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Old 10-11-2013, 11:11 AM   #1
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New teak cap rail idea

This is what I'm thinking about for new cap rail . What is the best way to attac the teak stringers to the hull ? One sugesstion was to thru bolt them thru the hull with 5200 as the adhesive countersink and bung the holes. I plan on using 4200 or something similar under the cap rail . Does this look like a decent cap rail idea? Getting the stringers attached to the hull is my most concern right now . Mine is similar but only has a stringer on the outside . I'm not sure what is under the cap rail now to screw to . Sorry I have tried 3 times to rotate the drawing.
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:21 AM   #2
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Maybe now
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:44 AM   #3
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Good show Pac I was just trying to turn it on my screen but couldn't.

Funny you should mention cap rails as I was thinking hard about mine earlier this morning.

So you're hull top edge is just a 1" end to the topsides? Most boats are like mine in this respect in that the deck comes up and flanges out 90 degrees at the gunwale. And the hull forms a "U" shape about 3" wide. Cap rails are usually bolted there-on.

In your case I'd through bolt the "stringers" together to the top edge. The bolts horizontal. Then screw the cap to the stringers after working the top edge flat enough to receive the cap.

Would be a bit of trouble but the cap could be attached with screws from underneath. Much cap rail grief results from water entering through the bungs and turning the rail black at the fastener. You have the opportunity to avoid that problem. Perhaps a long extended screw bit attachment would help the execution. Ball shaped socket head drivers may work on the inside.

Why would you use a caulk/sealant? Is there something to keep dry there?

Here is a friend's Willard in Alaska. He took off the wood and fiber glassed neatly over the gunwale. Did a nice job. You could use UHMW plastic instead of the wood too. Much easier to do but I don't know if UHMW comes in anything but black.
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:05 PM   #4
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manyboats,
There are some other pics of my exsiting caprail situation on an earlier post in the maintance area. I'm not sure what is exactly there and how the hull to deck/joint is formed . I feel sure this area is foam filled .It might have something bonded between the hull to deck joint to screw to at the top .The deck that I stand on is about 2 foot lower than the caprail area.I'm pretty sure about the width being around 1",that's the main reason I wanted to add the stringer to the inside also .My cap rail is leaking in a few places now ( lot of the stringers are rotted at the end grain,I think they used mahogany) and the water finds it's way somehow to a bulkhead and spils out on the v berth floor. I thought everyone used some kind of cauking under the caprail. Take a look at the other pics if you have time.
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Old 10-11-2013, 03:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manyboats View Post
Good show Pac I was just trying to turn it on my screen but couldn't.

Funny you should mention cap rails as I was thinking hard about mine earlier this morning.

So you're hull top edge is just a 1" end to the topsides? Most boats are like mine in this respect in that the deck comes up and flanges out 90 degrees at the gunwale. And the hull forms a "U" shape about 3" wide. Cap rails are usually bolted there-on.

In your case I'd through bolt the "stringers" together to the top edge. The bolts horizontal. Then screw the cap to the stringers after working the top edge flat enough to receive the cap.

Would be a bit of trouble but the cap could be attached with screws from underneath. Much cap rail grief results from water entering through the bungs and turning the rail black at the fastener. You have the opportunity to avoid that problem. Perhaps a long extended screw bit attachment would help the execution. Ball shaped socket head drivers may work on the inside.

Why would you use a caulk/sealant? Is there something to keep dry there?

Here is a friend's Willard in Alaska. He took off the wood and fiber glassed neatly over the gunwale. Did a nice job. You could use UHMW plastic instead of the wood too. Much easier to do but I don't know if UHMW comes in anything but black.
I like your idea from comming up from the bottom and doing away with the bungs . Do you think the drip groove is worth the effort ?
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Old 10-11-2013, 04:10 PM   #6
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Check your email Pack Mule. I just sent you a few pics of my cap rail job.

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