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Old 03-18-2016, 10:21 PM   #21
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Raritan's "hold 'n' treat" system makes it possible to empty (note that I said "empty," not "dump") a tank legally inside the 3 mile limit wherever the discharge of treated waste is legal.
Which, to me, brings up the question of why is there any such thing as a "No Discharge Zone". The Clean Water Act from 1972 covered all this stuff. I put a Type I in my 30' power cat years ago because the alternative was pumping out. Then, a truck came to the marina and transported the waste to the local treatment plant that is well known for dumping RAW waste into the same body of water my boat is in. Go figure!

Why have cities been built on or very near water forever? Not for fresh water. Not for shipping. For getting rid of poop!

The dirty little secrets.... :-)
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:29 PM   #22
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Why are there no discharge zones? Ignorant politicians.
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:40 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by mixman;
...dumping RAW waste into the same body of water my boat is in. Go figure!Why have cities been built on or very near water forever? Not for fresh water. Not for shipping. For getting rid of poop!The dirty little secrets.... :-)
Staying at The Little Inn At The Bay in Newport CA once and there was a duck swimming in the pool. Guy got all huffy about it "messing" in the pool. When I said the duck was just getting even for us crapping in his pool forever, he got even huffier. Maybe he was one of Hopcars ignorant politicians.
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:56 PM   #24
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...why is there any such thing as a "No Discharge Zone". The Clean Water Act from 1972 covered all this stuff.

It was actually the 1978 version of the CWA that gave us marine sanitation laws, but I'm just nitpicking... To answer your question...

Because a) politicians need to be perceived as "doing something" so they pander to their base...and b) because Americans have a history of deciding that if there's a law on the books that isn't being enforced, the answer is a new law (that won't be enforced any better).

I've always considered it the ultimate irony that the very DAY RI's statewide NDZ law went into effect, a massive sewage treatment plant spill in Providence closed all the shellfish beds and beaches at that end of Narragansett Bay for at least two weeks.
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:13 PM   #25
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Your book, Peggy, has all manner of odors covered? Not just heads, right?

Maybe even mod after party odors?

I'll order one and challenge others to do the same if only because you are so generous with your help and knowledge, here.
It is well worth the very modest cost. You will not be sorry!
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:20 PM   #26
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Careful this thread doesn't decend into the abyss of ecological/political sewage treatment discussions.

But it can be fun.
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:22 PM   #27
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So if I was to add a Purasan to an existing system, I would need to buy a Purasan and a hold n treat control system. What else? Do I need to get a transfer pump to go from the holding tank to the Purasan? Do you need another thruhull for the Purasan output?
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:35 PM   #28
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So if I was to add a Purasan to an existing system, I would need to buy a Purasan and a hold n treat control system. What else? Do I need to get a transfer pump to go from the holding tank to the Purasan? Do you need another thruhull for the Purasan output?
Yes, you need a macerator pump to move the waste to the purasan


No you do not need another through hull if you already have one for your macerator.

Tank-macerator-purasan-overboard.
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:38 AM   #29
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Thanks Kevin!
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Old 03-19-2016, 07:39 AM   #30
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Which, to me, brings up the question of why is there any such thing as a "No Discharge Zone". The Clean Water Act from 1972 covered all this stuff. I put a Type I in my 30' power cat years ago because the alternative was pumping out. Then, a truck came to the marina and transported the waste to the local treatment plant that is well known for dumping RAW waste into the same body of water my boat is in. Go figure!

Why have cities been built on or very near water forever? Not for fresh water. Not for shipping. For getting rid of poop!

The dirty little secrets.... :-)
Think about all the bacteria that make it from shower water right out the thru hull from the shower drain. Yep .....and based on some boaters, reaching and cleaning certain parts of their body well before they reach the shower is doubtful.

Or, certain clothing washed in an onboard washer......

Or hands washed in a sink after changing diapers....

I could go on.....but seeing how rediculous this all is unless every boater is a germophobe....

Keeping bacteria out of the water should be everyone's best effort ....but will ultimately lt be less than perfect without major changes to even gray water laws.
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Old 03-19-2016, 09:03 AM   #31
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Think about all the bacteria that make it from shower water right out the thru hull from the shower drain. Yep .....and based on some boaters, reaching and cleaning certain parts of their body well before they reach the shower is doubtful.

Or, certain clothing washed in an onboard washer......

Or hands washed in a sink after changing diapers....

I could go on.....but seeing how rediculous this all is unless every boater is a germophobe....

Keeping bacteria out of the water should be everyone's best effort ....but will ultimately lt be less than perfect without major changes to even gray water laws.
New Boat Ad:

"Amenity" 34' Trawler

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- Planing hull - 18 knot cruise / 25 knots @ WOT
- With full gray water tank - 6 knot cruise / hull speed @ WOT

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Old 03-19-2016, 09:55 AM   #32
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Our Tolly’s two matching toilets: Raritan Crown Head – Model XCM / Series 0690 / 12 V / Centrifugal Discharge Series

4/15/13: From The Great HeadMistress – on a Trawler Forum post – In answer to my questions about toilet type listed above that is on our 1977 34’ tri cabin Tolly, “The Office”

Your toilet is the Raritan "Crown" Head that's been around for 40 years...Raritan still makes it...the CD version is the current version. Raritan Engineering | Crown Head II™ Electric Toilet
("sleek appearance" is achieved by a plastic shroud wrapped around the base.)

It's prob'ly the only toilet for a work boat--tug, fishing trawler, ferry -- 'cuz it's a real workhorse, but it's also a dinosaur that draws 36 amps (compared to 10-15 for more modern toilets) and uses 1-3 gallons of flush water with each flush AND makes enough noise to wake the dead, making it a bit problematic on recreational boats. If you can live with all that, it's a great toilet. If you can't, you might want to swap out the "lower unit" (everything south of the bowl) for a SeaEra "conversion." Raritan Sea Era Raritan Sea Era Conversion

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Soooo Far… In five years before the above… and… three years since… we’ve had no probs with either head functioning well. Noise bothers us not – cauz – we try to never need to flush at night. And if we should – for that reason! – then we would use the forward head with doors closed between there and rear master stateroom. Big enough House Batt Bank so the large amp draw is no issue.

Regarding the multi gallons per flush mentioned above. Years ago I put readily accessible ball valves in the flush water lines to each toilet. This enables to instantly lower the flow to a trickle or for full-on water flow or for water flow volume anywhere in between. Don’t know exactly – but my guess in only one to a max of four quarts for a #2. Pint or two for #1. I get these guesses by watching the bowls when flushing and by # of flushes before our 30 gal holding tank needs to be evacuated.

Important: If you follow my mode of water saving operation – never let the incoming water get completely shut off while using the flush mechanism. Pump impellers always need at least some water passing while they turn… or else the impeller life-span could become drastically reduced. Water-flow is a basic lubricant to impeller edges as they skim over pump walls.

Happy Tottie-Flush Daze – Art

PS: Peggies new and improved book is a gasssssss! Err, I mean it’s a truly “full-flushed” representation for what human-systems have surely yet to evolve beyond! I strongly recommend purchase, and, have already reviewed it cover to cover. The last section gives a plethora of contacts for all sorts of marine sanitation needs.

Thanks, Peggie!!
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:49 PM   #33
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Our Tolly’s two matching toilets: Raritan Crown Head – Model XCM / Series 0690 / 12 V / Centrifugal Discharge Series

Art, We're talking about two similar but different toilets. XCM is a Crown Head II model, not a Crown.

There have been only three versions of the Crown Head. The original, introduced in 1968, was named the "Standard," which every marine retailer mistakenly assumed was not the model name, but meant the same thing as normal or regular, and so only stocked rebuild kits for it, even long after it had been replaced by the "DD" ("Deep Draft") followed by the "CD" (Centrifugal Discharge) models. The CD, introduced in the late '80s, is still in production.

The Crown II was introduced sometime in the mid-'90s as a response to increased demand for toilets that use onboard pressurized fresh water (it's available in both fresh and raw water versions)...it's really a "first cousin" to the Crown...a good toilet, but not the robust "work horse" the Crown is.
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:58 PM   #34
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So if I was to add a Purasan to an existing system, I would need to buy a Purasan and a hold n treat control system. What else? Do I need to get a transfer pump to go from the holding tank to the Purasan? Do you need another thruhull for the Purasan output?
You'd need to add the "hold 'n' treat" controls only if you want to be able to use the PuraSan to empty the tank. In that case, you'd also need a transfer pump, but if you have a macerator pump to dump the tank, you already have one. The PuraSan can use the same thru-hull provided it's installed within the prescribed distance for it, which for most toilets would be no more than 6' from the toilet, no more than 6' from the thru-hull. Those distances can be a bit longer if your toilet is one of the luxury all-china "thrones" that have more powerful pumps capable of moving bowl contents further.
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Old 03-19-2016, 04:22 PM   #35
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Our Tolly’s two matching toilets: Raritan Crown Head – Model XCM / Series 0690 / 12 V / Centrifugal Discharge Series

Art, We're talking about two similar but different toilets. XCM is a Crown Head II model, not a Crown.

There have been only three versions of the Crown Head. The original, introduced in 1968, was named the "Standard," which every marine retailer mistakenly assumed was not the model name, but meant the same thing as normal or regular, and so only stocked rebuild kits for it, even long after it had been replaced by the "DD" ("Deep Draft") followed by the "CD" (Centrifugal Discharge) models. The CD, introduced in the late '80s, is still in production.

The Crown II was introduced sometime in the mid-'90s as a response to increased demand for toilets that use onboard pressurized fresh water (it's available in both fresh and raw water versions)...it's really a "first cousin" to the Crown...a good toilet, but not the robust "work horse" the Crown is.
Damn - Peggie. You really are great! I learn more bout "heads" every timed I hear/read items from you!

How do you keep all this important shat together in your head?? LOL

Anyway - Robust is a good word (comforting too, when discussing marine heads). Work Horse is name o' da game for nautical totties and the word Crown tain't nutten ta sneeze at!

We love our goo ol' lectric flushers. No muss no fuss... just a little noise once in a while.
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Old 03-19-2016, 06:18 PM   #36
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You'd need to add the "hold 'n' treat" controls only if you want to be able to use the PuraSan to empty the tank. In that case, you'd also need a transfer pump, but if you have a macerator pump to dump the tank, you already have one. The PuraSan can use the same thru-hull provided it's installed within the prescribed distance for it, which for most toilets would be no more than 6' from the toilet, no more than 6' from the thru-hull. Those distances can be a bit longer if your toilet is one of the luxury all-china "thrones" that have more powerful pumps capable of moving bowl contents further.
Thanks Peggy. Great info as usual.
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:24 AM   #37
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I'm partial to the PuraSan over the ElectroScan for several reasons: it works equally well in salt or fresh water....it costs less...and is easier to maintain. However, if you're always in salt water or go up a fresh water river so seldom that adding salt to each flush while in it wouldn't be a hardship, the ElectroScan can be a better choice because it doesn't need any added chemicals.

Peggie, can I double-check this with you?

Just talked to one of the prospective dealers/installers about a Purasan HNT system (using our existing holding tank), still at the "just getting ballpark numbers" stage, not yet committed to the project for this year. (Wallet issues.)

Anyway, he said in his opinion the ElectroScan is less complicated, and a less complicated installation...

Since we're usually on the Chesapeake, and our toilet is an electric pressurized freshwater flush system anyway...

I'd have thought I'd have to be adding stuff from time to time, no matter what. Chlorine tablets in one, salt in the other, the actual additive doesn't seem to me to make all that much difference in the amount of work I'd have to do occasionally?

Is one or the other system really less complicated, more robust, better, cheaper, etc. for our intended application?

IOW, do you still lean toward the Purasan? Presumably the EX, latest and greatest? I see you specifically mention easier to maintain, and I'm all over that idea! But does that refer to real no-kidding maintenance, or simply the part about keeping it stocked with whichever additive the system needs?

Or...?

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Old 03-22-2016, 09:55 AM   #38
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I'm not in Peggy's realm of knowledge but I'll help explain the components that make up the two different systems.

The electroscan consists of two or three pieces, depending on your installation

1. The treatment unit itself, which is approx 18" X 12" X 18"
2. The controller unit which is approx 6X6X3" and should bolt to a bulkhead.
3. A salt feed unit which in my case is approx 10" in diameter and 18" tall

It works by running a electrical current through saltwater to create a disinfectant chemical. The salt feed unit pumps a salt water mixture into the treatment unit as needed to produce the proper current flow.

The salt feed unit is a known problem area to Raritan. Hopefully they re-designed it, but as shipped from the factory (as of 1 year ago) it does not work reliably. I re-designed the unit and have been thrilled with the results after the factory could not make mine work properly.

The purasan EX unit consists of the following:

1. The treatment unit it itself, same exact size as the electroscan above
2. A controller unit, same approx size as the electroscan
3. A disenfectant holder (don't remember the exact size but small something like 6X6X6" bolts to a bulkhead
4. A air pump for the disenfectant unit

The purasan works just like the electroscan except that it injects a disenfectant solution into the treatment tank (instead of creating disenfectant from salt water) The way this injection process works is that it uses potable water to wet the disenfectant into a solution which is forced into the treatment tank under pressure. The pressure comes from a air pump that pressurizes the disenfectant holding vessel, forcing the disenfectant solution in the proper quantities into the treatment tank.

As to which one is better, that's a big ??? With the electroscan you need to buy salt. I go through a couple 40 pound bags of solar salt a season and spent 60 nights aboard last year. I can buy solar salt anywhere. Lowes sells it for $6.99 a bag. I also spent allot of hours re-engineering their salt feed system so it works reliably.

I do not have any operational time with the new purasan EX, but with the improvements they made over the old unit, it looks pretty Skookum.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:17 AM   #39
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With the electroscan you need to buy salt. I go through a couple 40 pound bags of solar salt a season and spent 60 nights aboard last year.
Kevin; good description and I don't want to take away from mixman's OP but to someone like me, still trying to figure this whole waste issue, 80 lbs. of salt in 60 nights sounds like a lot. How often do you ad and how many pump outs (not dumps O/B) in those 60 nights?

Man the old days were simple...compass, chart, sounder and a manual head, straight out the side.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:32 AM   #40
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Anyway, he said in his opinion the ElectroScan is less complicated, and a less complicated installation...

It might be in coastal waters that have a reliable sufficiently high saline content for the ES to work, but not in upper Chesapeake because it's brackish at best, close to fresh after heavy rains. So you'd either have to manually add salt to every flush or install a salt tank, which for your toilet would have to be one that loads with rock salt (Btw, solar salt works best).

Since we're usually on the Chesapeake, and our toilet is an electric pressurized freshwater flush system anyway...

IMO that makes the case for the PuraSan, which was designed for use in fresh water and toilets that use pressurized fresh water, but works equally well in salt water. No electrode pack that needs regular cleaning to remove sea water mineral buildup, just a chlorine cartridge that needs refilling when it runs out. Raritan had some problems with the original chlorine delivery equipment, but they've been solved by the EX version.

I'd have thought I'd have to be adding stuff from time to time, no matter what. Chlorine tablets in one, salt in the other, the actual additive doesn't seem to me to make all that much difference in the amount of work I'd have to do occasionally?

You don't ADD chlorine tablets (I've always thought it was a mistake to call them "tablets" because too many people think the cartridge dispenses "pills" with each flush)..flush water flows through the cartridge and washes enough off them to treat the flush. That cartridge hangs on a bulkhead in the head or in hanging locker behind it...the replacement "tablets" are small. Salt tanks are in the bilge and require hauling a 10 lb bag of rock aboard and climbing into the bilge reload the salt. You decide which is easier.

Is one or the other system really less complicated, more robust, better, cheaper, etc. for our intended application? IOW, do you still lean toward the Purasan?

In your waters, with your toilet, yes.
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