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Old 12-03-2017, 10:18 AM   #1
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Modernizing a trawler

Hi everyone
I am modernizing an old 60í trawler I bought ,just got started on the project , removed the old dry stack exhaust and stack , putting a wet under water exhaust system , gutted the slalom galley , hoping to remove part of the wall between pilot house and salon , here is a few pictures before and after,any ideas ,suggestions would be appreciated
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Old 12-03-2017, 10:46 AM   #2
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Iím just wrapping up a complete retrofit on a krogen 54. How are the other components of the boat, here are a few things Iíd consider before spending any time/money on the looks part.
1. All seacocks accessible and functioning?
2. All below waterline hoses in good condition?
3. State of charging system, battery banks and inverter?
4. What engine/engines are you running? Have you done full tests on them, do they reach rated rpm, etc.
5. Genset in good working order?
6. Hydraulic system in good condition and leak free? Especially steering components.
7. Windows in good condition, any major leaks, etc.

Would love you to keep us updated as Iím just moving onto a galley retrofit as my last project... for this year
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:03 AM   #3
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Iím impressed with people who can tackle such a complicated, long-term project. Look forward to watching the progress!
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:50 AM   #4
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I can tell mattie69 is in the CSR shed. I’m just down the street at shilshole. Where are you at Arthur’s?
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:12 PM   #5
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I’m at CSR as well but no longer on the hard.
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:29 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Arthurc View Post
Iím just wrapping up a complete retrofit on a krogen 54. How are the other components of the boat, here are a few things Iíd consider before spending any time/money on the looks part.
1. All seacocks accessible and functioning?
2. All below waterline hoses in good condition?
3. State of charging system, battery banks and inverter?
4. What engine/engines are you running? Have you done full tests on them, do they reach rated rpm, etc.
5. Genset in good working order?
6. Hydraulic system in good condition and leak free? Especially steering components.
7. Windows in good condition, any major leaks, etc.

Would love you to keep us updated as Iím just moving onto a galley retrofit as my last project... for this year

This is seriously good advice!
All ships systems should be in tip top condition before aesthetics are even contemplated.
I have seen projects crumble after many thousands of dollars were already wasted on all the wrong things.
Don't let it happen to you!
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:58 PM   #7
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Curious why you removed the dry stack? Did it take up too much room on its way up to fresh air? There must have been a sizable box/shaft running up the middle of your boat!
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:34 PM   #8
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The boats at CSR,the 8v92 run well, the steering is stiff, Iíll check the iron filter and if thatís not the issue Iíll put electronic controls on it,the drystack was removed because it ate up so much space in the salon&bridgr and it was shot, going with and underwater system, the teak decks were screwed down around the borders only and glue down thru out the boat so there was dryrot in the side overhangs, the teak decks had been previously removed on the bridge and the rest of the decks are in nice shape on the boat ,the wings are being rebuilt and there is some dryrot repairs on the Bollards , probably going to eliminate the aft Bollards and build and aluminum cap with seating incorporated and a port and starboard transom entrance, I might notch into the transom and aft deck and incorporate 3 steps on each side...anybody know if I can modify and hinge one of these old davits?woukd be nice to get it down lower
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Old 12-03-2017, 02:19 PM   #9
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That’s a heck of a project, looking forward to seeing it come along, been really happy with CSR, the wood worker doing my new interior window trim is doing an awesome job, will end up costing the same amount as the windows but will look brilliant!
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:33 PM   #10
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Hats off to you. Below is completed Phase 1 on my Monk 38. Moving on to Phase 2!:

Exterior
Fabricate and install all new windows, doors and aft door (trim in teak)
Re-fabricate Aft Cockpit wood framing from bilge up
Build cockpit in fiberglass, wood cabinet doors, scuppers and drains
Reinforce Coach roof with latitudinal and longitudinal stringers to stiffen upper deck space
Create more upper deck space - remove crane and chocks
Fabricate & Dry Fit Bimini Top, Side Ladders and Railing around boat deck
Remove Teak Decks and float fiberglass deck
Upgrade Windlass, replace bowsprit, anchor rollers, plumb fresh and salt water wash down
Fabricate samson post in stainless steel, upgrade to new 3/8 BBB anchor chain
Fiberglass cap rail and thread sealed hand rail stanchions bolts (no need to bed)
Fabricate headliner in aft cockpit with lighting and flood lights
Reinforce Swim Platform
Replace all interior lighting with LED (red and white)
Install LED Aft Flood Lights
Install LED Underwater lights (Blue)
Install LED NAV Lights
Interior
Fabricate Headliners and wall veneer
Install new 16 Ton Air conditioner
Install veneer on all walls throughout boat - white
Install veneer on nav station flat surfaces - black
Mill salvaged deck teak and trim out pilot house windows and varnish
Change out all lighting to LED throughout boat
Galley
Resurface galley top and trim in teak
Install new refrigerator, stove, convection oven and microwave oven
Install new Faucets
Install Drinking Water filtration system
Heads
Install new shower sump
2 Electric Toilets with macerators and re-plump to waste tank
Install new Faucets, replace Shower Mixer & Shower Head
Replace mirror and trim in teak
Headliner, wall veneer, teak trim
Resurface tub

Pilothouse
Install Cigarette Lighter & USB charging plugs
Install new VHF Radio
Install new depth finder

Flybridge
Add Terminal Block and Switch Panel
Cigarette Lighter & USB
Install VHF Radio
Inline image 16Install VHF Radio remote
Install and prove LED Nav Lights

Engine Room
4 New AGM Batteries
New Battery Charger System
Replace / upgrade main DC circuit. Inspect wiring and eliminate unused wiring
Install Dedicated 12 Volt Terminal Blocks in engine room and flybridge
Inline image 10Replace and upgrade battery switches (Cole Han)
Rebuild Transmission
Replace Transmission Cooler
New lift pump main engine
New FW Water Pump main engine
Change SW impeller main engine
New Exhaust hose throughout boat
Replace both pilot house and flybridge steering pumps
Upgrade and Install 4 bilge pumps (upgraded from only 1 pump)
New Fresh water pump and install new salt water wash down pump
Anchor locker - fabricate chain / rhode divider in starboard - secure bitter end of chain

Haul out
Bottom Paint - black petite Trinidad
Paint Boot Stripe
Install Zincs
Install 2 stern mounted transducers
Install underwater lights
Install Stern-thruster with dedicated 24 volt battery bank and dedicated charger
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:10 PM   #11
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Some folks have entirely too much free time on their hands...
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:31 PM   #12
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Some folks have entirely too much free time on their hands...
I used to...until we bought an old boat.
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:56 PM   #13
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@Mattie69 - If there is no head on the Flybridge deck, and you like to run at night from the Flybridge rather than the pilothouse, one thought would be to add a sink at about waist height.
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:49 PM   #14
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@Mattie69 - If there is no head on the Flybridge deck, and you like to run at night from the Flybridge rather than the pilothouse, one thought would be to add a sink at about waist height.
One's better half standing a night watch might think that the sink should be at a lower height. Just saying.
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:55 PM   #15
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Very good point @dwhatty

@Mattie69 My dream upgrades beyond the aforementioned punch list are:

* Increase Inverter Size to minimize generator run time (run convection oven)

* Extend Swim Platform and carry the tender on the platform. Launch single handed with a

* Upgrade to Simrad 4G Radar with Forward Scan and side scan

* Sound Proof Engine room with more modern materials

* Fuel transfer system that will provide fuel positive pressure to main engine so that engine does not have to be bled. The secondary 12 volt pump installation also serves as fuel lift pump in case of mechanical fuel lift pump failure. (I have replaced two mechanical lift pumps due to failure, once while underway).

* Engine start switch in engine room on a cord to be able to crank engine and bled injectors while single handing.
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:17 AM   #16
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"the drystack was removed because it ate up so much space in the salon&bridgr and it was shot, going with and underwater system,"

This months Pro Boat Builder has a great article on proper installation l of a wet exhaust.
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