 or 400 grit) with thinned varnish and wipe. Your sandings will enter the low spots and/or cracks. If you put enough effort into it a very glass like smooth surface will result.
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:34 PM   #36
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If some one wants to they can make their own oil finish by mixing equal parts boiled linseed oil, turpentine and a good oil based gloss varnish.
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Old 03-22-2015, 11:28 PM   #37
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Bill I did that for several years in Alaska.
Worked quite well but I needed to re-coat about every two months.
And the surface was slightly tacky. I used raw LO though and no more than about 10% varnish. Mostly LO and turp.
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Old 03-23-2015, 12:30 AM   #38
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I'm with Mark, and the PO of my Hatteras, the latter of whom took the massive forward rails off and replaced them with stainless, just leaving the rails aft of the pilot house doors teak (which were then covered most of the time with Sunbrella, removed for special occasions for show. Win-win, IMO. Painting them is only a slight improvement over properly varnishing them, and I have, unlike my friend Bill, never seen it look right. Not to mention it is easier to hang stuff off a stainless tube rail, with less residual damage, than a wood one. Love 'em or leave 'em!
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Old 03-23-2015, 01:03 AM   #39
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We, or rather my wife who's the heat gun artist, use a heat gun and various kinds of scrapers. Never has a problem getting all the old finish off without removing any wood. She uses different degrees of heat depending on the tenacity of different sections of finish.

Once she's done I give the bare wood a light hand sanding with 220 grit paper, then apply two coats of CPES followed by the first coat of finish while the second coat of CPES is still tacky.

That's it and it works perfectly every time.
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Old 03-23-2015, 02:48 AM   #40
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Source for Scrapers

I suggest you check out Lee Valley (leevalley.com). Great source for all kinds of woodworking tools. They have a large selection of scrapers - card, straight, curved, with or without handles... Good company to deal with and a little slice of heaven for hand tool fanatics.
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