New windlass suggestions

[kthoennes]

I'll bet that has a lot to do with it, and operator issues. My little problem I mentioned before with the bent tension finger pivot pin for example - I don't understand how that even happens, unless somebody stepped on it full weight when it was extended outside the housing, or whacked it with a hammer, or sucked the anchor itself past the roller and maybe jammed the swivel into the gypsy. Just a jammed chain wouldn't have done that.

 

[ranger58sb]

Really? While I have never owned one, I have heard nothing but great things about them on various forums and directly from owners. Including before, during and after the sale service. I'm sure there is a reason why an "equivalent" Ideal goes for much more money, but still...
Perhaps it is like what I call the Vacuflush, or Sea Ray phenomenon
, you hear complaints because there are a lot of them out there.

Yeah, it's actually kind of surprising -- to me, anyway. So much so that I was equally surprised to see recommendations here.

OTOH, I usually don't have insight into actual usage (perhaps owners don't secure their rode, relying only on the windlass?), actual ode construction (versus Good recommendations), service and maintenance regimes, etc.

Just seems that when one of the owners reports having windlass issues, about 90% of the time (seat of the pants estimate) it was a Good product.

-Chris

 

[Billylll]

Which owners group is having a problem with the GOOD series of windlass? I have nothing but good experiences with the products. Everyone who has ever purchased one has thanked me for the recommendation.
Quite frankly I was surprised to read this about GOOD.
I'm not saying they are the best they offer a good value for the cost and they were one of the most reliable windlass units I have ever used. My last unit was purchased in late 2005 the new owner even commented on how well it worked.
I'd like to see the actual complaints perhaps they are operator errors?
Bill

 

[Billylll]

Before you spend a thousand dollars or more on a replacement windlass, I suggest making sure you don't just have a wiring problem or a defective circuit breaker.

"Throwing parts" at a problem is not the most efficient or cost effective means of solving the problem.

If it's not an electrical problem, having the windlass rebuilt (if possible) is a good choice because you won't have to rewire or move any holes.

Ron, I was thinking the same about a wiring or breaker issue. I'd fully investigate the entire return trip of the DC wiring and make sure the wire is properly and check the breaker it may have seen better days.
As a side mote I have seen many boats original windlass wiring undersized. This is one area where trying to stay close to the "hairy edge" is not a good idea.
Bill

 

[slowandsteady]

I just wired up the Lewmar 1000 that the PO mounted on the boat before he sold it to me. Works great for my needs. A friend of mine had an Ideal on his 1980 42' Uniflite. They are located about 5 minutes from my house. They gave him excellent service and still service every windlass they ever made. No, not excellent service, AWESOME service! When they asked him when he needed the motor rebuilt, he said ASAP, they said, "Go get a a cup of coffee and it will be ready when you get back" Can't beat that!
He essentially has a brand new windlass now.

 

[High Wire]

My original windless continues to throw a breaker as well as stopping and difficult to make work. Just not dependable. Nearly hit shore trying to leave cove yesterday. Had it! Going to replace windless, rusty chain and anchor. Any suggestions for the new windless. I have a 1984 35' CHB and want to replace the all chain but want dependable windless and remote. Looking for suggestions and insight. Thanks. Presently have a horizontal and plan to stay with horizontal.

Sounds more electrical than mechanical. Some troubleshooting is in order first.

 

[ranger58sb]

Which owners group is having a problem with the GOOD series of windlass? I have nothing but good experiences with the products. Everyone who has ever purchased one has thanked me for the recommendation.
Quite frankly I was surprised to read this about GOOD.
I'm not saying they are the best they offer a good value for the cost and they were one of the most reliable windlass units I have ever used. My last unit was purchased in late 2005 the new owner even commented on how well it worked.
I'd like to see the actual complaints perhaps they are operator errors?
Bill

Silverton, but I don't see much that indicates it has anything to do with the brand of boat the windlass is installed on.

And I mentioned, this is just my general impression from 9 years of reading there. Anecdotal at best, and yes, could be operator error (especially in the maintenance arena, maybe), at least sometimes. I think the boats themselves are general older, '80s maybe, but I dunno if that means these would have bee factory-installed options, dealer-installed options, or completely aftermarket.... although I think Silverton (Luhrs, Mainship, Hunter, etc.) might have begun installing Lewmar or some such sometime in the '90s.

You are welcome to join and read all the windlass threads

-Chris

 

[kulas44]

I scoop up all of the Ideal windlasses I find. I have 4, 12 volt vertical units in my shop now and 1 120volt 3/4 hp fwd/rev unit. And, a large 2 hp 120v unit. Some have gypsys, some just drums. The big unit has both. I really like Ideal windlasses but I also have a Lewmar 2200 (???) that I have been kicking around for several years. I would shop around on ebay and CraigsList befor buying a new Ideal, then just rebuild it. I dont care much for the cheap stuff when it comes to anchoring equipment, or fancy for that matter. Generally, on a trawler type boat over 40 feet, a decent new windlass will be around $3000 from any of the better companies.

 

[kulas44]

I was wrong, it is a Maxwell windlass that has been moved to every corner of the shop. I was also wrong on new pricing. A new Ideal V5C in 120 volt reversing is $8800. The smaller 12v units are around $4000. I didnt pay anywhere near those prices, IIRC on the v5c, the shipping was about as much as I paid for the windlass on ebay. After looking on ebay just now, even rusty old Ideal Windlasses are asking big money.

 

[ranger58sb]

Woof!

Our Vetus-Maxwell RC 10-10 was $1800 in 2007.

Plus extras for remote foot switches, rode counter, etc., and I had them make up the new rode, too.

-Chris

 

[psneeld]

How did the windlass contribute to the navigation issue?

FWIW, we've been pleased with our Maxwell RC-10-10. Helm and pulpit controls. Rode counter. All chain, all rope, or rope chain works on the same gypsy. They recommend 8-plait rope, so that's what we use after the chain portion; seems to drop, retrieve, and fall into the rope locker nicely. They make a version with an additional capstan, too, and I would have preferred that... but don't have enough clearance for that under the hatch where our windlass lives.

Presumably the horizontal version would be equally good.

Speaking of good... In our owners club forum, usually the single brand of windlass that causes the most grief is Good. Broken parts, failure to feed, failure to retrieve, failure to fall, whatever... I don't have any direct experience with 'em, and I can't tell whether there are maybe contributory operator issues or not, but I've read lots of complaints about 'em.

-Chris

When I worked for a marine electronics firm....about half of the customers we had echoed this...the other half said they were the greatest windlass they ever had.

I know the support is supposed to be very good...and the smaller models seem perfect for the fishing crowd....

I had a lot of experience with Maxwells and Lewmars when I worked at a Sea Ray dealership and the rope/chain gypsies were just so finicky I promised myself to go all chain on my next boat....yet I do see some of the plusses of a combo rode...yet an all chain rode with multiple length snubbers and other shock absorbing means seems still the most simplistic for shallow water anchoring cruisers.

If I regularly anchored in anything over 50 feet...I'd certainly be rethinking my position.

 

[ranger58sb]

I had a lot of experience with Maxwells and Lewmars when I worked at a Sea Ray dealership and the rope/chain gypsies were just so finicky I promised myself to go all chain on my next boat....yet I do see some of the plusses of a combo rode...yet an all chain rode with multiple length snubbers and other shock absorbing means seems still the most simplistic for shallow water anchoring cruisers.

The all-chain rode worked well for us on the just-previous boat, but the mud here is such a pain to clean out of the links.... so our switch to combo was sort of a self-defense mechanism. Now it only takes me 20 minutes or so to bring the thing back aboard. Other wise, I'd probably go back to all chain.

We also had all-chain on the previous-previous boat for a while... but in addition to Chesapeake mud, I was the windlass... we had no washdown... and bringing up all that black mud by hand was even messier.

Anyway, the RC 10-10 chainwheel seems to work very well with our rode -- 5/16" chain and 5/8" 8-plait rope in our case. It wouldn't surprise me if some of the complaints about various windlasses, no matter what brand or model, are about the gypsy/capstan/whatever and how (if) it works (or not) with rope. Possibly complicated by the user, perhaps mismatching rope style (3-strand, double braid, 8-plait) with whatever the windlass manufacturer recommends for their various models.

-Chris

 

[psneeld]

The all-chain rode worked well for us on the just-previous boat, but the mud here is such a pain to clean out of the links.... so our switch to combo was sort of a self-defense mechanism. Now it only takes me 20 minutes or so to bring the thing back aboard. Other wise, I'd probably go back to all chain.

We also had all-chain on the previous-previous boat for a while... but in addition to Chesapeake mud, I was the windlass... we had no washdown... and bringing up all that black mud by hand was even messier.

Anyway, the RC 10-10 chainwheel seems to work very well with our rode -- 5/16" chain and 5/8" 8-plait rope in our case. It wouldn't surprise me if some of the complaints about various windlasses, no matter what brand or model, are about the gypsy/capstan/whatever and how (if) it works (or not) with rope. Possibly complicated by the user, perhaps mismatching rope style (3-strand, double braid, 8-plait) with whatever the windlass manufacturer recommends for their various models.

-Chris

Yep ...it was almost always the line that was the issue...nice winches...but line issues.

I find with towing...often when a line is strtched...it takes on a slightly different shape.

Can't say that the line is damaged strength wise...but definitely looks enough different that I could see that it may not engage a dual line/chain gypsy. I would think that quality line, design in terms of how it's wound and sheer size (the ability of it to modify it's shape to engage gypsy) would definitely determine ease and maybe life of line used in the application.

Also, so many more of these winches have been sold over the last couple decades, I'm sure the manufactures have made incremental increases in performance of them.

As I said I'm interested for when mine dies...as I'm not a die hard for either camp of rode...

 

[Billylll]

My experience with Good started with my Mainship, It was equipped with an all rope windlass. They gave me a good trade in value on this model. They still make the model that came as a factory option on my 1993 Mainship. I wanted better holding so I decided to go with their combination rope/ chain windlass and a 55# anchor. I had them custom make me the rope/ chain rode. I never had a problem with the transition slipping or not properly retrieving the anchor/ rode.
If or when I need to replace the current windlass on my Gulfstar they would be the 1st company I would call for advice and a quote.
I'm a loyal fan and I have no interest in the Good Windlass company.
Bill

 

[jnvoss]

Recommendation for good rope/chain windlass.

 

[FlyWright]

Yep ...it was almost always the line that was the issue...nice winches...but line issues.

No gypsy-equipped winch will perform well if the chain and line are not sized properly for the gypsy. That should be the first order of business when considering winch and rode changes.