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Old 10-25-2016, 02:08 PM   #141
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As a quick follow-up on this subject. After running 3300 miles up and down the Inside passage this past summer, the old style packing performed very well. Only had to adjust once. The port side is starting to leak and it has the G-packing in it too I would suspect. I'll be pulling the boat in March and will re-pack it with the old style packing.
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Old 10-25-2016, 03:38 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by Alaskan Sea-Duction View Post
As a quick follow-up on this subject. After running 3300 miles up and down the Inside passage this past summer, the old style packing performed very well. Only had to adjust once. The port side is starting to leak and it has the G-packing in it too I would suspect. I'll be pulling the boat in March and will re-pack it with the old style packing.
Why?

Just repack it with GFO and forget it for a few years or more.
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Old 10-25-2016, 04:50 PM   #143
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Why?

Just repack it with GFO and forget it for a few years or more.
Well I should have done both sides last year and didn't. Goes on the to-do list
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Old 10-25-2016, 04:58 PM   #144
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repack
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Old 11-14-2016, 06:09 PM   #145
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I have terrible access to my rudder posts and after fighting them for years installed PSS dripless seals. I'm completely happy with them, and with the same seals on my drive shafts. The failure mode on dripless seals is usually heat which isn't an issue for rudders.
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Old 11-15-2016, 08:06 AM   #146
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Dripless is great. But install them when you are already going to pull and check your shaft(s) anyway. Makes you feel better about the cost. Make sure you install engine water feed to cool/lube them. Make sure proper fittings are used. Understand how they work and in the case of PSS, the correct way to clean the surface annually to keep the drips at bay.
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Old 11-15-2016, 08:20 AM   #147
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"The failure mode on dripless seals is usually heat which isn't an issue for rudders."


- or fatigue
- or contamination
- or a strike on the propeller or rudder
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Old 11-15-2016, 11:46 AM   #148
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There is a lot of good advice on how to repack the packing gland. The only additional suggestion I have is that I take the plastic bag that cleaners use to return your shirts in, and as I draw back the packing nut I immediately wrap the shaft log with the plastic bag and then take some light twine to tie it up and the water inflow generally stops or goes to a mere trickle. Then you can take out the old flax or just add new or whatever you have decided to do for your "repack" without getting anxious about the inflow of water. You will have a lot less stress, particularly if its your first time changing the packing while in the water. Beside the cleaner's plastic bag that I use, probably kitchen plastic wrap would work as well. After the packing nut is ready just take off the plastic and re-thread your nut back on the shaft and you are finished.

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Old 11-18-2016, 10:06 PM   #149
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Repack. Modern synthetic materials last indefinitely.
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Old 11-20-2016, 10:48 AM   #150
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OK I am now convinced to repack. Should I seek out a yard to pull me out and repack it or have someone come to the boat and repack while in the water?
It depends on the cost. I suspect it would be less expensive to have a pro do it in the water than to have the boat hauled, but you should get prices for each and then decide.
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Old 11-20-2016, 03:23 PM   #151
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It depends on the cost. I suspect it would be less expensive to have a pro do it in the water than to have the boat hauled, but you should get prices for each and then decide.
No one would come to the boat, so I pulled the boat and replaced it. Easy job. It was my annual maintenance haul out anyway so no worries
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Old 11-23-2016, 07:20 AM   #152
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If the adjustment is just about bottomed out, why not just add another ring and snug back up? Approximately 70% of the sealing comes from the two rings closest to the gland follower anyways. The bottom rings are more or less spacers as they see very little compression.

Use a square braided yarn made of GFO or ePTFE.
This is the way I do it and have for years. Just pre-cut your packing rings and stagger the the cut points so no two line up. I am not a fan of drip-less packing glands. If you have a drip-less packing gland and it starts to leak, you are SOL. If your old packing leaks, just tighten it so you get just a few drips per minute through the gland. The drips help keep your packing lubed and cool as you use it. Remember some times the old ways are the best ways. HTH JD
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Old 11-23-2016, 07:47 AM   #153
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Using GFO is the best, most durable, worry free, cheapest and easiest solution.
Keeps your original hardware, and can pack it without hauling the hull, and don't need to have water injection or mechanics install, time and labor add up.
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