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Old 07-26-2015, 12:43 PM   #21
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SD: If you can get to the crack, you could use Splash-Zone Epoxy. It will bond to wet areas and can be applied under water. I've seen it used and it is all that it is advertised for.

http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare...plash-Zone.pdf
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Old 07-26-2015, 12:49 PM   #22
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I had a stern tube leak.
Didn't discover it untill I observed my aft bulkhead had moved fwd over an inch. That was because the steel in my concrete ballast in the Lazerette corroded enough to expand enough to cause the bulkhead to be pushed fwd. Big problem to say the least.
It was concluded that the FG stern tube failed (probably due to freezing and water) and allowed water into the boat and that seawater penetrated the ballast ect ect.
Removing the ballast w two different sizes of jackhammers was a job from hell to be sure. I only did about 20% of it but that was bad enough.
How the FG stern tube was removed I don't remember. It was done by the yard. Don't think it was that difficult .. just work that boatyard guys know how to do. Putting the new stern tube in involved building a shelf like pocket just ahead of where the stern tube exited the boat (keel) and that shelf was filled w resin called "chalkfast" (as I recall). They used this special resin as it's shrinkage is minimal. That was critical to the installation. Several boat bucks but all went well and has been for about ten years. I replaced the concrete ballast w lead and may be a bit over ballasted now but I also removed a heavy item from the stern.

Skipperdude I suspect that your stern tube is installed much the same as mine except for the ballast (lucky you). So at your haulout a good FG layup guy would be very desirable. I can supply you w knowledge about the people in Bellingham WA that make FG stern tubes should you be in need.
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Old 07-26-2015, 12:59 PM   #23
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This is strictly a DIY job the nearest boatyards at least 70 nautical miles from my location either going to Valdez or around to Seward which puts it in about 200 miles one way to get to and from the boat and my home and I'm not even sure there's anyone there that can do the job. It's also the middle of fishing season silvers are running I've got numerous people coming up for boat rides this summer all of August so I think I'm going to rig an extra bilge pump just to be safe. The boat won't fit on the trailer so I can't call it to Anchorage it won't even fit through the 2 1/2 mile railroad tunnel that it takes to get out of Whittier. Seward.is 114 nautical miles i76 Cordova where most of the fishing fleet is. Is 110 so it's a fix it myself or no boat. Not complaining it's a matter of fact I'd rather do it myself.
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Old 07-26-2015, 01:07 PM   #24
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Larry m. I can't even see the crack in the tube anyway. all I can see is where it leaks out. my boat has three watertight compartments The engine room the fish hold and the fuel lazaret. the Stern tube runs under the fish hold. I'm going to have to remove a large section of a bulkhead just to get to fiberglass that I can glass on to.
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Old 07-26-2015, 01:12 PM   #25
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Thanks many boats. I'm better at fiberglass work than anybody I found when I replace the engine I had to cut away a 4 x 8' hole in the side of the boat just to get the motor out I rebuilt the whole thing myself that all the glasswork. So fiberglass work I know it's just being able to get to it so I can do the glasswork. Wouldn't be so bad but the silvers are in big time this year. I picked up a 20 pound hog yesterday.
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Old 07-26-2015, 03:09 PM   #26
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First you have to get it to stop flowing water. Can you dive on it and plug it with beeswax from the outside? Toilet bowl seals (wax rings) are wonderful tools. Get it dried up.

Then either use thickened resin. Or the mentioned splash zone epoxy. I've used both with excellent results.

You don't need to fill the bilge, Just a round dollop around the shaft to and overlapping the hull material.

You're going to have to figure out how to re fasten the engine though. It will just break again if you don't get to the cause of the problem.
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Old 07-26-2015, 03:40 PM   #27
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I am either missing exactly what the setup is and just what fix is in order....if it is a long tube all the way through the keel like mine...about 9 feet of it...and it is leaking into hollows in the keel....then just what "fix" is wanted?????


My possible leaks and many others with leaky tubes and single engines have resorted to the fixes I have posted earlier....definitely a haulout/major repair.

The pics below are not of my boat but some other kind TFer that emailed the process in pics to me when I had questions. Sorry to the pic taker...but thanks again!!!!

Just fixing water coming through a crack without knowing the origin (like what I am thinking but could be totally wrong)...would not satisfy me.
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:33 PM   #28
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I didn't catch it until a couple posts ago, He seems to want to do a quicky repair, in the water, finish the charter season, then repair it.

SD. I think, using some of the techniques mentioned would buy you the time to actually get to a haul out. If you are thinking of doing this as a permanent fix.... Are your customers lives worth it? Is yours? If this tube completely separates you are looking at a 2" hole in the boat, a couple feet under water. That's a LOT of head pressure to blast water in.

Until (and unless) you actually figure out WHY it cracked (likely the engine replacement and mis alignment) it will likely get worse.
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:37 PM   #29
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Unless it is unreinforced resin...composite usually doesn't catastrophically fail.

It may grow, worsen, etc...but closely monitored should not be a big suprise.
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:57 PM   #30
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Psneeld. Your pictures look similar to what I have. my Stern tube is full of with water all the time. next to the Cutlass bearing are two small ports that allow water in. They look like small scoops on either side of the keel. The shaft extends out to a strut encasing another cutlass assembly then the propeller. The rudder is supported by the skeg extending out from the bottom of the keel.
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Old 07-26-2015, 06:12 PM   #31
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Sorry for your issues...just wish I was there sharing in those hog salmon like I used to on Kodiak.

The pics I sent showed how one guy cut out his tube and got another in. The best would be to slip another in if all the diameters worked.

I can send the rest of the pics...just email me a ps neeld all one word....dot yahoo dot com. And I will send the rest of the photos and anything else I can help with.
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Old 07-26-2015, 06:45 PM   #32
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One thing I am pretty sure of, as mentioned above, you have got to stop the water coming in from outside to fix it from the inside. Happened to me on my Nordic 42 when I had to have a new tube glassed in. There were some old set screws holding the original cutlass bearing in place,,,in hard to reach places.. and neither I or a boat yard employee could get the screw even stated in the water because of pressure. Had to haul the boat, glass up the set screw hole and drill a new one. This fix was in Marathon, FL and it lasted until I got to Deltaville, VA before it gave way and the new tube was put in.
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Old 07-26-2015, 07:12 PM   #33
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Seeing as how the stern tube is sort of a shaft Ally and always full of water and pressurized even more when underway due to the scoops on the side of the keel the only answer is to haul the boat. I hope I don't have to slice into the Keel as pictured in a previous post. I haven't seen the sort of thing on other boats before anyone have any experience with it is it common? Looking at it today the large rubber hose on my stuffing box looks like a balloon full of water.
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:18 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipperdude View Post
? Looking at it today the large rubber hose on my stuffing box looks like a balloon full of water.

That hose is past its expected lifespan. It needs to be replaced ASAP.

Do you understand the concept of temporarily plugging the cutlass bearing and water holes from the outside with wax? (Via a diver) While in the water? So the inside of the tube can dry up (no pressure or flowing water to 'push off' any repair you attempt) The pressure from the water outside will 'push' the wax into and hold it against the cutlass and shaft and onto the small water inlet vents. But since the wax is stiff it won't just fall 'into' the holes. Once you get the area inside dried up you can slather it with your epoxy, resin, fiberglass, whatever. You have to stop the leak for a temporary repair to hold.

The good thing about the wax, It just falls off when you put the engine in gear. You don't have to go back overboard to clear it off. Ordinary toilet bowl wax rings from any hardware store work.
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Old 07-27-2015, 06:44 PM   #35
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Cappy in order to get the boot off I think I need to remove the shaft coupling. I'm not sure if the shaft will slid back far enough to remove and replace the hose. When I first noticed the problem it was some how the stuffing box stoped dripping. It got so hot it boiled and filled the ER with steam. I loosened the gland and was able to make it back to the harbor without the shaft overheating again. That's when I discovered the leak in the bulkhead wall behind the stuffing box. I think I am goig to have to cut away a portion of the bulkhead to determine the nature of the leak. I'm just hesitant to do anything while in the water. If I start cutting away I may wind up with a gusher. Do you think the wax will hold well enough to attempt repair? You said it will fall off. How quickly? Do you think I would have time to get to the travel lift should the need arise?
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Old 07-27-2015, 07:00 PM   #36
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Skipperdude,
Any fairly steep beaches nearby? Let the beach be your tidal grid. Tie up to the beach on the beam. I thought about doing that to change props and avoid the $180 haul fee. The idea makes me a bit nervous though. Would need lines to deadheads or anchors and tied to cleats on the far rail .. perhaps over the house as well.

If the beach is quite flat the boat may heel too much and fill w water. A steeper beach would be less of a problem depending on the difference of your chine and keel heights.

This is not a recomendation and I've not done it but I've seen it done. If you start taking on lots of water it could be an option.
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Old 07-27-2015, 07:07 PM   #37
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I have done it. the only place is about 30 miles out. If I couldn't fix the problem I would be way to far to get any help. It's hard enough gettings things done in whittier. No hardware store no boat yard and no mechanics. Well there is a boatyard of sorts mostly just full of dead boats and a few places to work on your own boat.
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Old 07-27-2015, 07:10 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipperdude View Post
Cappy in order to get the boot off I think I need to remove the shaft coupling. I'm not sure if the shaft will slid back far enough to remove and replace the hose. When I first noticed the problem it was some how the stuffing box stoped dripping. It got so hot it boiled and filled the ER with steam. I loosened the gland and was able to make it back to the harbor without the shaft overheating again. That's when I discovered the leak in the bulkhead wall behind the stuffing box. I think I am goig to have to cut away a portion of the bulkhead to determine the nature of the leak. I'm just hesitant to do anything while in the water. If I start cutting away I may wind up with a gusher. Do you think the wax will hold well enough to attempt repair? You said it will fall off. How quickly? Do you think I would have time to get to the travel lift should the need arise?
I don't think there is a rush to handle the leak from the crack..not too infrequent in older glass boats.

Now the packing gland rubber hose has to last....do you think it will? Can you reinforce it in any way? Even if only with an inch of duct tape around it so it doesn't catastrophically fail?

I would plan to only fiddle with all the other stuff when you can haul. Hate to say it but without knowing what you really have...I would be hesitant to start any "destructive" repair assesments while in the water and just a tide cycle may not be long enough.
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Old 07-27-2015, 07:14 PM   #39
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Leak in a stern tube

SD. The wax is what professional divers use to staunch the flow of water around shafts or in cracks to lessen the flow to DO a better temporary repair inside the hull. The wax is in NO WAY any kind of repair. It is what's done to make the repair easier. The wax is flung off when you start the engine/put it in gear AFTER the repairs are made. This is two separate steps to cut down on the flow of water to even be able to SEE the leak. Regarding the rubber hose. That is something that needs to be done soon. But it's secondary to the shaft tube being cracked, broken or leaking.

Why can't you see directly DOWN into the back of the tube? What's above it? I would be hesitant to cut major athwart ship bulkheads. These are what give the hull rigidity and strength.

Think about it this way: The boat was made to be accessed. Figure out how/where to access it. Without compromising the structural integrity.

Btw, What brand, model, year is it? I can help by digging around on 'net to see if anyone else has done This. What does your boat draw? And how big is the wheel?
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Old 07-27-2015, 07:22 PM   #40
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Yeah I don't know what I really have either. I only know of one diver in the area. He doesn't like to dive in the harbor. Oil and gas in the water started destroying his dry suit.
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