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Old 05-01-2015, 08:59 PM   #21
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I put 1/4" T &H plywood over the old plywood and carpeted floor.
The cost is almost the same as Plasteak. The Plasteak looks pretty good but I wanted the plywood - just because. For around $10, Plasteak will send you samples of their T & H imitation with different finishes.
Mu Salon is about 9' X 10' and the total cost was around $1K. That included the new under layment and solid teak trim on each piece. Most of my floor lifts out in 8 Pieces for engine access.

Carpet gets real ratty fast in a boat. We go to Wally World in the fall and buy throw rugs for the winter and throw them away in the spring.
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:14 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by alormaria View Post
Don't do it. Just put new carpeting down. Most guys who install carpet can handle a boat. But, unless they are shipwrights, most carpenters can't put down a cabin sole. (hint: it ain't like laying a floor)
Hire an independent floor guy not a big box store. Ask for ref.

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Old 05-01-2015, 09:33 PM   #23
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Our boat came with this diamond pattern 1/4" thick fiberglass . I had never seen it before and thought it was aluminum at first . The fit was not very good so when we rebuilt the wheel house I recut all of it to get a better fit . We just put a carpet runner on top of it . It's some tough stuff .
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:56 PM   #24
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I removed the badly worn teak and holly plywood in my boat and built a new laminated 3/4" thick cherry with narrow white maple strip floor. 10 coats of two part urethane clear coat and it still looks great after 8 years.

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Old 05-01-2015, 11:21 PM   #25
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TDunn,
No shoes allowed .. right?
Beautiful.
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:23 PM   #26
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Boat shoes are fine. Two part urethane clear coat is hard as nails.
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Old 05-02-2015, 01:02 AM   #27
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Carpets seem to do OK here because we don't have the humidity of those east of the Rocky Mountains. Weather was tolerable when we were in Louisiana in January, however.


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Old 05-02-2015, 06:53 AM   #28
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It should not be that expensive to create a boat look floor from stock materials.

If just the "look" is important the sheets of ply with a paper thin glued on "Teak and Holley" .

If you travel much , duplicating a genuine ships floor might be a help in rough conditions.

The traditional floor has the Holley strips stand proud by 1/8 of an inch or so, to be no skid when the vessel was underway.

Today IPE and other hardwoods are imported from Brazil as house decking , and should wear as well as teak at 1 /10 the cost.

Being lazy , I would consider Loinseal , as far easier to maintain.
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Old 05-02-2015, 08:10 AM   #29
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Kulas,

Either cost is no object for you, or maybe you have a low-cost supply of Teak in Louisiana; if the latter is the case, where do you supply your Teak from?
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Old 05-02-2015, 09:43 AM   #30
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Several years back (maybe 10) I bought 2 bundles of teak on ebay. Ruff cut 2 inch by 6 inch by 10 foot long, plantation type. bundles were 4 foot wide by 4 foot tall, however many boards that is. Cheap, cheaper than just about anything else used in a boat. Shipping was expensive. I have a big bandsaw and a big surface planer so resawing and planing is not a big problem. I really need a drum sander. I've used most of that teak but I also bought an old 44 foot wood boat that had miles of 3/4 and 1 inch teak decking. All 2 inches wide. Beautiful stuff. And the hull was mahagony on bent oak ribs, lapstrake (clinker) built. Meticulous dissassembly was required but I was able to salvage an incredible amount of lumber. I have more time than sense, but I do love the feel of fine wood. However, I have never grown to like the smell of teak shavings. And, dont use the sawdust or shavings for plant mulch, it kills them. When planing after dark you can turn the lights off and see the blades sparking on the silica in the teak. Really tuff on tools. I much prefer to work with the old teak as compared to the newer plantation stuff.
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:29 AM   #31
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Thanks Kulas,

Great info and story.
Yes, I understand the old growth Teak is much preferred, although I do not work with enough of it to notice much. Seems the new stuff is wider and softer grain, but looks pretty similar to me.
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:36 AM   #32
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Every ones experiences are different. I found the older stuff to be much redder in color and richer looking. The new stuff is more of a brown-yellow.
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:42 AM   #33
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I have the exact issue. I am thinking of putting an offer on a Mainship 34. Great looking boat, but I absolutely hate carpet. The Mainship 40 usually has teak & holly, the 34 is carpet in the settee and teak and holly in the galley and pilot house area. I sent away for a sample of some fake teak & holly. It looks like linoleum. I would go with real wood, 1/4" thick or 1/4 thick plywood. Probably the plywood because of the installation. The main thing is where do you put the seams? Each seam has to be framed out in solid teak 1/4" thick wood or you will see the seam. Hatches usually control where the seams go. Good luck and I want pictures!
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:48 AM   #34
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Cant get the pics up. I can email to someone if they will post them.
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Old 05-02-2015, 11:05 AM   #35
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We really like the teak parquet flooring that was used in a lot of if not most Grand Banks boats. Boats like ours were made when old growth teak was inexpensive and labor was cheap. Making this kind of cabin sole today would be a very expensive undertaking.

If we were replacing carpet that's over fairly plain wood the strip floor-- teak and holly for example-- would be a simpler and probably less expensive choice.

I suppose one could do an oak floor like a house. It would depend on the other wood, if any, in the interior. The oak color and grain might not go well with other woods like teak.

Manufactured flooring-- artificial teak and holly panels for instance-- never seems to overcome the "fake" look, but it would be better than carpet. If one did not want to spring for a real teak floor I suppose the panel or veneer flooring would be the way to go.

Photo is one of a series I took to show the fellow making our new cushions what the old ones look like installed. It's the only one I have that illustrates Grand Banks' teak parquet.
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Old 05-02-2015, 11:12 AM   #36
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Cant get the pics up. I can email to someone if they will post them.
Perhaps they are too large. I reduce the size of raw photos to a width of 1000 or 1200 pixels in Photoshop. This gives a decent sized picture thats under the forum's file size limit.
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Old 05-02-2015, 11:42 AM   #37
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Www.island-teak.com sells a really nice product for anyone looking for old teak for decks. He spends the winter in SE Asia buying old butts of logs and reclaimed teak, and ships it back in containers Spends the spring, summer, and fall sawing, milling and planing it into shapes.

His actual price seems to be variable on how much he likes you (or not).
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Old 05-02-2015, 12:19 PM   #38
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Spy-- Thank you for that link. We may stop in there on our annual trek to or from Telegraph Cove in a few weeks (trailer boat, not the GB),
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Old 05-02-2015, 12:30 PM   #39
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.....It looks like linoleum. I would go with real wood, 1/4" thick or 1/4 thick plywood. .....!

I bought a 1986 36DC Mainship about 2 years ago. It had carpet which was old and ratty. the salon on the 36 has 8 boards to lift up for engine access. These boards comprise 80 - 90% of the floor space. When I pulled up the boards, the carpeting was glued down to the plywood and it was a terrible job just trying to clean up one of them. Some of the old surface of the plywood stuck to the carpeting. This would not allow for a good glue job to the 1/4" T& H plywood so I decided to remove the boards and throw them away, but I kept the frames. I bought new cabinet grade 3/4" plywood and put them on the frames and glued the 1/4" T & H to them. Then I put a solid strip of Teak around the edges of the 3/4" + the 1/4" plywood. These strips were about 1/4" X 1 1/8". then I trimmed the edges with a hand held router. This edging will prevent the plywood from splitting out at the edges.
I have photos of pretty much the whole project. I will dig them out in the next couple of days.
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Old 05-02-2015, 12:35 PM   #40
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Spy-- Thank you for that link. We may stop in there on our annual trek to or from Telegraph Cove in a few weeks (trailer boat, not the GB),
Call ahead, as he has very flexible hours. Don't be in a rush as he is not. Don't run over a peacock (really). Bring cash.

Ask about his teak oil, he squeezes out of his sawdust with a grape press. His theory makes sense, why replace lost teak oil with a different type of oil? I bought some and like it a lot.

Like his RIB kits too.

Interesting guy to chat with. I go once a year.
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