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Old 05-28-2014, 06:50 PM   #21
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The wear plate is the part that bends the blades and "pumps" the water out, correct? We noticed that part and as we had never taken one apart we "conjured up" that that was what it did... Doesnt look like it can come out on mine... but it may... it certainly didnt come out while it was apart...
The wear plate is behind the impeller and is usually stainless steel, if your pump is a Shurwood, it doesn't have one. The part you are talking about is the cam. If it was removed, it should have sealant, gasket cement put on it where it meets the housing. Otherwise it can draw air under it and keep you from priming up quickly.
Make sure the pump cover is refinished flat and your gasket is no thicker than a greased phome book page. Then start looking for a suction leak between the pump inlet and the thru-hull. Even a small one can upset priming your system if your pump is weak.
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Old 05-28-2014, 06:57 PM   #22
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The wear plate is behind the impeller and is usually stainless steel, if your pump is a Shurwood, it doesn't have one. The part you are talking about is the cam. If it was removed, it should have sealant, gasket cement put on it where it meets the housing. Otherwise it can draw air under it and keep you from priming up quickly.
Make sure the pump cover is refinished flat and your gasket is no thicker than a greased phome book page. Then start looking for a suction leak between the pump inlet and the thru-hull. Even a small one can upset priming your system if your pump is weak.

All I removed was the over plate and the rubber impeller, everything else was as it was before.

I have a feeling its the gasket or and air leak like you said.


The other possibility I am leaning towards is that the ball valve i put in is taller then the old failed gate valve i replaced... but I did the same to the other engine and I would think that it would have the same problem too if that was the case... they are mirror images of each other...
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:04 PM   #23
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The inside of the houseing was nice and smooth
The inside of a bad pump will look nice and smooth. :-) You really have to test it.

What does the impeller side of the cover plate look like?
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:08 PM   #24
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The other possibility I am leaning towards is that the ball valve i put in is taller then the old failed gate valve i replaced... but I did the same to the other engine and I would think that it would have the same problem too if that was the case... they are mirror images of each other...
Unless the valve is now above the water line, which I highly doubt, that is not you're problem. And even if it was the pump should have no problem sucking up water from it to prime it's self.
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Old 05-29-2014, 02:47 PM   #25
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The real question is; did the engine and pump work before you worked on it?

If so, the problem is not caused by wear, it's something you did. Go back and check your work. Check it again if you have to. Have someone else check it.

Did you change the gasket on both pumps? Did you use the same type of gasket? If so and one works, it's not the gasket.
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:26 PM   #26
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The real question is; did the engine and pump work before you worked on it?

If so, the problem is not caused by wear, it's something you did. Go back and check your work. Check it again if you have to. Have someone else check it.

Did you change the gasket on both pumps? Did you use the same type of gasket? If so and one works, it's not the gasket.

Thats what I believe! And thats my usual operating motto.. I ALWAYS figured it was something I screwed up...LOL It was totally working BEFORE I messed with it...

Only changed the gasket on the one pump (not working now) and had the water lines off the one non functioning cooling system.... so my plan is to replace the gasket with the MUCH thinner one made of something like a phone book page and oil (as thats what the old one looked like when we removed it, we remarked at how "bogus: it was cuz it was so thin...LOL) and I will tighten up the hose clamps to make sure its not leaking...

I also added the new ball valve which is a bit taller then the old Gate valve. But I changed that on the other one as well. The taller aspect may be a problem, but the other side is identical and it works fine...
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:19 PM   #27
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Seems to me that if the strainer is filling, then the new valve must be working. I'd test the pump output by pulling the discharge hose off for a minute & running the engine; flow should be good. If not I'd suspect the gasket. If flow is good, you may have blockage elsewhere. The unit has to have a good side seal inside the cover plate to work well. I had to use RTV once as a seal to get home. Until we really squeezed it down, the pump was not very effective. Botrh Jabsco & Sherwood sell gasket kits for most of their pumps; online, or @ WM
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:43 PM   #28
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I am tryin the paper tonight or tomorrow....

What is RTV?
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:55 PM   #29
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I am tryin the paper tonight or tomorrow....

What is RTV?
Silicone sealant
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:28 PM   #30
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Try putting the plate on without a gasket. It will leak a little, but you can the easily verify it was the gasket and replace it. If that doesn't solve the problem, try reassembling with the old impeller to rule out the new impeller.

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Old 05-29-2014, 08:09 PM   #31
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When you did the change, did you remove the pump completely? As in take off the engine mounting bracket.

I actually put mine (pump) on upside down. I was in the process of running it out a bucket so when exhaust started bubbling into the bucket, i realized what a dumb thing i had done.

That said, it fit perfectly upside down. but not so much in the water pumping department.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:23 PM   #32
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No, I only removed the cover.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:28 PM   #33
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It has to be that thicker gasket, surely. Everything else checks out, or is unchanged. But a thicker gasket would allow a significant leakage past the end of the impeller, and prevent priming quite easily. Oh, one other thing, something my mechanic mentioned, as the strainer/seacock in my boat was recently replaced, much like you did...did you burp the strainer..? I used to have a horizontal one under the floor, now it's a fancy upright one, but when drained, you have to loosen the top clamping knobs and let water flow in up to the top. Just a thought. Has to be that or that thick gasket, in my view. The engine/pump should otherwise have no problem self-priming, and if the old impeller was intact, blockage should not be it either.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:29 PM   #34
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I am considering adding a "T" to the supply hose to see if I can get it to prime that way...? what do you think that sounds like?
If you didn't have to prime it before you worked on it you shouldn't have to prime it after you worked on it. I've never heard of an engine raw water pump that had to be primed.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:57 PM   #35
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It's a horizontal strainer. I tried to "burp" it but wasn't getting much of a result.

I never had to prime it before when I put it in or out.
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Old 05-30-2014, 12:07 AM   #36
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It's a horizontal strainer. I tried to "burp" it but wasn't getting much of a result.
Ding, Ding, Ding! You can't get much water out of the strainer? Is it below the water line? If so, sounds like you may have found your problem.
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Old 05-30-2014, 01:30 AM   #37
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Ding, Ding, Ding! You can't get much water out of the strainer? Is it below the water line? If so, sounds like you may have found your problem.

It is below the water line and fills up almost completely.. there is a little bubble of air opposite of the supply tip that goes to the pump.

When I rebuilt the strainer/valve unit, i used all the same pieces and only changed the gate valve for the ball valve... it is a little "taller" then the gate valve, but not more then an inch or so...
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Old 05-30-2014, 06:05 AM   #38
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Manybox store ball valves are pure crap, does water rush , not simply pass thru it when the strainer is opened at the far end?
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Old 05-30-2014, 06:34 AM   #39
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You said in another thread that you had the key drive type impeller like mine . Have you taken the cover off and made sure that impeller and shaft are keyed together ? I can see how it could be easy to push the key out of slot if it wasn't lined up perfect when pushing impeller on shaft . Just a thought .
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Old 05-30-2014, 07:55 AM   #40
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What Fred said is right: take top off strainer, hold rag over open end and open the valve. There should be a storm of water gushing out.

You fitted a new impeller. Is it the correct one: is it tall enough? It should appear to be bulging out of the pump very slightly before you put the cover-plate back on. The bulge pushes against the plate and makes the seal.
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