The anchor locker drains on newer GBs are similar in position to Walt's. Older GBs, like ours, simply drained the anchor locker into the bilge so have no external drain fitting at all. A drain down by the waterline would seem to be a bad idea, particularly on a slow boat, as this opening will be underwater all the time.
skipperdude wrote:healhustler wrote:
-New twin 8D house batteries
*Man I have one 8D for my house I run a TV to watch movies The Espar and the Garmin almost continually. I have yet to run anything down to a need to charge.
Do you anchor out a lot?
Have you ever run the 8D's down?
*Skip: *My decision to replace the old 8D's with fresh units was a purely patronizing one to not change the system before I understood it. *The windlass and bow thruster have 20 -25 ft. runs of cable on these batteries in addition to the house draw, and the old ones were shot. *I plan on cruising full time in two years, and at that time, I'll likely can the 8D's for smaller, more efficient NO MAINT. gels. *I gotta tell ya, I can still handle and lift and 8D, but I'm wondering if I'll be able to swap them out next time by myself. *They're not in an easy location. *Meanwhile, I'm redoing each system on the boat my way so there's no doubts. *My guess is that lots of new wiring will also be done next year, maybe all of it. *Zantrex 3000 charger/inverter with solar help on the roof, OK for wet cell or gels but not both at once. *The boat was set up for 4 months each year in the Abacos. *If I came across a real deal on a hydraulic bow thruster or windlass, I might change out both.
-- Edited by healhustler on Thursday 13th of October 2011 07:43:19 PM
Walt, my bow wave doesn't go very far aft, and the floor of the anchor-chain locker isn't very far from the waterline.* Marin, draining the locker into the bilge is another alternative I'm considering.* Welcome the input!
-- Edited by markpierce on Thursday 13th of October 2011 07:53:27 PM
Mark--- I would not recommend draining the anchor locker into the bilge of your boat for two reasons. One, you have a steel-hulled boat and water inside a steel hull is what kills them. A dry bilge is a must on a steel boat if you want to avoid eventual rusting, pinholing, etc. Perhaps not in the time you own it but eventually.
Two, as I recall from comments over time on TF, the bottoms of SFO Bay, the delta, and the river(s) are largely comprised of mud and muck. Unless you are set up and prepared to rinse and scrub your anchor rode REALLY well every time you pull it up, mud and muck will drain off the rode in the locker along with the water and the result in your bilge can be a really Bad Smell.
So if it was me, I would place the drain higher up or with a different configuration that doesn't take in water and continue to drain it overboard, not into the bilge.
Marin, you're right, you're right, you're right.* While I do have a freshwater outlet at the bow for rinsing the anchor chain, I agree it's best to keep water out of the bilge.* Still, the shower drains into the bilge and the amount of water that would enter the locker through the anchor chain hole would be minor.* (The Coot has two bilges/electric pumps.* The deepest is below the engine room and the other is under the forward cabin.* Both have float valves.* There's also a manual pump up.)
Is it possible to drain the locker into a receptacle large enough to house a float switch? Then an external pump can be automatically activated to completely purge the tank via a tube mounted at the lowest point of the tank. This way the mucky water stays isolated from the steel hull, contained and immediately pumped overboard via an appropriately sized and located through-hull.
Mark--- All I know about the care and feeding of steel boats comes from friends who, when I met them, had a 70' converted steel fireboat which they sold a few years later to buy a surplus 60' LCM landing craft (steel) so they could start a barge service in the San Juan Islands. But they were almost anal about keeping a totally dry bilge in both their boats.
If it was me, I would not want even the shower draining into the bilge. First of all, you then have moisture if not water itself in the bilge. Bilge pumps can't get it all out. The only way to get every drop out is to vacuum it out (or mop it out). Better, in my opinon, not to let any water get into the bilge in the first place.
And second, shower water wil eventually start to stink unless you get all of it out every time. Again, a bilge pump will get most of it out but the very nature of the pump and its plumbing prevents the removal of all the water. Our GB, even though it's glass not steel, has a sump under the shower grate with a hose from the sump drain to a pump, and a hose from the pump to a through-hull. This is the arrangement I would want on your boat.
Our friends with the fireboat and then the LCM fabricated deep, stainless steel pans that fit under the shaft logs. Any water dripping out of the logs ended up in the pans which they emptied periodically. So not even the shaft log "drippings" ended up in the bilge.
Marin and Al, I'm going to discuss directly*the additional tank*and pump for collecting and disposing any locker and shower water with the KKMI project manager tomorrow.* Blackberry (his) communications this evening*makes it sound doable.* Dang right!* Avoid all water contact from the interior of the hull.
Our GB, even though it's glass not steel, has a sump under the shower grate with a hose from the sump drain to a pump, and a hose from the pump to a through-hull.
******** My boat also has the sump below the shower floor but in the middle of the companionway with a nice teak & holly hatch cover. The sump comes complete with a float switch and pump. Note: Some models come with multiple inlets so as to accommodate more than one drain source.*marine shower sumps - The hatch looks like this and the sump is directly below it in the bilge.
-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Thursday 13th of October 2011 10:24:10 PM
Our fiberglass shower sump is directly under the teak grate that is the shower "stall" floor. We don't have a separate shower stall, just a curtained off area of the aft head. When the GB36 got all-new molds in 1988 the boat got a bit bigger and could then accomodate a separate shower stall.
So when we take a shower, the water goes thorugh the grate into the sump pan and the drain in the lowest corner is connected to the pump in the engine room. A previous owner had installed a float switch that would automatically activate the shower pump when the level in the sum reached a certain level but we disconnected it since it would not let the pump completely empty the sump. So you finish your shower, hit the switch, and the pump empties out all the shower water. Nice, simple system.
Mark:* Have you gone back to the*builder or*the individual manufacturer?* The engine sensors, engine water pump, bow thruster electronics?* Surely those are covered under warranty or it doesn't say much for the builder standing behind his product.*
Mark's "commissioning" list may seem daunting but I've seen longer with big name vessels. Mark, I suggest you double check options for anchor locker drain keeping in mind the previously mentioned corrosion issues including the galvanized chain lying against bare steel.*It would be nice to be set up to hose out your locker every spring and fall so any drain pump must have some muscle.
My haul out/maintenance list for next week is:
Clean and paint bottom
Install new zincs on shafts, thruster and stern plate
Install line cutters ( thanks to the voters on TF - but I get to pay!)
Install new lip seals on stabilizers (every 3 years)
Since the locker is very deep, the current plan is to install a fiberglass tub whose bottom will be at least 10" higher than the existing floor, and thus raise the drain entrance that much higher above the waterline.
There is a heavy-duty hatch door to make sure the chain doesn't enter further into the boat's interior.
A positive fix for the anchor locker drain is to install a drain out the bottom of the anchor locker, attach a hose, run the hose approximately level w boat at rest to a discharge amidships. Note Walt's avatar pic and see that his water line drops amidships. Everybody's does. I assume the bottom of the anchor locker is above the water line. If not I'd consider draining the anchor locker into the shower drain sump and plugging the present drain hole.
-- Edited by nomadwilly on Tuesday 18th of October 2011 09:07:18 AM
Eric, those two options were considered.* Running the drain line to midships was a runner up, but the current locker floor is too close to the waterline.* If raising the floor doesn't work, I'll probably do the midship solution.