Bleach also starts a chemical reaction in a stainless tank and will result in pinholes in about 4-5 years, even in small amounts! Chlorine is a very strong chemical and should never be used in ss or aluminum tanks.
That's exactly why I use a carbon filter when filling my watertanks. I also use the carbon filter because Chlorine will kill my water makers membranes when it's in the rinse backflush mode. I had all Poly tanks on my last vessel. With the new vessel the water tank is FRP but I'm installing the water maker in the Gulfstar so it can't tolerate Chlorine. I know we are talking about holding tanks that's why I mentioned the negatives when it comes to using Chlorine in Aluminum. Steel tanks will suffer the same damage. It's a chemical that should be used very sparingly if at all in any boat's systems in my opinion.Isn't there chlorine in most water that we use to fill our aluminum tanks?
Isn't there chlorine in most water that we use to fill our aluminum tanks?
That's exactly why I use a carbon filter when filling my watertanks. I also use the carbon filter because Chlorine will kill my water makers membranes when it's in the rinse backflush mode. I had all Poly tanks on my last vessel. With the new vessel the water tank is FRP but I'm installing the water maker in the Gulfstar so it can't tolerate Chlorine. I know we are talking about holding tanks that's why I mentioned the negatives when it comes to using Chlorine in Aluminum. Steel tanks will suffer the same damage. It's a chemical that should be used very sparingly if at all in any boat's systems in my opinion.
Bill
That's exactly why I use a carbon filter when filling my watertanks. I also use the carbon filter because Chlorine will kill my water makers membranes when it's in the rinse backflush mode.
Bill
The second tip is to pour beer down into the holding tank preferably with it almost at empty and the yeast will eat away at the stubborn solids.
I know this tip is hard to do especially for a Kiwi like me who could be disowned by my countrymen for pouring good beer down the head.
Good luck
I do that as well Capt. Bill, that way I rarely need to change the flush filter for the water maker. I still use the carbon filter when filling the fresh water tanks, overkill perhaps...You need to install a carbon filter for the fresh flush line that feeds the water maker when you flush it.
Yes but it's just a very small concentration.Isn't there chlorine in most water that we use to fill our aluminum tanks?
A defect my Grand Banks had that is apparently common was that the copper dip tube into the holding tank which routes to either the pump out or macerator, normally was about 18" long and went nearly to tank bottom, in my case was corroded away to a 4" stub. About 3 gallons is all we could get out. Replaced all tank fittings with new PVC ones from a Seattle marine sanitation company after doing the sludge removal regimen and lots of flushing out. Now we have a nicely working 35 gal system.
A defect my Grand Banks had that is apparently common was that the copper dip tube into the holding tank which routes to either the pump out or macerator, normally was about 18" long and went nearly to tank bottom, in my case was corroded away to a 4" stub. About 3 gallons is all we could get out. Replaced all tank fittings with new PVC ones from a Seattle marine sanitation company after doing the sludge removal regimen and lots of flushing out. Now we have a nicely working 35 gal system.
I don't want to go too far off topic but on my just completed trip from Sidney to Whittier, AK my macerator stopped processing the holding tank contents. I assumed that the pump had malfunctioned so I went to a marina to pump it out. The pump out also did not do the job so I dug into the system and found that one of two vents was plugged. After unplugging it I tried it again with no results but tried the macerator while the pump out was connected. This resulted in the flow beginning. I carry lots of spares so I switched the pump out and checked all of the fittings. Still no flow without suction being applied to the waste pump out deck fixture. As I carry a wet vac I was able to evacuate the pump by applying suction to the deck fixture and activating the macerator.
I have a vacuuflush system with a sealand pump. The vacuum pump was turned off and the the seal at the heads was broken before we pumped out. The flow rate once I applied vacuum to the deck fixture was impressive, emptying the 60+ gallons in just a few minutes. I recently replaced all of the system's hoses and duck bills and had no problem for 6 months. His boat gets a lot of use(500+ hours/year) and i use digestive enzymes every 30 days.
Anyone have an idea what might cause this issue?
Thanks,
Larry
Sounds like your deck pumpout line has a leak preventing the macerator from creating enough suction to prime and pump assuming they share the same pickup fitting on the tank. If the O-ring on the deck fitting cap is OK then you might have a cracked hose or fitting between the deck fitting and pump. Applying suction at the deck fitting and pumping simultaneously is likely enough vacuum to overcome the leak.
The hose you couldn't get to would be the most likely culprit because it is common to either waste port.I guess I should have thought of that. I was chasing gremlins on the pump side while it may be on the only sani hose I could not reach to change it out. The one from the Y to the pump out tube. Time to get at that one I guess.
Thanks,
Larry