Rebuilding a Dock for Alaskan Sea-Duction

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Well this is the first step into retirement for me and the Admiral. We purchased a dock in SW Washington on the Lower Columbia River. This is special because these types of docks are never available (and the State is not allowing new construction) and we were in the right place at the right time. Once it became known the dock was available, there were a few folks that tried to undercut us and offer the owners more than we had agreed upon, but the owners are of good character and upheld there side of the deal.

This has been an 8-month ordeal for us. The main reason was that in the State of Washington if you have a dock, you do not own the land under the dock as this is owned by the state. You must lease this land from the state and there are all these different rules and regulations. The lease is for 12 years and is renewable so long as you follow the requirements, so in short we purchase the strip of land on the bank, and then have the privilege of having access to our dock. My lease covers a square 100' wide, by 85' into the water.

This important first step as we are also going to buy a larger (44-60ft) boat and want to have a nice place to put it in the winter. Summers will be spent in the Inside passage and Puget Sound.

So far I have been able to burn off the old dried up vegetation on the bank, re-wired the electrical box so i could have power on the dock and replaced the water line. This past weekend I stripped half of the main dock (40') inspected it and placed additional floatation (plastic barrels) under the logs. This week I will be pricing out pressure treated (PT) lumber.

I will build upon the frame that is already there. First I will place some 6 X 6 X 10 footers over the existing 4 X 8s that are there. I will pre-drill them and install big long lag bolts clear down into the log. Then I will place PT 4 X 4 over the 6 X 6s to create the deck framing. At the same time I will also build 4 X 4 housings for the log pilings, then screw down 2 X 8 X 10 footers for the deck. Instead of cleats here in the PNW they use 4 X 4 and run them down the entire length of the dock for tie downs. This is nice as you can tie up anywhere on the dock. Will keep the blog updated.

So join us on our adventure. Admiral has already caught a steelhead off the dock, see pic) I will be updated our blog and this thread just about every weekend. Feel free to ask questions and as always advice.

Here is the blog:

Alaskan Sea-Duction

 

[FF]

Having built a number of docks the most important tool you can have is a slow speed (3/8 is OK )hi torque slow speed electric drill and a couple of long bits that pull themselves into the wood.

Usually used with the older woodworkers "Brace & Bit" style , the ability to clamp the lumber , hammer it right where it should be , drill a hole for 12 or 14 bolts with one hand , and then hammer the bolt in is invaluable.

Beware on old wood , the bits don't like old nails.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Having built a number of docks the most important tool you can have is a slow speed (3/8 is OK )hi torque slow speed electric drill and a couple of long bits that pull themselves into the wood.

Usually used with the older woodworkers "Brace & Bit" style , the ability to clamp the lumber , hammer it right where it should be , drill a hole for 12 or 14 bolts with one hand , and then hammer the bolt in is invaluable.

Beware on old wood , the bits don't like old nails.

Thank you. Good advice.

 

[CPseudonym]

I have a Home Depot purchased Milwaukee right angle drill that turns at 500 rpm. It will turn those bits Fred recommends above all day long with no strain for the operator. Leverage is your friend. Best $240 I ever spent.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

I have a Home Depot purchased Milwaukee right angle drill that turns at 500 rpm. It will turn those bits Fred recommends above all day long with no strain for the operator. Leverage is your friend. Best $240 I ever spent.

Thanks. I will look for one.

 

[Moonfish]

Is your nice new dock located in Ridgefield?

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Is your nice new dock located in Ridgefield?

Longview....

 

[FF]

As a safety , should you drop the electric drill, Hubbel makes a GFI extension cord / box that might help.

IF you prefer cordless , the right angle drills are geared much lower to drill holes in studs with spade bits.

Studs are new and dry so a spade bit works , Not so on pilings or treated lumber.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Thanks FF. I just spent $3200 on pressure treated lumber to be delivered next week. This is only for the 80' dock portion. Still have the 2 other docks and gang plank, but once it is done it will be done.

 

[bligh]

stck with the electric milwalkee right angle drill. get the one that has the clutch in case it gets away from you. dont worry about the gfi, its double insulated so if you drop it in the water you can just return it to home depot for a new one. btw this is the drill you should get.. Milwaukee 1/2 in. Super Hawg Drill-1680-21 at The Home Depot .
when you use it with ship auger bit (electicians favor these bits) make sure you clear the wood chips often . dont rty to drill through those beams in one pass.
also dont forget your plumbig ans elecrical before you install your deck boards.
scott

 

[FF]

Frequently you will have bolts (dip galvanised , not flash coated) that are too long.

Sure the proper bolt would be better and save 10c per inch of excess , but brequire a trip to the bolt store.

To tighten them a socket wrench works till the socket is too short.

The solution is the style of box wrench that has a ratchet in the head.

Just one will probably be required as most folks use one size bolt.

We use 1/2in carriage bolts and a 3/4 wrench is all thats needed.

Use hot dipped nuts and washers too, even if its a PIA to go find the real stuff.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Great info thanks

 

[C lectric]

I've spent many a day drilling for bolts on docks too for our club docks.
Even with a good ships auger with the screw tip, a heavy duty drill it was stilll necessary to pull the drill most of the way out of the hole to clear the chips or it would jam. Those chips act like a wedge. I never stopped the drill, just started pulling upward which would pull the screw tip free and the chips would keep moving up the the drill. When there was about 2-3" left in the hole down it would go again.

Faster than pulling all the way out and no need to fight to get the tip back into the hole.
We were drilling for 3/4" bolts and through up to 24" of wood.

We had several Makitas. The drill I liked the best though was an OLD Black and Decker. It barely slowed and never got hot. However, there are other good drills out there and Milwaukee is one.
Have fun.

 

[Northern Spy]

80'. That's a pretty big float! Lucky you.

I have yet to meet anyone who has used a HoleHawg for any length of time who hasn't injured themselves in a unique way. Be sure to share your story...

 

[CPseudonym]

Be sure to share your story...

Half way up an 8' ladder the 3 5/8" wood bit stopped turning but the clutch equipped hole hog didn't. I made a complete 360 degree rotation with the drill motor and when my feet touched the ladder I let go and fell off.

$240 at Home Depot later it never happened again. Like I said above, leverage is your friend.

 

[Peter B]

Half way up an 8' ladder the 3 5/8" wood bit stopped turning but the clutch equipped hole hog didn't. I made a complete 360 degree rotation with the drill motor and when my feet touched the ladder I let go and fell off......

Man, that must have looked a sight. Oh to have captured that on video Craig...
Would be a pushover to win the "funniest clips and videos" comp.

 

[Hendo78]

Half way up an 8' ladder the 3 5/8" wood bit stopped turning but the clutch equipped hole hog didn't. I made a complete 360 degree rotation with the drill motor and when my feet touched the ladder I let go and fell off.

$240 at Home Depot later it never happened again. Like I said above, leverage is your friend.

BWAHAHAHA. Oh man what a mental image I had. I have a similar story happen to me when I was a 4th year apprentice carpenter. To set the scene, I was on a roof installing guttering spikes. The roof was at a 35 degree angle, I was lying down the roof with my chest/head hanging over the edge of the house, almost like going head first down a slide. Drilling into 100x50 seasoned jarrah with a two speed makita high torque drill. I was drilling back towards me and ultimately was using the drill backwards. The drill bit grabbed and stopped spinning, the drill itself began to spin and with my current roof position saw my lifted off the roof an thrown to the ground. Felt sad and sorry for myself then but PMSL at myself when I think about it lol

Sent from my iPhone using Trawler

 

[bligh]

80'. That's a pretty big float! Lucky you.

I have yet to meet anyone who has used a HoleHawg for any length of time who hasn't injured themselves in a unique way. Be sure to share your story...

I am a plumber by trade. I worked with hole hawgs on a daily basis drilling large holes. I have not lost any teeth, but I have had smashed and broken fingers, black eyes, fat lips, stitches (once i had the drill resting on my lap, and somehow accidentally activated the trigger with the cord and it drilled into my thigh), sprained back etc. the funny thing is that I am a safe operator and I feel I have avoided serious injury because I am safe, but even so, the drill itself is dangerous and over 20 years or so, injuries still occurred, and some were due to negligence.

I once saw an apprentice knock himself out cold with one.

Safety and leverage are your friends. If you are on a ladder use the largest most stable ladder you can. Re-arrange the ladder if you dont feel safe. Remember the drill can bounce you around at any time. Take the time to build scaffolding if you can. the drilling will go much faster and will be safer. Keep your hands where they will not get smahed if the drill grabs and starts to spin. (that one always hurts) Where good leather gloves. Remember to take out the chuck before you start drilling (that one is my most common mistake and really smarts.) Always use a sharp bit. If you encounter a nail, use a hole saw to free it up or your self feeding bit is toast. But I dont think you are drilling very large holes. Just keep a supply of sharp bits on hand and you should be ok.

Im not an osha representative, just speaking from experience.

 

[Moonstruck]

I had a guy drilling through studs with a long auger bit. The bit hit a nail, and threw him around in a 360. I saw one of our pumbers drill through joist while on a ladder with a hole saw. The only thing that kept him for doing a 360 was slamming up against the floor system. He dropped from the ceiling without using the ladder.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Found a Milwaulkie at HD for $249. I will be drilling 135 holes for just the 80' dock. Lumber will be dilvered on Tuesday. Then I came to the realization I had not ordered any hardware! auggggggg

135 5/8 x 16" long and another 150 1/2 x 6" man this sucks and will be a nice dime...

 

[FF]

With the hardware be sure to get some big clamps to hold stuff while you drill.

Double headed nails don't work as well as you cant tap the lumber a bit for the best , most level fit.

Depending on what your building the most common method is to install the piles first .

Join the piles along the outer edge , then join the piles on the other dock edge.

A string will help the install the outer edge , but a long level is also required .

Use a straight board and level from outer edge to inner edge when installing the second (near land ) edge, not just a string.

When the two sides of the dock are bolted to their piles its time for the boards under the dock that tie the outside pilings to the inner ones.

These are simply lifted in place under the first lumber and held with clamps till bolted .

With larger boats two boards , one either side of the piles will be more substantial.

Should a center support be required under the planking it is installed next , using nailed parts to hold them in place . Look in the joist hanger section of the store , and only use real Joist Hangar hardened nails..

I there is scrap from cut offs using it as blocking between these deck supports , it will be easy and almost free.

Now the deck can simply be laid down, and screwed in.SS screws are good , and as the screw heads will be noticed , snap a chalk line for best eye candy.SS is very soft so pre-drilling (just use 2 drills) might be less wasteful of the soft SS.screws

The deck costs about the same but 2x8 seem to last longer than 2x6 .

Beware if using plastic decking as for much foot traffic the under supports must be 12 inches apart, so a second or third support member might be needed on top of the lumber that ties the piles together.

This is esp true if heavy carts with gear or an occasional 8D battery or tranny are part of the dock traffic

Have fun , its a bunch of work but not that hard to build Eye Candy.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Thanks FF. The dock is a log dock and is already around pilings. I have stripped the dock down to the 4 x 10 x 8' that hold the logs together. The logs are in good shape and I have used plastic barrels to add floatation and stability. I will be starting with 6 x 6 10', then add a 4 x 4 frame, then running 2 x 8 x 10' across the dock so it will now be 10' wide. All of this is pressure treated lumber. Have all the lumber ordered, then came to the realization this weekend I hadn't ordered any hardware, so I will be busy tomorrow.

 

[FF]

For big breezes a trick we use in FL is to install land pins.

This is a pile sunk with a post hole digger about 5 ft into the soil, usually 25 or 30 ft in away from the water.

Only a foot sticks out and with bow and stern lines as well as crossed lines fore and aft a huge load is passed inshore , and not to the dock.

Even in a well protected Hurricane Hole after 100 K anything & everything helps!

 

[portager]

Don't forget to take and post pictures.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

For big breezes a trick we use in FL is to install land pins.

This is a pile sunk with a post hole digger about 5 ft into the soil, usually 25 or 30 ft in away from the water.

Only a foot sticks out and with bow and stern lines as well as crossed lines fore and aft a huge load is passed inshore , and not to the dock.

Even in a well protected Hurricane Hole after 100 K anything & everything helps!

Great idea, but there is very little soill on the side of the dike. Mostly rock and the red tape I would have to jump through, like DNR, US Corps, County and State. It is on a back slough of the Columbia River, so the biggest thing to worry about is the tital effects from the Pacific 70 miles away and condition of the pilings. I have 2 (out of 5) that will be replaced next year with steel. Currently I have wood.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Don't forget to take and post pictures.

You can see pics here:

Alaskan Sea-Duction

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Well my lumber has arrived. Those 6 x 6 x 10s are heavy.... I ordered my hardware which is being shipped out of Missouri. I found ordering from these guys is more than 1/2 the cost had I bought them from places like Lowes or H.D. I have 130 5/8 x 16" and 200 1/2 x 6" galvanized lag bolts and washers coming. Hoping to have it by the 5th. I am still spend over $500 for bolts and washers. I will be drilling pilot holes for the bolts and bought me a 1/2" low speed, high torque drill with auger bits. A friend of mine just brought over a huge 3/4 drive electric impact that should drive the screws in very nicely. This should be fun. Go to the blog if you want pics.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Well I am half done (40') of the 80' dock. Just waiting on hardware for the railing. Will start on the other 40' next week. Pics here:
Alaskan Sea-Duction

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

This is where I ordered my hardware. Safed big big $$$ when compared to Lowes and HD.

https://www.wholesalebolts.com/

 

[FlyWright]

You're making great progress, ASD. Nice work!