I am in the planning stages of replacing all my sanitation hoses on our Symbol 41. I replaced the holding tank last fall after purchasing the boat. It was original to the 1986 boat. It was stainless with a few pin holes in the top. I replaced it with a plastic tank designed for holding sewer.
I don’t have any sanitation hose leaks, but a lot of fine cracks on the outside of the black hoses, especially where they bend. I am getting head order from some of these locations. Not horrible yet, but I am not waiting any longer.
We have two electric macerator heads with discharge lines that are 1” coming out of each one. One head uses fresh water and the other uses sea water. The fresh water head has a hose run of about 15 feet to the tank. This is the line that needs to be replaced. But, while I am at it, they are all getting done.
At this point, both 1” lines go about 5 feet then hook up to a lockable Y valve to allow direct over board discharge. I plan on removing the Y valves and run the lines directly to the tank on both heads. The boat has an overboard discharge pump from the tank that may get used someday that discharges overboard. In all my years of boat ownership, the holding tank has always been pumped to shore. But, down the road while cruising, I know this won’t always be the case.
On my aft head, the 1” discharge line connects directly to the Y valve through a 1” X 1 ½”reducer. The forward head has a reducer in line about 2 feet before it gets to the Y valve.
I am wondering if by removing the Y valves if I should be running new 1 ½” line to the tanks from each head or if I can run new 1” lines all the way from the heads and put the reducer just before the tank inlet? This would be a LOT easier to run the hoses and wouldn’t hold as much sewer in the lines if they don’t get pumped clean every time.
Except for three locations this is a pretty straight forward job on this boat.
Any thoughts from those that have done this job before? Will I be creating an issue using the smaller diameter hose?
Thanks!
I don’t have any sanitation hose leaks, but a lot of fine cracks on the outside of the black hoses, especially where they bend. I am getting head order from some of these locations. Not horrible yet, but I am not waiting any longer.
We have two electric macerator heads with discharge lines that are 1” coming out of each one. One head uses fresh water and the other uses sea water. The fresh water head has a hose run of about 15 feet to the tank. This is the line that needs to be replaced. But, while I am at it, they are all getting done.
At this point, both 1” lines go about 5 feet then hook up to a lockable Y valve to allow direct over board discharge. I plan on removing the Y valves and run the lines directly to the tank on both heads. The boat has an overboard discharge pump from the tank that may get used someday that discharges overboard. In all my years of boat ownership, the holding tank has always been pumped to shore. But, down the road while cruising, I know this won’t always be the case.
On my aft head, the 1” discharge line connects directly to the Y valve through a 1” X 1 ½”reducer. The forward head has a reducer in line about 2 feet before it gets to the Y valve.
I am wondering if by removing the Y valves if I should be running new 1 ½” line to the tanks from each head or if I can run new 1” lines all the way from the heads and put the reducer just before the tank inlet? This would be a LOT easier to run the hoses and wouldn’t hold as much sewer in the lines if they don’t get pumped clean every time.
Except for three locations this is a pretty straight forward job on this boat.
Any thoughts from those that have done this job before? Will I be creating an issue using the smaller diameter hose?
Thanks!
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