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Old 07-22-2015, 05:43 PM   #41
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We don't have dust (or rust) in the bilge of our glass boat, but we do have a hell of a lot of dog hair.....

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Old 07-22-2015, 07:54 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by ulysses View Post
The zinc plates bolted to the hull is often called a diver's plate or zinc. They can be replaced by a diver without lifting the boat on the hard. Welding is pretty typical.

As far as the bridge painting goes...We had to repaint the steel webbing of a bridge a few years ago after laying a 20" pipe under the bridge. All holes and attachment hardware were painted with some stuff that I do not even think is legal on boats. Ga. DOT supplied coating. Wish I had a few more gallons of it.

Was it dry-fall paint? We hate using the stuff. The solvents are so active that they dry before hitting the ground. It just leaves a very fine dust. You can't stay around it while unprotected. Our guys have to wear full protective suits and respirators to spray it.

Don on Moonstruck
Sabre 42 Hardtop Express & Blackfin 25 CC
When cruising life is simpler, but on a grander scale (author unknown)
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:02 PM   #43
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I own a steel boat and enjoy the endless possibility it has. I rather weld steel then mess with fiberglass. If you want to boat and not worry about ice, rocks, bad docks, or most collision go with a metal boat. You can abuse a steel boat and it will bring you back. Don't buy one if don't like to work on your boat or want the prettiest boat in the marina.
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:18 PM   #44
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Other than gunnels on poorly made boats with improper rubs rails...fiberglass boats aren't as fragile as people think...

I've pulled a few off the rocks that were back in the water as good as new in a couple days.

While I agree that steel boats are unbelievably tough...glass boats for the average boater are a much better solution.

And I believe the boating industry agrees...because of the direction it went and has stayed for many years.
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:44 PM   #45
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Moonstruck: Don't know what we used. We mixed and brushed since it was numerous small areas. Hard to stay around though and had about 30 pages of safety data. Went under the bridge a few weeks ago and you can still see it, no rust.
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Old 07-22-2015, 09:02 PM   #46
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Steel is also a better heat conductor than glass, so steel hulls need to be insulated or they will have significant condensation problems in colder water.

Construction methods and quality are also major considerations, but that is true with glass boats too. For a steel hull, the grade of steel used is significant. Mild steel will have a pretty short life if the coating system fails. You also need to be concerned with topsides weight. A steel house is heavy where you don't want weight. Many boats deal with this by using an aluminum house, but that introduces new corrosion problems if the paint fails at the steel-aluminum junction.

I own a steel boat so will chime in a little here after first stipulating a couple of points: First, Like Sargent Shultz, I know nothing, and my strong preference for steel hulls is about emotion, not sound reasoning. I grew up in my parents small business that owned 25-30 small boats in fresh water. Ninety percent of the boats were metal but ninety percent of the maintenance was on the 10 percent of boats that were glass. Long time ago and different from what we do now but I am stuck with the bias. Also my comments here are only based on three years of my own experience with this boat in salt but she has lived her whole life there.

In regard to the quote above, my experience may agree with the second point but is in direct opposition to the first. My boat is Dutch built steel and the coatings are old technology and 31 years old on the inside with no insulation below the waterline. Except where the coating have been injured by careless physical activity in the engine bilge, the coatings that I can see are flawless and show no corrosion. We sounded the hull on survey and 100 pings found absolutely no variation from builder spec at 30 years. Outside and above the waterline we chase some coating failures and I suspect recoating to be an every 12-15 year affair.

In regards to insulation/condensation: I am as baffled by this as others here may be but I had never been around a dry boat until Klee Wyck. My geography is cold water for 12 months a year (low 50s) and very damp air for 9 months a year. This boat is spectacularly dry and I am clueless as to why but it does not support the comment above. Have never dehumidified this boat and other than the pilothouse windows when we are cooking in Winter, no condensation anywhere.

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