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Old 04-05-2011, 11:25 PM   #41
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RE: Prepare to tow or be towed.

Not meaning to hijack the post, but my no. 3 son has fallen in love with Canada, after a*season working in Banf, he would love to get invovled on the water as this is his first love.He was going to enter the navy after graduation but wanted to see a bit of the world first. Most of his working experience to date has been in & around boats down here in Oz. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Andy
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:32 PM   #42
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RE: Prepare to tow or be towed.

Gee, Andy.* Why didn't you just start a new thread?* Your post has no relevance here.

*
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:43 PM   #43
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RE: Prepare to tow or be towed.

yeah sorry you are right, appologies all
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Old 04-06-2011, 09:41 PM   #44
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RE: Prepare to tow or be towed.

Willy,

I have a 10' RIB on Weaver Davits, but I just bought a 14' C-Dory that I want to tow sometimes.* Your information isn't confusing, just the opposite.* I have been told not to tow, that I shouldn't tie up bow and stern parallel to the swim step, don't tow without a bridle and on and on.* It sounds like you're doing all of the above from time to time.* Even your trick for slowing the towed boat in a following sea sounds workable.* You're description makes me think it's all doable and that I should just start in and learn what works.

Lyle
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Old 04-07-2011, 09:21 AM   #45
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RE: Prepare to tow or be towed.

Willy, I sort of get what you are describing. However being a wide body, no side decks and the being so high off the water makes side tying difficult.* I am more concerned about the run about crashing/banging into the pretty varnished teak swim deck that I work so hard on and would like to tow it length wise.
*
I envision the tow package to be sort of like the front end of a trailer with a winch to keep the run about from hitting teak swim step.* So with a winch the run about could be towed with the bow up tight or could be let out.*** The run about could be keep center behind the Eagle with two side lines tied to the two stern/side of the run about and to the side cleats of the Eagle.** So I am going to start just with the receiver on the Eagle, basically copy the front end of the trailer, and use line to keep centered.*
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Old 04-07-2011, 01:01 PM   #46
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RE: Prepare to tow or be towed.

Quote:
Willy wrote:
Markpierce, video ? now trying ta do that will probably get me sinking line around the prop.
*You're right, Willy.* Hadn't thought of that likelihood.

*
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Old 04-08-2011, 12:33 AM   #47
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Prepare to tow or be towed.

Here is a tow system I have used for towing my 14 ft. jon boat with a 25HP outboard on the Mississippi. *I typically tow at 12 to 15 kts. *On the Mississippi, we have locks on average every 30 miles or so. *I typically tow with the boat about 60 ft. back, but when locking thru I need to have control of the towed boat to keep it from drifting into other boats. *the currents in a filling lock can and will push the towed boat all over the place. *Pulling up the a fuel dock, *marina or beaching on a sand bar, is the same. *This rig keeps the boat under control, there are no lines in the water to run over if I need to back up. *I can go from long to short or back in a couple minutes. *Once the lines are made up, rigging only takes about 5 minutes.

Some general thoughts, I use 3/8" solid braid polypropylene. *It is very cheap at about $5 per 100 ft. length at the local lumber and home store. *It is soft on the hands, The Admiral likes that. *It floats, but that's not enough to keep it out of the prop if I'm towing long and *I back up. *If I stop for a few minutes, with the towed boat drifting, I don't start up again without knowing for sure where the lines are. * Ski tow rope floats are not a good idea because they kick up a lot of spray, if they drag in the water

*When pulling in the tow to hook up short, the loops in the short bridle come right back to you when you pull in the long lines. *If you accidentally drop the short loop you can pull it back in with the long line.

*The lengths of the lines are important. *In the close up bridle, there needs to be about 3" to 4" slack in the lines going to the bow eye. *The lines running to the aft cleats of the towed boat should have about 10" slack. *This allows the loop to be easily looped over the big boat's cleats, as well as allow the towed boat to move a little to bounce in the waves or wakes. * The lengths of the long lines need to be matched, a difference of a few inches makes a big difference in where the towed boat centers up behind. *The towed boat tows much easier if it is positioned on the downward side of the wake wave, as compared to the uphill side of the wave. *Be careful that the up close loops don't drag in the water and kick up spray that lands in the towed boat. *It can add up to a lot of water in the boat after a few hours tow. * This set up makes the towed boat behave well in waves and boat wakes. *there is no tendency to bow steer. *Using two lines to tow seems much safer to me. *I can always picture realizing I hadn't looked back at the tow for ten minutes, looking back and seeing only the line and no boat, and wondering where did I loose it. *And pulling on three points instead of just one, the bow eye, is a lot easier on equipment. *Bow eyes can break.

And best part of all, its cheap. *$10 for line, $10 for two bow eye snaps, *$25 for the trailer roller, and $0.50 for a foot of plastic water line. *Whole thing for under $50. *More money for beer.






-- Edited by Capn Craig on Friday 8th of April 2011 01:27:25 AM



-- Edited by Capn Craig on Friday 8th of April 2011 01:29:11 AM



-- Edited by Capn Craig on Sunday 10th of April 2011 08:37:09 PM


-- Edited by Capn Craig on Sunday 10th of April 2011 08:39:47 PM
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:14 AM   #48
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RE: Prepare to tow or be towed.

Links don't work for me.
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:21 AM   #49
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RE: Prepare to tow or be towed.

The links to not open as a pass work is required.

Document.pdf (82 KB)[Open as Web Page]

Document.pdf (37 KB)[Open as Web Page]*

Craig, it sound like your idea is some what similar as mine, but I want to used a solid tow*bar which could*maybe very in length as to what is the best distance to tow at.* The best might be to just*use bumpers/fenders to protect the swim step and dink.* Most of the towing packages I have seen are solid, but they are on commercial trawlers, which I tend to follow.**

I seen a package years ago for pleasure boats.* I think they were made by*Sea Wise*company that makes Davits that tilt*up and the motor mount pivots so the engine is vertical and supported?* Tex email me last night and said he would post the picture of the tow package on a Krogan in his marina.*

*
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:03 PM   #50
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RE: Prepare to tow or be towed.

Here's the set-up that Phil/Fill was talking about on a very special 36 Krogen Manatee on Gulf Coast Florida. *He travels to spend summers in the Great Lakes, and then returns for winters in Florida. *Last time I heard, the boat had 22 (yes that is twenty two) loops on it.

**The dingy is a big, heavy thing with a 90 HP outboard. *It is equipped with bull-bars on the front of the dingy, and a custom tow hitch to attach it to the stern. *When not in use, he uses that massive boom to hoist it up on the custom cradle on the back of the boat deck. *If the main goes out in the Manatee, the dingy can push the whole works at a reported 4 knots. *I think he can also back-up with the unit attached.

**First picture is the dingy sitting on the custom cradle with bull bars and hitch bracket visible. *Second is the stern with hitch. *Third is underway with dingy hitched to stern.
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:02 PM   #51
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Prepare to tow or be towed.

Quote:
Phil Fill wrote:
The links to not open as a pass work is required.*

Craig, it sound like your idea is some what similar as mine, but I want to used a solid tow*bar which could*maybe very in length as to what is the best distance to tow at.* The best might be to just*use bumpers/fenders to protect the swim step and dink.* Most of the towing packages I have seen are solid, but they are on commercial trawlers, which I tend to follow.**

I seen a package years ago for pleasure boats.* I think they were made by*Sea Wise*company that makes Davits that tilt*up and the motor mount pivots so the engine is vertical and supported?* Tex email me last night and said he would post the picture of the tow package on a Krogan in his marina.*

*
Quote:
I FINALLY FIGURED OUT HOW TO ATTACH THE SKETCHES. *THANK YOU, ADMIRAL
Quote:
I show a trailer roller in my sketch. * But in reality it could be a high dollar fender that I see in the West Marine Catalog. *that *hooks over the edge of the swim step *It looks like it would work well but I'm too cheap to *pony the $100+ that they want. *It really comes down to how high the swim step is. * I have 3" dock edging pop riveted to the gunnels of my flat bottom all around. *It is really nice, as I don't worry a bit about the boat rubbing up against the mother ship. *I also have the same dock edging attached to the edges of the swim step. *I built the swim step a few years back. *it is surfaced with 3/4" Starboard with a welded aluminum sub structure. * It was/is the best improvement I made to the last boat. *I am thinking very seriously about stretching it 10~11 feet wide to fit the new to me Californian. *It is way nicer than the thing that came from the factory.
*

*


-- Edited by Capn Craig on Sunday 10th of April 2011 09:04:03 PM
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:14 PM   #52
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RE: Prepare to tow or be towed.

Quote:
healhustler wrote:
Here's the set-up that Phil/Fill was talking about on a very special 36 Krogen Manatee on Gulf Coast Florida. *He travels to spend summers in the Great Lakes, and then returns for winters in Florida. *Last time I heard, the boat had 22 (yes that is twenty two) loops on it.

**The dingy is a big, heavy thing with a 90 HP outboard. *It is equipped with bull-bars on the front of the dingy, and a custom tow hitch to attach it to the stern. *When not in use, he uses that massive boom to hoist it up on the custom cradle on the back of the boat deck. *If the main goes out in the Manatee, the dingy can push the whole works at a reported 4 knots. *I think he can also back-up with the unit attached.

**First picture is the dingy sitting on the custom cradle with bull bars and hitch bracket visible. *Second is the stern with hitch. *Third is underway with dingy hitched to stern.

My fear would be do the bars kick up spray when the dinghy is at or approaching planning speed. * Nothing cheap, small or simple here.
*

*
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:14 AM   #53
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RE: Prepare to tow or be towed.

Tex thanks for posting the picture.* That picture started me think about being able to push the Eagle as I plan on towing a 20 ft boat with a good size hp engine to be another get home.* Towns and dock in BC Canada and Alaska are few and far between.*************
*
Craig, that is short of what I am thinking of, but the teak deck also need to be protected that is why I keep think of installing a trailer hitch received under the swim platform for the rollers and a winch that can be take off and on.**The two stern tie line should take the pressure off the bow eye.* At the same time I want to move the teak deck out about 3 to 6 inches to make it wider since the stern is slanted backwards, so there is no need for the deck to be up close to the stern.*Aso the idea of the*short and long lines for towing
*
*
*
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Old 04-11-2011, 08:32 PM   #54
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RE: Prepare to tow or be towed.

Quote:
Old Stone wrote:
"Bucky" - Maybe it's just me, but what the heck is the size of that outboard on your dingy? Looks pretty big!

Oops, just saw that it is 90 hp. Wow, would think that cold tear the transom right off the dingy, but obviously not.



Nope....that's not mine....it's Mana-Tee over on the Gulf Coast. If you look close, you can see lots of other heavy mods on his boat, including rails, mast, rigging, even the pilothouse doors. Fortunately, the Manatee has a low center of gravity, and quite a bit of reserve stability, which is pretty forgiving of heavy mods, despite its bloated form.
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