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Old 06-11-2014, 09:56 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by rwidman View Post


It took fifteen posts to come to this pretty obvious recommendation!

Each brand will be different from the others.
Regardless of what the manufacturer states it should do, I'd like to know what it actually will do. Especially after it reportedly failed in use. A one minute run is not a torture test.
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Old 06-11-2014, 11:45 AM   #22
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Chuck has given a popular seminar each year at the Seattle Boat Show on how to handle a single screw boat. We've talked about doing a multi-camera shoot and making an instructional video. It just might become as popular as his seminars.
If you do that, please make sure that you film on a day that has some wind! Most instructional videos that I've seen are in ideal conditions, leaving you confident but actually unprepared for the real thing.

Last year we chartered a single screw 39' houseboat in Ireland. Our training was on a beautiful day, and although I only had I/O experience previously, I felt pretty confident and did well the first day. Even backed into the slip perfectly. Well the next morning the winds were blowing at 18k and I immediately became less confident. I got to meet several other boat owners that morning as I was trying to leave the marina.
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:22 PM   #23
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I got to meet several other boat owners that morning as I was trying to leave the marina.
Yeah.....isn't that great that boating is such a socially stimulating hobby?! 18 knots of wind in a fairway will often bring out even the most stoic of Captains.
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:50 PM   #24
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I ran an old single screw Mainship for 14 years without a thruster. I had a slip with 4 inches total clearance and after a few years never had a problem.
This is what I learned about single screw handling and I hope it helps you....
1) Practise doing some backing and filling using short bursts of power to make the boat move. This will get the boat to turn against the wind most times in a short distance.
2) Oonce I had the ever so slightest feeling I blew the approach...I would turn around and try again from the top. It's rare you can recover (without the help of the neighbors). Usually its a matter of thinking the wind is a "two slip wind" when really its a "three slip wind", meaning that's how far ahead you need to start your turn.
3) The boat only does one thing (ie backs to port). Learn how to use that to your advantage.

Thanks so much. I've been practising all year, but your advice will help me more meticulous.
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Old 06-11-2014, 02:59 PM   #25
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Now that I remember to center the stabilizers, she's as predictable as a peach.

I had a similar lesson involving my trim tabs, early in the ownership of my boat. I couldn't figure out why the boat would drift to one side while backing up. A fortuitously-timed column in a local boating magazine made me realize what had been happening.

So stabilizers will drift out of position when a boat is sitting at the dock?
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Old 06-11-2014, 03:04 PM   #26
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So stabilizers will drift out of position when a boat is sitting at the dock?
Yes, when the hydraulic pump is off (PTO), the pressure bleeds off and they will flop around at the dock.

You can see that both stabilizer fins have relaxed and "flopped" in the photo below of my boat in the slings prior to launch.

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Old 06-11-2014, 03:15 PM   #27
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Do we even know which thruster he has and the size of it?
Perhaps a little more information and we can make suggestions for getting the thruster to be reliable. My VETUS has never cut out and it only has a minor delay between changing directions. It's probably less than a second.
It also has a timer so I only engage the thrusters on button shortly before using it.
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Old 06-11-2014, 03:21 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Boydski View Post
Yes, when the hydraulic pump is off (PTO), the pressure bleeds off and they will flop around at the dock.

You can see that both stabilizer fins have relaxed and "flopped" in the photo below of my boat in the slings prior to launch.


Strictly based on what I see on TV, I believe there are pills today that can help with that.

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Old 06-11-2014, 03:32 PM   #29
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I have a Sidepower thruster just like Ski in NC has with the double on button. I will be putting some grease on the battery terminals and keep an eye on it until I reconfigure my battery situation next winter.
Boydski, does it make you nervous seeing your boat so high up in the air like that? Couldn't the travel lift operator let it down 8 or 10 feet? Looks like pucker time to me.
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Old 06-11-2014, 03:54 PM   #30
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Boydski, does it make you nervous seeing your boat so high up in the air like that? Couldn't the travel lift operator let it down 8 or 10 feet? Looks like pucker time to me.
Actually, the real pucker time came just after they released the boat from the slings. It was fairly windy out and the yard crew lost control of the boat (the bow was just about to crash into the concrete on the left side of the picture). I wasn't supposed to be on the dock, but had to jump in, grab a line and wrap it around a piling to arrest the bow swing.

The boat being so high in the air is not ideal, but the large tides (14'+) often mean it will be a long way up in the air.
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Old 06-11-2014, 05:53 PM   #31
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............. I will be putting some grease on the battery terminals ..............
What do you expect greasing the battery terminals to accomplish?
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Old 06-11-2014, 05:58 PM   #32
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Regardless of what the manufacturer states it should do, I'd like to know what it actually will do. Especially after it reportedly failed in use. A one minute run is not a torture test.
You need to know what the manufacturer states it should do before you can determine if it's operating as expected or there's a problem.
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:02 PM   #33
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I don't know about anyone else but I've been using white lithium grease for years on all my old truck and car battery terminals...never any corrosion or build up. Works like a champ.
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:19 PM   #34
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I use a product called Kopr-Kote. It's a copper-impregnated anti-seize compound that doubles as a very fine dielectric grease for any and all 12v electrical connections. It is near impossible to find in brick and mortar stores but you will find it on EBay. Coat the battery terminals and all connectors and it will be highly unlikely that corrosion will occur. It is also a terrific anti-seize compound. Another use - 12v light sockets.

The manufacturer is a company called Jet Lube (jetlube.com). It is a mil-spec product.
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Old 06-11-2014, 07:39 PM   #35
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I have on my for sale 34 Mainship Mk1 a Vetus bow thruster the larger specified..truly a gift from god. I feed it with an 8D AGM right next to it (overkill, again) shodda used a group 31 starter battery. Smartest thing I did was make the only charging was using a 35 watt solar panel. Tied in the same battery to the wench...or is that winch...either way..she likes it. Never had a problem.
Now what this does for you is short wire run from battery to thruster, no long high amp wire runs with all the negatives that go with that, including safety. The only long wire run is from the panel to the battery, a MUCH SMALLER wire.
I have a heavy hand on the thruster, small rudder, too far forward so I do not use it at all. Just forward and reverse and thruster.
Now on my new boat, hydraulic stern thruster..time to start learning again.
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Old 06-11-2014, 07:39 PM   #36
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I use a product called Kopr-Kote. It's a copper-impregnated anti-seize compound that doubles as a very fine dielectric grease for any and all 12v electrical connections. It is near impossible to find in brick and mortar stores but you will find it on EBay. Coat the battery terminals and all connectors and it will be highly unlikely that corrosion will occur. It is also a terrific anti-seize compound. Another use - 12v light sockets.

The manufacturer is a company called Jet Lube (jetlube.com). It is a mil-spec product.
You should probably research to make sure you are using the proper type of "Kopr-Kote" or whatever brand grease you use. You want a conductive grease on the actual metal connections of an electrical system, Not a dielectric grease. The dielectric would be good for sealing rubber caps/sleeves to prevent moisture/salt from getting to an electrical connection.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:09 PM   #37
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I don't know about anyone else but I've been using white lithium grease for years on all my old truck and car battery terminals...never any corrosion or build up. Works like a champ.
Slathering grease on battery terminals that are already corroded does nothing but make them greasy.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:15 PM   #38
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I use a product called Kopr-Kote. It's a copper-impregnated anti-seize compound that doubles as a very fine dielectric grease for any and all 12v electrical connections. It is near impossible to find in brick and mortar stores but you will find it on EBay. Coat the battery terminals and all connectors and it will be highly unlikely that corrosion will occur. It is also a terrific anti-seize compound. Another use - 12v light sockets.

The manufacturer is a company called Jet Lube (jetlube.com). It is a mil-spec product.
"dielectric" means "does not conduct electricity". I don't think a copper-impregnated anti-seize compound would qualify as "dielectric".
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:18 PM   #39
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Slathering grease on battery terminals that are already corroded does nothing but make them greasy.
One must clean them first...
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:26 PM   #40
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Rwidman - thanks for the correction on the "dielectric". Just know that Kopr-Kote is a very useful product for the purpose I described.
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