Name Plates

[Egregious]

Hello all, new to the forum.* It looks like there are many knowlegable folks on this board.* Since I will most likely purchase a new to me Monk 36 in the next few weeks I will have many questions since I have never owned a boat like this.* My folks had a 36 Silverton which I used from time to time, and I've chartered Grand Banks and similar*Taiwanese boats*for over 10 years.* I also have owned many smaller boats, so I generally know my way around boats in general.** Now that I've introduced myself, on to the question.


But, once we purchase the Monk we will be renaming her.* The boat currently has wooden (teak?) name plates or port and starboard, and those will need to be replaced.* Where does one get these made?

 

[koliver]

What is a CNC router?

You can get letter templates at Lee Valley tools, or if you have some practice, you can letter freehand. Or use a chisel for fewer mistakes.

Anyone with a paintbrush can paint the name on a board. To do it artistically can be a challenge, so there are sign painters galore in the yellow pages just for that purpose.

When we got our boat it came with a name that we didn't like, so it had to change. The teak name boards had the name painted on them, so they came home for refinishing. A careful hand, an artist's brush and some white paint took care of the repaint, then cover with several coats of varnish, Bob's your uncle!

Choosing the name was much more difficult that painting it on. The name should be unique. That is probably the most difficult criteria, unless you resort to using numbers. It should be meaningful to you, and not convey any other meaning to the uninitiated. When finally selected, wait a couple of weeks before painting it on, in case you have second thoughts.
Good luck!

 

[Tidahapah]

Uncle Bob, cousin to Jack your cross dressing Aunt.
Mike you gotta get out more.

Benn

 

[ARoss]

WIKIPEDIA: Bob's your uncle is a commonly used expression mainly in Britain, Ireland and Commonwealth nations. Typically, someone says it to conclude a set of simple instructions to mean, "and there you have it," or "you're all set." For example, "To make a ham sandwich, just put a piece of ham between two slices of buttered bread, and Bob's your uncle."

 

[Daddyo]

And Fannies your Aunt!

 

[Keith]

I'm going to use this around, and see what happens. Should be interesting! You learn something new every day on this site!

 

[reefdrifter]

Here is a picture of our new name boards we had a sign guy make. We used a good quality velcro to attach them. (I didn't want to drill more holes in my boat)
BTY....I am Bob, though not your Uncle!!!! I do know your Aunt!!!!!!!!....(Not sure if she is Jack or not)* What a suprise!!!!!

 

[Steve]

I purchased a 2003 Monk 36, in November 2008. We are very happy with it, if you have any questions about the boat let me know I'll try to answer them for you, you can email me stwillet@aol.com
On some name boards the name is chisleled or routed into the wood, these you would probably have to replace with new, if the cut is not to deep maybe the wood could be planned down to a new surface but this may cost more than new teak boards. If the name is painted on, like mine was, it can be refinished and the new name painted, routed, or put on with gold leaf. On the transom my boat had the name painted and hailing port in vinyl letters. The painted name I removed with easy off oven cleaner and careful scraper application. The vinyl was removed with a heat gun, again, carefully.
Try Google teak nameboards a bunch of makers will come up, maybe one near you.
Good luck, any questions, let me know

Steve W.

-- Edited by Steve on Wednesday 2nd of June 2010 07:07:43 AM

 

[Keith]

A lot of fairs, craft shows and the like have a router guy that makes name board for houses, farms, etc. in the $20 range. You can take your own teak of course, since they usually don't have that kind of wood. You can find these on the web too.

Another alternative is to just get a piece of 1/8" acrylic or Lexan, and stick some gold letters onto it, then fasten that to the name board spots you have now.

Interlux makes a "gold" paint that looks pretty much like gold leaf once you*paint the inside of routed out letters.

 

[Tidahapah]

WheIn I built my boat I started out with a transom name board but after 12 years got sick of having to remove it and clean and paint behind the board.Always had a build up of fish scales and sludge.
This board also had brass letters that had to be cleaned.

Have now gone to a stick on name and port of registry and couldn't be happier.
I have attached a couple of photos of before and after.
The original is not that clear.
The new one pictured is actually painted on by a sign writer and this was then replaced with the same in a stick on name that so far has lasted a couple of years.

Benn

 

[Egregious]

Thanks everyone.* My nameplates are attached by a couple of screws, and are painted on.* I had assumed they were carved in when I made the OP.* Since I'm only at the stage of finishing the sea trial I just didn't know.* What I think I'll do for the short term is to sand off the old name and take the plates to a sign painter and have them paint on the new name in the font I want.

This is a great forum.* Thanks for all the responses.

 

[FF]

"My nameplates are attached by a couple of screws, and are painted on."

Fine for a state registered boat ,

but I believe the name MUST be painted on the hull if USCG documented .

Size and script style are gov determined.

Had a boat fail "CHAOS" was the name done in Peter Max style script.

Hey,, it was the 60's!

 

[Marin]

FF wrote:but I believe the name MUST be painted on the hull if USCG documented .

Don't know about commercial vessels but this is definitely NOT a requirement for a documented recreational vessel.* You can also use whatever lettering font or style you want as long as it is legible.* There is a minimum size requirement for the name and hailing port, however.

For example all the GBs in the large charter fleet in our marina are documented and all their nameboards are screwed to the vessel, on the flying bridge sides and on the transom, same as our boat which is documented.* The boats have a wide variety of lettering fonts and colors.

The documentation number itself must be affixed to the vessel in such a manner that its removal will be obvious.* Many boaters we know chiseled the numbers into a non-removable structural member.* On our boat a previous owner had the documentation number chiseled deeply into a large teak plank and this plank was then solidly fiberglassed onto the inside of the transom in the lazarette.* Since all the owners of the boat including us had it documented, it has always retained the same documention number.


-- Edited by Marin on Sunday 13th of June 2010 01:55:27 AM

 

[Tidahapah]

In Australia "documented Australian Registered" as opposed to State Registered one has to hjave the official Reg number and name permanently marked into a major structural beam or member of the vessel.
My state registration is in numbers on the side of the hull and the transom for name and port of registry.
The Aus registration number and name are chiseled into a cross beam in the lazzerette.

Benn

 

[Dream Catcher]

When I renamed my GB 42 last year, I went to a hobby shop that sold exotic wood and tools and asked if anyone had a CNC and did custom work.* They pointed me to a retired Navy guy who had a great woodshop in his garage.* After picking a font in MS Word, I gave him the old name boards and he duplicated the teak boards with the new engraved name.* I then went to a paint store and picked up a small quantity of metallic yellow to use on the engraved letters.* Ten coats of varnish later and I had 2 side name boards, a transom board and a home port board for a total cost of $800.

I'm not sure if this way was any less expensive than hiring a sign shop, but it was an easy winter project and I got exactly what I wanted.* The biggest heachace was cutting the reliefs on the back of the transon name board so it would comform to the curved transom.

Dick

 

[Marin]

Dream Catcher wrote:

The biggest heachace was cutting the reliefs on the back of the transon name board so it would comform to the curved transom.

You actually don't have to do that, unless your boards were very thick, which maybe they were to accomdate the machined out letters.* I made new teak nameboards and running light mounts for our GB36 right after we got it as well as new name and hailing port boards for the transom.* We had vinyl lettering and drop shadows put on, however.

But in talking to the shipwright who worked on the large GB charter fleet in our marina about mounting them he said to make sure to use spacers behind them to hold them off the fiberglass.* As far as the curve of the transom, he said don't worry about it, the screws at each end will hold the boards just fine.* He said to make sure to attach (I used a sealant/adhesive) spacers in the middle of the name and hailing port boards for the transom as well as on the mounting screws at the ends.* The spacers in the middle hold the boards off the transom an equal amount all the way through the curve.* It's been twelve years since we made and installed the new nav light/name boards and transom boards and they're holding up just great.

*


-- Edited by Marin on Sunday 13th of June 2010 03:06:16 PM