Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 10-13-2011, 07:01 PM   #21
Scraping Paint
 
City: -
Country: -
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,748
RE: Repairs so far this year

The anchor locker drains on newer GBs are similar in position to Walt's. Older GBs, like ours, simply drained the anchor locker into the bilge so have no external drain fitting at all. A drain down by the waterline would seem to be a bad idea, particularly on a slow boat, as this opening will be underwater all the time.
__________________
Advertisement

Marin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2011, 07:40 PM   #22
Guru
 
healhustler's Avatar
 
City: Longboat Key, FL
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Bucky
Vessel Model: Krogen Manatee 36 North Sea
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,181
Repairs so far this year

Quote:
skipperdude wrote:healhustler wrote:
-New twin 8D house batteries
*Man I have one 8D for my house I run a TV to watch movies The Espar and the Garmin almost continually. I have yet to run anything down to a need to charge.

Do you anchor out a lot?

Have you ever run the 8D's down?

SD

*Skip: *My decision to replace the old 8D's with fresh units was a purely patronizing one to not change the system before I understood it. *The windlass and bow thruster have 20 -25 ft. runs of cable on these batteries in addition to the house draw, and the old ones were shot. *I plan on cruising full time in two years, and at that time, I'll likely can the 8D's for smaller, more efficient NO MAINT. gels. *I gotta tell ya, I can still handle and lift and 8D, but I'm wondering if I'll be able to swap them out next time by myself. *They're not in an easy location. *Meanwhile, I'm redoing each system on the boat my way so there's no doubts. *My guess is that lots of new wiring will also be done next year, maybe all of it. *Zantrex 3000 charger/inverter with solar help on the roof, OK for wet cell or gels but not both at once. *The boat was set up for 4 months each year in the Abacos. *If I came across a real deal on a hydraulic bow thruster or windlass, I might change out both.


-- Edited by healhustler on Thursday 13th of October 2011 07:43:19 PM
__________________

healhustler is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2011, 07:45 PM   #23
Master and Commander
 
markpierce's Avatar
 
City: Vallejo CA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Carquinez Coot
Vessel Model: 2011 Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,265
Repairs so far this year

Walt, my bow wave doesn't go very far aft, and the floor of the anchor-chain locker isn't very far from the waterline.* Marin, draining the locker into the bilge is another alternative I'm considering.* Welcome the input!


-- Edited by markpierce on Thursday 13th of October 2011 07:53:27 PM
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	dsc02700.jpg
Views:	47
Size:	98.4 KB
ID:	7946  
markpierce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2011, 07:52 PM   #24
Scraping Paint
 
City: -
Country: -
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,748
RE: Repairs so far this year

Mark--- I would not recommend draining the anchor locker into the bilge of your boat for two reasons. One, you have a steel-hulled boat and water inside a steel hull is what kills them. A dry bilge is a must on a steel boat if you want to avoid eventual rusting, pinholing, etc. Perhaps not in the time you own it but eventually.

Two, as I recall from comments over time on TF, the bottoms of SFO Bay, the delta, and the river(s) are largely comprised of mud and muck. Unless you are set up and prepared to rinse and scrub your anchor rode REALLY well every time you pull it up, mud and muck will drain off the rode in the locker along with the water and the result in your bilge can be a really Bad Smell.

So if it was me, I would place the drain higher up or with a different configuration that doesn't take in water and continue to drain it overboard, not into the bilge.
Marin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2011, 08:04 PM   #25
Master and Commander
 
markpierce's Avatar
 
City: Vallejo CA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Carquinez Coot
Vessel Model: 2011 Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,265
RE: Repairs so far this year

Marin, you're right, you're right, you're right.* While I do have a freshwater outlet at the bow for rinsing the anchor chain, I agree it's best to keep water out of the bilge.* Still, the shower drains into the bilge and the amount of water that would enter the locker through the anchor chain hole would be minor.* (The Coot has two bilges/electric pumps.* The deepest is below the engine room and the other is under the forward cabin.* Both have float valves.* There's also a manual pump up.)
markpierce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2011, 08:10 PM   #26
TF Site Team
 
FlyWright's Avatar
 
City: California Delta and SF Bay
Country: Sacramento, CA, USA (boat in Vallejo)
Vessel Name: FlyWright
Vessel Model: Marshall Californian 34 LRC
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 10,185
RE: Repairs so far this year

Is it possible to drain the locker into a receptacle large enough to house a float switch? Then an external pump can be automatically activated to completely purge the tank via a tube mounted at the lowest point of the tank. This way the mucky water stays isolated from the steel hull, contained and immediately pumped overboard via an appropriately sized and located through-hull.
FlyWright is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2011, 08:13 PM   #27
Master and Commander
 
markpierce's Avatar
 
City: Vallejo CA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Carquinez Coot
Vessel Model: 2011 Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,265
RE: Repairs so far this year

Al, that's a workable but higher-cost option.* If I did it, I'd want to have the shower drain into the tank also.
markpierce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2011, 08:45 PM   #28
Scraping Paint
 
City: -
Country: -
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,748
RE: Repairs so far this year

Mark--- All I know about the care and feeding of steel boats comes from friends who, when I met them, had a 70' converted steel fireboat which they sold a few years later to buy a surplus 60' LCM landing craft (steel) so they could start a barge service in the San Juan Islands. But they were almost anal about keeping a totally dry bilge in both their boats.

If it was me, I would not want even the shower draining into the bilge. First of all, you then have moisture if not water itself in the bilge. Bilge pumps can't get it all out. The only way to get every drop out is to vacuum it out (or mop it out). Better, in my opinon, not to let any water get into the bilge in the first place.

And second, shower water wil eventually start to stink unless you get all of it out every time. Again, a bilge pump will get most of it out but the very nature of the pump and its plumbing prevents the removal of all the water. Our GB, even though it's glass not steel, has a sump under the shower grate with a hose from the sump drain to a pump, and a hose from the pump to a through-hull. This is the arrangement I would want on your boat.

Our friends with the fireboat and then the LCM fabricated deep, stainless steel pans that fit under the shaft logs. Any water dripping out of the logs ended up in the pans which they emptied periodically. So not even the shaft log "drippings" ended up in the bilge.
Marin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2011, 09:05 PM   #29
Master and Commander
 
markpierce's Avatar
 
City: Vallejo CA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Carquinez Coot
Vessel Model: 2011 Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,265
RE: Repairs so far this year

Marin and Al, I'm going to discuss directly*the additional tank*and pump for collecting and disposing any locker and shower water with the KKMI project manager tomorrow.* Blackberry (his) communications this evening*makes it sound doable.* Dang right!* Avoid all water contact from the interior of the hull.
markpierce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2011, 09:51 PM   #30
Guru
 
Codger2's Avatar
 
City: San Diego
Country: US
Vessel Name: "Sandpiper"
Vessel Model: 2006 42' Ocean Alexander Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,421
Repairs so far this year

Quote:
Marin wrote:
Our GB, even though it's glass not steel, has a sump under the shower grate with a hose from the sump drain to a pump, and a hose from the pump to a through-hull.
******** My boat also has the sump below the shower floor but in the middle of the companionway with a nice teak & holly hatch cover. The sump comes complete with a float switch and pump. Note: Some models come with multiple inlets so as to accommodate more than one drain source.*marine shower sumps - The hatch looks like this and the sump is directly below it in the bilge.






-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Thursday 13th of October 2011 10:24:10 PM
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	sower sumps.jpg
Views:	50
Size:	49.0 KB
ID:	7961  
Attached Images
 
Codger2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2011, 10:16 PM   #31
Scraping Paint
 
City: -
Country: -
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,748
RE: Repairs so far this year

Our fiberglass shower sump is directly under the teak grate that is the shower "stall" floor. We don't have a separate shower stall, just a curtained off area of the aft head. When the GB36 got all-new molds in 1988 the boat got a bit bigger and could then accomodate a separate shower stall.

So when we take a shower, the water goes thorugh the grate into the sump pan and the drain in the lowest corner is connected to the pump in the engine room. A previous owner had installed a float switch that would automatically activate the shower pump when the level in the sum reached a certain level but we disconnected it since it would not let the pump completely empty the sump. So you finish your shower, hit the switch, and the pump empties out all the shower water. Nice, simple system.
Marin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2011, 10:19 PM   #32
Master and Commander
 
markpierce's Avatar
 
City: Vallejo CA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Carquinez Coot
Vessel Model: 2011 Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,265
RE: Repairs so far this year

Let's all say "shower sump pump" rapidly seven times!
markpierce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2011, 03:55 AM   #33
FF
Guru
 
FF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,531
RE: Repairs so far this year

The Avatar shows it all, ripped off sagging flat Mainiac PH roof and installed one with proper camber.

This winter I will re do the main salon overhead , and re install all the vents etc.
FF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 12:01 AM   #34
Master and Commander
 
markpierce's Avatar
 
City: Vallejo CA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Carquinez Coot
Vessel Model: 2011 Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,265
RE: Repairs so far this year

Quote:
markpierce wrote:
Replace engine sensors

Replace engine water pump

Replace windshield wiper blades

Rebed port forward portion of stainless steel strip on rub rail

Replace bow thruster electronics

Apply primer to portions of hull bottom

To do:

Re-engineer chain-locker drain

Address "singing" propeller issue

Redo flag halyards
*Gee, it's $7000+ and counting.
markpierce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 06:47 AM   #35
TF Site Team
 
Larry M's Avatar
 
City: JAX, FL
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Hobo
Vessel Model: Krogen 42-120
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,745
RE: Repairs so far this year

Mark:* Have you gone back to the*builder or*the individual manufacturer?* The engine sensors, engine water pump, bow thruster electronics?* Surely those are covered under warranty or it doesn't say much for the builder standing behind his product.*
Larry M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 08:26 AM   #36
Master and Commander
 
markpierce's Avatar
 
City: Vallejo CA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Carquinez Coot
Vessel Model: 2011 Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,265
Repairs so far this year

We'll see once I get an itemized bill and send it the builder..


-- Edited by markpierce on Tuesday 18th of October 2011 08:28:50 AM
markpierce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 08:30 AM   #37
Guru
 
City: Carefree, Arizona
Country: usa
Vessel Name: sunchaser V
Vessel Model: DeFever 48
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,372
RE: Repairs so far this year

Mark's "commissioning" list may seem daunting but I've seen longer with big name vessels. Mark, I suggest you double check options for anchor locker drain keeping in mind the previously mentioned corrosion issues including the galvanized chain lying against bare steel.*It would be nice to be set up to hose out your locker every spring and fall so any drain pump must have some muscle.

My haul out/maintenance list for next week is:
  1. Clean and paint bottom
  2. Install new zincs on shafts, thruster and stern plate
  3. Install line cutters ( thanks to the voters on TF - but I get to pay!)
  4. Install new lip seals on stabilizers (every 3 years)
  5. Rebuild steering cylinder
  6. Complete varnish on cap rails
And this is only next week.
sunchaser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 09:05 AM   #38
Master and Commander
 
markpierce's Avatar
 
City: Vallejo CA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Carquinez Coot
Vessel Model: 2011 Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,265
RE: Repairs so far this year

Since the locker is very deep, the current plan is to install a fiberglass tub whose bottom will be at least 10" higher than the existing floor, and thus raise the drain entrance that much higher above the waterline.

There is a heavy-duty hatch door to make sure the chain doesn't enter further into the boat's interior.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	anchor hatch.jpg
Views:	51
Size:	36.2 KB
ID:	8056  
markpierce is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 09:05 AM   #39
Guru
 
Nomad Willy's Avatar
 
City: Concrete Washington State
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,719
Repairs so far this year

A positive fix for the anchor locker drain is to install a drain out the bottom of the anchor locker, attach a hose, run the hose approximately level w boat at rest to a discharge amidships. Note Walt's avatar pic and see that his water line drops amidships. Everybody's does. I assume the bottom of the anchor locker is above the water line. If not I'd consider draining the anchor locker into the shower drain sump and plugging the present drain hole.


-- Edited by nomadwilly on Tuesday 18th of October 2011 09:07:18 AM
Nomad Willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2011, 09:14 AM   #40
Master and Commander
 
markpierce's Avatar
 
City: Vallejo CA
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Carquinez Coot
Vessel Model: 2011 Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,265
RE: Repairs so far this year

Eric, those two options were considered.* Running the drain line to midships was a runner up, but the current locker floor is too close to the waterline.* If raising the floor doesn't work, I'll probably do the midship solution.
__________________

markpierce is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Gel Coat Repairs marinetrader General Maintenance 13 07-04-2016 07:22 PM
Its that time of year dwhatty General Discussion 31 12-28-2011 08:53 AM
See you next year? markpierce General Discussion 9 09-27-2010 07:32 PM
Older ITT night scope repairs Keith Electrical and Electronics & Navigation 0 06-01-2010 01:12 PM
Happy New Year! Daddyo General Discussion 2 01-03-2010 12:31 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012