Morse Cables

[Steve]

Shifting the transmission is quite rough*from the flybridge shifter on Gumbo 2003 equipment. I am*sometimes worried the*mechanism will strip or break, per Murphy,*at the worst moment. From the lower helm the shifting is smooth and effortless*

I*am quite sure this is due to the long and very*twisted path the cables must*take to the lower helm, especially the tight fit*through the "wire chase"*which is jam packed with wires, hoses and*cables. *

I*am wondering it there have been improvements in the materials or design in shifter*cable technology, maybe thinner, more flexible or easier sliding cables. I know electronic shifters are available but would rather stick*a mechanical system*if possible.

Any suggestions as to what can be done to ease the problem The shifter machanisms seem in good shape and are lubed I undestand the cables are not meant to be lubed.

*I haven't thought much about the electrionc system anybody* here using them or have ideas pro or con? Idea of price?

A friend have the electronic version on his boat and said it works well but there is a slight delay hitch takes some getting used to.

Thanks for any comments or suggestions.

Steve W

 

[skipperdude]

There was a fellow on here a while ago talking about using power seat motors from an auto type instillation. I asked for more information but haven't seen the response.

SD

 

[jleonard]

Normally a new cable will make it shift easier again.

I have lubed Morse cables and others have as well. Disconnect at the upper shifter. Using a hose clamp affix a short section of hose over the cable end making a small resevoir.*Fill the hose with*Marvel Mystery oil (or YOUR choice of magical lubricant) and let it seep down the cable for a day or 3.

This has always made a huge difference for me. YMMV

*

 

[chc]

If you attach a small, bicycle type, air pump to the other end of that hose, you can put some pressure on the oil and speed things up a bit.

 

[xfedex]

I had Morse redline cables original equip on 1998 Krogen 42. I replaced them with Mather (now ZF) electric controls. Single lever is very nice.

I could not get the cables to give me predictable input for a given throttle lever movement. Had a couple of boat mechs look at the system and none could make it work. As with most dual stations, the fly bridge cables had to push the throttle and clutch controls on the engine/trans and the controls in the pilot house. To many turns in the cable runs. The Hynautic system was an alternative but electrics seemed simpler. The system is hot wired to the engine battery bank thru a fuse and CB. The rest of the boat is minimalist as far as nav and system gadgets.

I am a retired aviator and did not like the looks of fly-by-wire when I saw it coming down the pike. But this, I like.

 

[jlamb15]

I as well have "stiff" shifters from the flybridge....looked into electronic...hummmmmm.....7500-9000 for upper and lower units. Ill buy some addational lube....

 

[Jay N]

Haven't researched this lately, but several years ago, there was a*new cable designs that featured less resistance/drag and improved ability to turn sharp corners.

Some of them were suitable for Morse control heads.

 

[O C Diver]

Took a look at these at a local waterman trade show recently. I'm in the market for a new set of controls and cables for my current boat. These cables consist of a group of wires with in the outer spiral sheath. At the show they wrapped the cable 3 times in a 12" circle. Pulling the cable back and forth was effortless! The cables have industry standard ends to fit morse style controls.

Cable Craft Control Cables

 

[Tom.B]

My flybridge shifter has a stiffy too. I guess it's kinda good I'm not the only one that has a hard time getting it up to forward. It must be because it's old. Is there a pill?

 

[FF]

Morse cables come in a variety of "sizes". VISIT their web site.

The 33 series is cheap and for shifting outboards.

For an extra couple of bucks the 43 series does far better.

 

[Arctic Traveller]

I had the same problem shifting from the flybridge when I bought our boat six or seven years ago.* I determined the cable was stiff where it bent to attach to the reduction gear.* I was able to get some Kroil (the best penetrating oil on the planet http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ ) into the cable, and have never had a problem since.* If that had not worked, cable replacement would have been the only other option, so with nothing to loose, I'd try lubing the heck out of it first.......................

 

[Codger2]

Arctic Traveller wrote:
I had the same problem shifting from the flybridge when I bought our boat ....... I determined the cable was stiff where it bent to attach to the reduction gear.......... I'd try lubing the heck out of it first.......................

******* I had a similar problem in 2006, lubed the entire cable system and Have not had a problem since.

 

[Steve]

Changing my cables would be an enormous job I'll try lubing them probably in the next couple of weeks, I do have some Kroil and agree it is great stuff I'll post the resulta when it is done.
Steve W

 

[2DASEA]

skipperdude wrote:
There was a fellow on here a while ago talking about using power seat motors from an auto type instillation. I asked for more information but haven't seen the response.

SD

*I Haven't had a chance to get down to the boat to photograph my set up, but as I said It's a simple electric system employing Ford seat motors to actuate shifter and throttle. Simple brackets and armetures with wire run to helm with 2 momentary toggle switches. I have idiot lights for my trans switch to tell if I'm in forward,reverse or neutral. To change rpm's just bump toggle forward or aft. to change gear hold toggle forward or aft until proper *light lights up. The motors which seem robust and should have a long life. In case of a motor failure my controls can be actuated manually in the engine room. *The idea behind this system is to do without running unwieldy cables about the boat. Its a bit unorthedox but effective.