I'm not sure if it's called a stern tube or shaft log but it's the tube that my shaft runs through the Cutlass bearing from the stuffing box. Any ideas on how to get the old Stern tube out to replace it with a new one
No direct experience but years ago RickB posted a fix he did I believe involving 5200. He fished a cable through it and hooked a "bullet"(long disc) just under the size of the hole. Once ready to pull the bullet through he dumped the whole tube of 5200 in the hole and pulled the bullet through effectively sealing it from the inside.
I may be messing that up a bit but you can look up the post and check. Good to have ya back.
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Craig
It's easier to fool people than to convince them that they've been fooled - Mark Twain
Really would have to see your setup...but the standard TT type deep keel on a single engine....some have pressed them out, some cut from the inside of the boat...some from the sides of the keel...anything to relieve some of the pressure/friction and get an grip on it to speak.
Repair is done with another tube or coating the inside with 5200 as RickB reportedly suggested...others have used thickened epoxy and multiple coats.
Are you talking about the short rubber hose between the stuffing box and the cutlass bearing? Or do you have a fiberglass tube I between the cutlass and stuffing box?
Got any pics? Where is the leak? My nagging thought is: Why did this leak start? Is the shaft rubbing the tube, abrading the inside of the tube? Is the alignment off that the engine has settled? Is there an intermediate bearing that is failing? Does the shaft have a whip in it, allowing it to rub? The rubber hose sections do wear out, and get spongy. If it is leaking on the aft side, it could be 'spraying aft, appearing to be leak in the tube.
Fixing the leak is one thing, figuring out why the leak started is probably more important.
If you have an issue, installing a smaller diameter inner sleeve will buy you time. But if this is a rubbing issue, it will rub through quicker. How long is the tube you are talking about? Is it fiberglass? Or is it a couple inches of rubber?
I would love to add a few photographs but I don't know how to upload them on this thing. I'm on the boat what does url mean. Doing this from my iPhone 5
My stuffing box rests up against a bulkhead. Water is weeping out from a crack on the fiberglass of the bulkhead. I just recently installed a new 3208 n.a. The alignment seemed fine every thing bolted right up.
I would love to add a few photographs but I don't know how to upload them on this thing. I'm on the boat what does url mean. Doing this from my iPhone 5
I use the iPhone 5 to access this site too. Do yourself a favor and download the Trawler Forum App. Adding pictures is stupid easy after that, especially if you take them with your iPhone.
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Craig
It's easier to fool people than to convince them that they've been fooled - Mark Twain
On your iPhone 5, look for the blue "App Store" application. Then do a search on "Trawler Boating Forums". Open and install it. You will need your Apple ID and password to do the install.
Skipperdude, on the pics i put up, on the one with number 1, 2 or 3 on it, where is your leak coming from? 1, 2 or 3? If it's from 1, you need a haul out. The previously mentioned caulking 'quicky fix' won't help a tube that is cracked from the back at the hull joint. (at least not for my money) Well, 5200 may buy you some time, but if it's the tube to hull fiberglass joint that is failing then you have a larger job to do to refasten the tube into the hull. Its one thing if the tube it self is worn or cracked.
If it is the tube to hull joint, if you have access to the entire way around the tube you could slap on some more fiberglass and beef the connection up from inside the boat. But getting it to stop leaking to actually put more fiberglass on is the trick. It would involve a dive outside, and sealing the shaft cutlass bearing and any water weep holes with beeswax (toilet bowl sealing ring works well,) and letting the wax get pushed in by seawater pressure. Then using a vacuum to suck up the water, and then acetone to dry up the remaining dampness. Acetone is very explosive. Air out the bilge the entire time with blowers.
You have to understand, the leak is small now. Something is failing. If it completely cracks, and overwhelms the bilge pump (and batteries) the boat will sink. That's about a 2" hole in the hull.
If you didn't align the engine reinstall correctly, it could have whacked the stern tube enough to crack it. Is there a boat repair yard near you? The 'why' it cracked is worrysome to me. If you don't figure out the Why it will likely happen again. And you know it will happen in the winter in AK......
Coppy. It's leaking behind Number one. This boat is set up kind of different I don't have traditional motor mounts my engine is mounted by brackets that hang over the stringers and hard mount directly to that. when checking things out I found that one of the motor mounts the bolt had come loose and the engine was no longer mounted on the aft starboard side. The leak seems to have slowed down a bit. This was originally a commercial fishing boat and has three watertight bulkheads. The water is leaking from a crack in the fiberglass of the bulkhead at the back of the engine compartment about 6 inches above where the stuffing box is mounted to the stern tube. In effect the water is filling the bulkhead and then leaking out.
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If you can't repair it maybe it shouldn't be on the boat