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Old 05-31-2012, 08:03 AM   #21
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Daddyo, how did the ipe compare to teak on cost? I did some research on it and it looks to be a very good choice.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:14 AM   #22
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Good job i cheated bought one of a wrecked super Yacht cut it down to size.but used some additional pieces to incorprate a rub/crash Rail.
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:20 AM   #23
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I've thought of building custom swimsteps as a side gig after retirement. I have a CNC router and am always looking at ways that it'll support me 'post workaday world'

Starboard would be an easy material to work with. A full sheet (54" x 96") is around $450 for 1" thickness. The beauty is the abilty to cut, shape and design it any way you wanted without regard to grain and direction.

Fun stuff to work with. If anyone can think of things they'd like to see cut in CNC, shoot me an email. I'm always looking for fun projects and ideas. I have less time than imagination, but do have a CNC router and a CNC laser in my garage shop.
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:26 AM   #24
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I have a local Mega yacht/sport fishing boat builder about 2 blocks from my house and they use starboard for loads of stuff, Cabinets on the fishing deck, Instraments mounting, Cabin doors for the head, I had a hard frame top with Sunbrella on it, changed it to 3/4 inch starboard added a drip rail and shaped the front rounded it was fantastic, and you could stand on it, i was able to mount all my electronics on it with out worry of leaks or hard to service . Great idea
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:42 AM   #25
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It's amazing stuff to work with too. Works easily, the machine runs through it single-pass at 2-3 inches per second and while more expensive than ply, will last forever.

It definitely has some applications that it exceeds wood, but lacks in others though. Another drawback is the ability to bond the stuff. NOTHING will stick to it.

I love working with the stuff, but come out covered in snow every evening when I run it on the machine.
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Old 06-01-2012, 11:01 PM   #26
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Daddyo, how did the ipe compare to teak on cost? I did some research on it and it looks to be a very good choice.
It was about a third of the price and exponentially stronger. Couldn't even make the transom bend with the 1 1/4" laying horizontal so I had to turn it on edge showing the 1".
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Old 06-02-2012, 07:46 AM   #27
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Did you finish this project Daddyo? Let's see some pics!
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:12 PM   #28
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Really good looking result. Traction and feel must be great. Sure would appreciate you building me one for my Manatee. How many bucks for materials? Hours?
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:22 AM   #29
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If you used IPE it will last past generations. In my home town there is an old peer made of IPE in 1908. It is still used by a Gas Station and all kinds of boats tie in itÖ..
I really wish that I live as long as the first signal of rotten wood appears in your swimm platform. That will give me another 30 to 35 years to enjoy life, starting now.

Enjoy
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:25 AM   #30
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Howdy - Not meaning to Hi-Jack this swim platform thread... but rather to continue on the theme for best materials regarding weight bearing, stand-upon boat areas, I post the following.

Marin’s post with listed build-out weights and measures for nearly any item is spot on i.e. - - > “...answer to your question is easy: How much do you value 1) strength, 2) longevity, 3) ease of fabrication/installation, 4) aesthetics, 5) cost, 6)safety, and 7) resale value? Assign a value of 1 to 5 to each item, 5 being the most valuable, and whichever attributes are closest to 5 will tell you how to build your...” – [whatever]

BTW – Many posts on this thread have shown/described great build-outs on your swim-steps and some good input on various materials and build methods were well discussed... Thanks!

Soooo this is my situation:

I recently acquired a lightly used, considerably good condition (needs thorough cleaning and engine reactivation after misting years ago; upholstery and gel coat are fine) 700 hour total use, 20’ 1990 Malibu Skier with 350 cid, 270 hp... on a good trailer. My only real problem is some areas of floor rot in the carpeted plywood; i.e. center of boat on both sides of engine hatch where skiers stood upon exiting water. 11 year grandson and I have removed all furniture etc to carpeted floor and we together will restore this Skier with some help in cleaning from his 9 year sister. Stringers are in great condition. I can either leave existing plywood in place (areas other than on sides of engine are still in sound condition) and simply cover it all with added 1/2” marine ply (or other material) and lay carpet or I can tear out entire floor and replace with 5/8” or 3/4”. Still making my decision for technique on floor repair in this instance on a 1990 Skier/party-boat in regard to the build-out weights and measures mentioned above.

The question I bring to you all with this post:

In this case of overlaying or completely replacing a carpeted ski-boat floor, instead of marine plywood, what suggestion for floor material might you provide? I was extremely interested to read the input on aluminum and will call my metal shop to get a fabrication bid on an aluminum overlay and aluminum for complete floor replacement. I’ve never used Star Board. This will be an interesting project with grandson... the boat just might become his in 5 or 6 years! Ya just never know...

Suggestions always appreciated – Thanks Art
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:07 PM   #31
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I would use AC exterior plywood with a layer of 4 or 6 ounce fg cloth set in epoxy resin. It will probably outlast the rest of the boat. Aluminum will be be cost prohibitive on project like this (compared to the value of the boat). In my opinion the aluminum overlay wouldn't be a very good fix.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:45 PM   #32
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I would use AC exterior plywood with a layer of 4 or 6 ounce fg cloth set in epoxy resin. It will probably outlast the rest of the boat. Aluminum will be be cost prohibitive on project like this (compared to the value of the boat). In my opinion the aluminum overlay wouldn't be a very good fix.
TY SoF - That's one way for sure!
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