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Old 09-27-2016, 11:54 AM   #41
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This has been a really interesting thread.

As a guy that is currently in the market for a new small outboard I have read, and re-read the posts here.

The big take away I have, as admittedly a non "expert" on the subject is the very high percentage of people that have had carburetor issues. Even the people that like carburated engines seem to indicate that they have gotten proficient at removing, rebuilding , or otherwise screwing around with their carburetors.

That just does not sound like much fun to me. Honestly screwing with a carburator, especially if it was a hours long job, just to get a skiff running is unacceptable.

I have an Evenrude 60 hp EFI engine on my pontoon boat. What a great engine. I've had that pontoon boat for over a decade. It sits in the water from April to October, and gets ran several times a week. It sits on the hard for the rest of the year.

I have done NOTHING to that engine except change the fluids and filters. Nothing! It starts and runs perfect every time. In the spring after sitting for several months it starts right away. I don't put special stuff in the gas. I don't do anything to it.

Thats the kind of reliability I am after in replacing the engine on my Whaler. Thats why I have decided to go with a EFI engine.
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Old 09-27-2016, 02:24 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koliver View Post
Art

I don't have the same fear of salt water.
I have had OBs in a salt environment since my first, bought in 1978. I have owned a fresh water flush attachment, which I used for a while on a used Johnson 15. thae OB dies a natural death, despite being flushed regularly. The circumstances of my moorage changed, I got lazy, I misplaced the flushing attachment and forgot about it.
Now, many years have passed, with 4 OB engines hanging off of my transom the past 35 years or so, never getting a fresh water flush. I have had no issues related to whether in salt or fresh water. My only issues were with carburated engines and ethanol in the gas. Now, with EFI, I have no issues at all.
That almost sounds to be an issue... in and of its own volition!
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Old 09-27-2016, 04:21 PM   #43
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Use this stuff...Regardless. It's pretty amazing.
My 20 year old Honda 2 hp thanks me every day...

Mechanic In a Bottle | B3C Fuel Solutions
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Old 09-28-2016, 08:34 AM   #44
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Haven't ever had much luck with the various gasoline treatment products versus ethanol. Including the several recommended by various sources over the years. None have seemed to actually stop separation, and that whole "absorbs water" thing always seems to go south in the carburetor.

I suspect I'm complicit, in that we don't run the outboard often enough to cycle gas frequently. Therefore I've gotten into the habit of dumping all our outboard gas into a car after about 2 weeks or so of non-use in the dinghy.

Mounting a fuel-water separator on the dinghy would be an easy-enough project, and Racor makes a likely snap-on candidate for that kind of application, but I haven't gotten a round tuit.


As a kind of test, I didn't try to run the injectors dry on our 15-hp Suzuki EFI when we flushed it and prepared for storage over last Winter, and the motor started on the first pull when we launched it last Spring. That was impressive.


Would have been more impressive if I hadn't let the starting battery discharge itself too low over winter... 'cause then I wouldn't have to "pull" the starter at all!

-Chris
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Old 09-28-2016, 08:59 AM   #45
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I don't think it is a good idea to try to run an EFI outboard dry prior to storage. It really does not drain like running a carb dry, engine will stall when fuel pressure goes low, but system is still mostly full of gas.

EFI is sealed from outside air so gas tends to not degrade from evaporation or oxidation.

My family had an EFI Yamaha 4s 150hp that would sit for six months at a time. When set up for storage, just flushed it on the hose and turned it off. No attempt to drain or run out of gas. We did this for like six years and engine always started right up when taken out of storage. Never a fuel issue. Truly impressive compared to carbs.
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:07 AM   #46
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FWIW - Mechanic in a bottle = 97% naptha and trace surfactants and masking agents.
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:16 AM   #47
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"My family had an EFI Yamaha 4s 150hp that would sit for six months at a time. When set up for storage, just flushed it on the hose and turned it off. No attempt to drain or run out of gas. We did this for like six years and engine always started right up when taken out of storage. Never a fuel issue. Truly impressive compared to carbs."


I agree 100% Ski - we have had a few of these and they always stored and started really easily. We do drain the VST tank as part of the normal winterizing process but when we did not it would always start immediately.


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Old 09-28-2016, 09:30 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
I don't think it is a good idea to try to run an EFI outboard dry prior to storage. It really does not drain like running a carb dry, engine will stall when fuel pressure goes low, but system is still mostly full of gas.

Yeah, had read that, and that's kinda what I was trying to confirm. The manual is sorta silent on that. Says to add a stabilizer to the fuel, flush the raw water passages, and then stop the engine. Nothing more about the fuel system and storage.

So I "gathered" running it dry at least wasn't necessary, but knew nothing about whether verboten or not.

Our first year winter storage prep was by the local dealer, more as a matter of convenience for that particular year since we had some other life stuff going on. So last year was my first rodeo on this one...

And then I read about not bothering to run dry, tried it... seems to have worked like a champ.

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Old 09-28-2016, 09:54 AM   #49
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I have found following the handbook and workbook to be very easy and effective for most any outboard. Most of these are available online for free or very inexpensive - Yamaha is quite easy to access online.
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Old 09-28-2016, 10:40 AM   #50
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Regarding o/b's with small fuel tanks:


I've had no EFI outboards; not yet anyway. From all reports they sound good for starting easily. Also have heard horror stories from those who did run into problem with EFI apparatus and tried to self-remedy (fix) the situation... take-it to a shop was end result, and rather expensive.


I've found using Berryman B-12 Chemtool on a regular basis added to gasoline keeps carburetor as well as other fuel line items internally free of build ups. I've yet needed to rebuild or replace an o/b carburetor - that's from 1960's to now.


Regarding inboards with larger fuel tanks:


Gasoline water build-up and Ethanol/Dinosaur fuel separations as well as critters growing in gas/diesel tanks that hold fuel for longer (six months to couple years) durations...


I've found that Soltron does the trick for keeping gasoline in good condition. Gas tests in clear bottle poured from my engines' canister filters always tell the story. As well as my engines' easy, quick start and smooth running at all rpm levels.


From what I understand Soltron works just as good in diesel fuel too.


https://www.navstore.com/soltron-en.html


BTW - I get Soltron from local NAPA auto store. Minimal amount of Soltron needed to be added makes it an easy application and considerably affordable fuel-safety measure for whenever adding fuel to tank.


As an aside - I don't bother to add Soltron to our 6 gal o/b tanks because their contents are gone through so quickly. And, If I were to take extended cruise on our Tolly where we were depleting, then refilling the tanks on a regular basis I would use 1/2 recommended amount of Soltron. When our 100 gal tanks are down to 1/4 level (25 gals each) I add can of Berryman B-12 Chemtool for internal fuel line cleaning. Then, when the tanks get to 1/8 level (12.5 gals) I add gasoline in what ever amount desired... full-up or otherwise! And yes - I have fuel level measuring device that gives me "exact" content level in each tank.
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