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Old 11-15-2015, 09:06 AM   #41
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None of the above.

There is no pump in it, so no need for any power to it.

Put a heavy duty trash bag--two, if you think you need more protection--around it to catch the spill and disconnect the hoses. First, remove the hose from the fitting on the top of it and plug or otherwise seal (duct tape?) the fitting. If you can disconnect the incoming hose--the one that goes into the side of it--at the toilet or y-valve so you have a long enough piece to keep it elevated long enough to plug it, very little should be lost into the trash bag.
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Old 11-15-2015, 11:01 AM   #42
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When I first installed my Electroscan years ago I would have trouble with either the check valve sticking or the float valve allowing overflow. I was usually purchasing the cheapest salt crystals I could find. This salt came out of the bag brownish and there would be dirt in the salt tank which would stick in the check valve and float valve. I switched to Morton Salt Crystals and ever since I have had no problems with those valves. The Morton is pure white and my tank never shows residue. With regular acid cleaning I have had trouble free use for 8 years.
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Old 11-15-2015, 11:26 AM   #43
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None of the above.

There is no pump in it, so no need for any power to it.

Put a heavy duty trash bag--two, if you think you need more protection--around it to catch the spill and disconnect the hoses. First, remove the hose from the fitting on the top of it and plug or otherwise seal (duct tape?) the fitting. If you can disconnect the incoming hose--the one that goes into the side of it--at the toilet or y-valve so you have a long enough piece to keep it elevated long enough to plug it, very little should be lost into the trash bag.
Good plan Peggy. Please look this over and tell me what you think.


Ahead Sanitation Systems: Marine Sanitation Devices, Sanitation Systems, MSD Type II, Holding Tanks, Marine Toilets,

They did not publish prices but to a novice it looks pretty good. Thanks for being here.
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Old 11-15-2015, 01:13 PM   #44
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Thanks Peggie (and others), I did as you suggested and it's now sitting on the dock. After some spraying of the bilge with bathroom cleaner and a lot of hosing, the aux machinery space smells better than it ever did. The length of permeated hoses (replacement about 50 items down the To Do list) is 20% of what it was before. The PO also had mounted the unit on a piece of regular lumber which had been soaking up stuff for years. Boy, did that reek when I carried it up to the dumpster!
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Old 11-15-2015, 02:40 PM   #45
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Roger, buy a gallon of PureAyre--the "household" or "pet" version will work just fine and are available from Amazon for a lot lower price than "marine"--and a pump garden spray jug. After you've thoroughly cleaned all the smelly areas (do NOT use bleach!) and they're at least 90% dry, spray a light coating of it on EVERY surface, nook and cranny. DO NOT RINSE...let it dry for at least 24 hours with all hatches and lockers open, preferably with fans on too. If you still have any odor anywhere you missed a spot. I tripped over PureAyre at a boat show in Seattle about 10 years ago...it's the only thing I've found that will eliminate any odor, even smoke or diesel once the source of the odor is gone.

Mule...I've known Booboo Thibideau for more than 20 years...he used to bring the "AHead" tank to the International Houseboat Show in Louisville KY full of margaritas. My booth was two down from his.

It's a pretty good system, actually, but it's a Type II, which you don't need unless your boat is over 65' LOA....under 66' can use Type I, which are a lot simpler systems and cost a lot less. His toilets are his private label versions of the Sanimarin--a knock-off of the Tecma from a French company with production facilities in Romania. I'm not sure who makes the rest of his product line. Methinks that a novice would be better off sticking with more widely distributed equipment that has more readily available help when you need it.

But as long as you have a link to his website, be sure to click on "links" and then "Booboo's Cajun Cookin'" His pickles and peppers are even better than Famous Dave's hot/sweet pickle chips...everything else is good too!
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:31 PM   #46
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We love our Electrascan used it on the loop in many many areas, now we have changed out to fresh water heads with the salt injection and life is still great just less salt water smells, as they say a good head is important to all onboard 😇
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Old 11-21-2015, 03:28 PM   #47
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This is a help full thread. I am presently trying to resolve an issue with my electro scan unit. It is showing : error: mixer motor overload. The owners manual is not user friendly, in my opinion.

This discussion has provided me with a better understanding of the system and its operation.

Thanks everyone, especially Peggy. I appreciate this information. Any suggestions on what's next will be appreciated.

John
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Old 11-21-2015, 04:29 PM   #48
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I found Raritan's tech support a big help when deciding whether to replace our LectraSan. You might want to give them a call.
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Old 11-21-2015, 05:28 PM   #49
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This is a help full thread. I am presently trying to resolve an issue with my electro scan unit. It is showing : error: mixer motor overload. The owners manual is not user friendly, in my opinion.

This discussion has provided me with a better understanding of the system and its operation.

Thanks everyone, especially Peggy. I appreciate this information. Any suggestions on what's next will be appreciated.

John
Did you find the fault in the manual OK?

Check the problems as directed?
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Old 11-21-2015, 05:31 PM   #50
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Quote:
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This is a help full thread. I am presently trying to resolve an issue with my electro scan unit. It is showing : error: mixer motor overload. The owners manual is not user friendly, in my opinion.



John
That means that the mixer motor is drawing too much current.

either...

Non disolving TP
Some foreign material caught
Need to eat more fiber in your diet
Bad mixer motor
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Old 11-21-2015, 06:19 PM   #51
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Found fault in manual results of following procedures are to replace control. My conclusion is a stuck mixer, have not used system for two + years, nor have I cleaned it. That's my next step. ?
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Old 11-28-2015, 11:02 PM   #52
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Spend money

I have replaced several mixer motors due to corrosion. Each time it required both motors and a tank top. Some of us have bought extended warranties through WM because of the high failure rate. We seem to get about 4 years out of them with salt injection.
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:59 AM   #53
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I have replaced several mixer motors due to corrosion. Each time it required both motors and a tank top. Some of us have bought extended warranties through WM because of the high failure rate. We seem to get about 4 years out of them with salt injection.
I am guessing a whole new tank top because you couldn't separate the motors out? ....and even if one was working the other took the composite use down?
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Old 11-29-2015, 10:12 PM   #54
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Thats correct

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I am guessing a whole new tank top because you couldn't separate the motors out? ....and even if one was working the other took the composite use down?
The aluminum base of the motors corrode so badly they freeze the shaft on the mixer motor.
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:48 AM   #55
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The aluminum base of the motors corrode so badly they freeze the shaft on the mixer motor.
Just wondering....haven't had one apart yet....can you cut the shaft of the motors and still pull them off separately?
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Old 11-30-2015, 03:55 PM   #56
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Usually both need replacing

I think you can replace each , I'll look in the yard , I can't rember, but I have a couple laying around, I'll check.
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