I could have welded Ĺ inch SS to the leading and trailing edges and kept the balance point at 18% to increase the area, but I wanted a NACA foil section - specifically a 0012 section, with a McLear/Thistle trailing edge.
I have equipment to roll sheet metal in my shop, but the thickest stainless I can roll is 090 - way too thin. I can roll aluminum up to 150 thou but for obvious reasons I'm not making an* aluminum rudder.
So in this place, and at this time the quickest way to a new rudder was epoxy/glass. I have spent very little time on it - the frames for the mold were made on a CNC router with almost no human intervention. Because they were so fair it took no more that 2 hours to build the mold.
45 min for my wife and I to lay up each skin. One hour to glass them together. No fairing was required except on the leading and trailing edges - 4 hours.
The longest job will be welding the 12 by 24 plate to the shaft. Once the shaft and plate are positioned in the rudder shell I'll wet out 1708 and roll it up - like the cardboard tube in a roll of paper towels. These are slid between the plate and the skin and set up in place.
After that the whole rudder gets filled with 20 lb. density 2 part foam. For comparison most foam used in boat construction is 2 lb. density. 20 pound is really hard - you can not dent it without a hammer..
Finally, the upper end plate gets glassed on and the rudder is done.
The new rudder will be equal in size to a DeFever 41, which is almost an identical boat.
Thanks for the kind comments on my work. I'm not sure if I own multiple boats because I like to use them, or just work on them.
Palm Coast FL*