"Kinship" Questions.... - Page 3

High Wire · 04-13-2016, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hawgwash

More questions;
--is that the standard setup on the Monk 36?
--if they equalize, why draw from both?
--if drawing from both how do you know where crud comes from?

I'm normally lined up to draw and return to the port tank. The crosstie is a separate line and valves always open. Never seen more than a 2" (10 gal) difference. As best that I can tell that is the lineup that has always been for 32 years. Racors are staying clean so I'm not messing with what works.

Hawgwash · 04-13-2016, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by High Wire;

I'm normally lined up to draw and return to the port tank.

That's what I would have thought, thanks.

Donsan · 04-13-2016, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BandB

That is our belief and behind our choice. Their biggest problem is spidering of their gel-coats. Perhaps the climate in which they're applied. We even debated painting upon delivery but decided we'd just go with it until problems and then rather than constant repairs, we'd paint it.

Sunseeker is 92% owned by a Chinese conglomerate, which as an aside, Ferretti is also. Princess is 75% owned by a French conglomerate. Fairline is now Russian owned. Sealine has been moved to Germany.

In the "sport boat" type boat, their leading competition is probably Riva.

Like so many builders, Sunseeker is pushing larger and larger and now go up to 155'.

So what is the compelling argument for a European style boat?

Is the AC 60hz?

BandB · 04-13-2016, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Donsan

So what is the compelling argument for a European style boat?

Is the AC 60hz?

Yes, it is 60hz. Actually, while we like the style, it wasn't a key part of the decision. It checked off more things on our list better than any other boat we considered. If it had the style of a Grand Banks (which I might mention, their line has been further reduced), and everything else it has, we would have chosen it.

Don't equate the styling with not being quite utilitarian.

dhays · 04-13-2016, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by High Wire

I'm normally lined up to draw and return to the port tank. The crosstie is a separate line and valves always open. Never seen more than a 2" (10 gal) difference. As best that I can tell that is the lineup that has always been for 32 years. Racors are staying clean so I'm not messing with what works.

On my boat the cross line is the same diameter as the fuel feed and return lines I believe. I was told that they don't tend to work great on this boat as a way to equalize the fuel level without a transfer pump. I have thought that it should be pretty easy to add a filter in the transfer line, as long as I can find a spot for it.

dhays · 04-13-2016, 07:20 PM

Just got home from a couple days on the boat. It was great. I did have one little issue in that the generator didn't start.

We were being relatively profligate with electricity usage due to the novelty. Finally, decided that the batteries should be charged and we wanted to run some more AC. I went to start the genset and nothing. The display would like, but as soon as the starter switch was activated the display died. Appeared to not have enough battery power to start it. Odd as the engine start was fine and the house bank had been fine as well.

The genset started up easily during the seatrial and survey. So, my guess is that I have done something stupid with the switches. I have a charger on the genset battery now to see if after it is charged up it will start. Then I need to start exploring the wiring and figure out how it is all put together so I can identify the problem.

Hawgwash · 04-13-2016, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dhays;

I did have one little issue in that the generator didn't start.

Did you jump it?
Oops, no, I guess not or you wouldn't be waiting to find out.

BandB · 04-13-2016, 07:53 PM

My bet is on the battery.

Rebel112r · 04-13-2016, 08:06 PM

There is that breaker on the dc panel, bottom right, second up from bottom, mine labeled gen set. Normally this is off, unless running gen. Not sure if that would cause a drain on batt if left on. Worth checking.

dhays · 04-13-2016, 08:59 PM

Thanks Rebel. I think it was off, but I got generally confused after a while.

Silly question, but if the genset is running, shouldn't it recharge it's own battery? My guess is that it is charged only by the alternator off the engine. However, even after 6 hours of running the engine today, the battery still wouldn't fire up the generator.

Rebel112r · 04-13-2016, 09:06 PM

No, the genny takes care of itself. It charges its own battery. It is independent of other banks.

BruceK · 04-13-2016, 09:21 PM

Will it start using jumper leads? Sounds like a dead batt.
My genset has a dedicated 25w solar panel with regulator, in case it`s not run for a while.

dhays · 04-13-2016, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BruceK

Will it start using jumper leads? Sounds like a dead batt.
My genset has a dedicated 25w solar panel with regulator, in case it`s not run for a while.

I didn't have any jumpers, but that is the next step. If it won't start after the battery has had a charge tonight, then I will jump with the engine start battery and see if that works.

My guess is that the batteries are original (need to check) which would make them 6 years old.

Art · 04-13-2016, 10:05 PM

Dave

Seeing as it started during survey etc... and would not start when out n' about... and lights went off once starter was tried to be engaged: I'm betten on a connection corrosion/looseness that can't accept/transmit amps needed to get starter a' spinnen!

Best O' Luck!! - Art

dhays · 04-13-2016, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Art

Dave

Seeing as it started during survey etc... and would not start when out n' about... and lights went off once starter was tried to be engaged: I'm betten on a connection corrosion/looseness that can't accept/transmit amps needed to get starter a' spinnen!

Best O' Luck!! - Art

That is a good suggestion. Time to check all connections.

dhays · 04-14-2016, 07:27 PM

OK, the battery was on a small charger for 24 hours. Came down to the boat and tried to start the Genset. All I got was some stutter from the starter solenoid but it didn't start. I jumped it from the engine start battery and it started right up. As soon as I disconnected the jumper, the genset quit.

So my guess is the battery. Second guess would be the alternator on the genset. There is no other charging source for the genset battery.

AGM battery, how do I test it? I am an AGM virgin.

High Wire · 04-14-2016, 08:01 PM

before condeming the gen battery, what is the voltage read directly from the battery posts? Sounds like a loose terminal vs doa batt.

Rebel112r · 04-14-2016, 08:01 PM

Dave. I would take both cables off battery and clean them up, then see if you have any results. If you jumped to the battery terminals and gen started and ran, it is either the connection to the battery or battery. Also take cables off battery, and ck voltage with meter.. If I was closer, I would come and take a look! Was on Vashon over the wkend, but home now.

Rebel112r · 04-14-2016, 08:05 PM

If its the battery, I think a Grp31 would be plenty. When mine goes that is what will replace it with and probably not AGM. Dan

dhays · 04-14-2016, 08:31 PM

Ok. I disconnected the genset battery and disconnected the engine start battery. I then connected the engine start battery to the genset. The genny started up. Before startup, the battery was showing 12.9v with my multimeter. After startup it was showing 13.3v. That says to me that the alternator is working.

Even though the battery terminals looked good, I will reconnect the genset to the genset battery and try it again. If it doesn't run, I will replace the battery tomorrow. It on,y takes an hour to swap the cables given their location. :-(

What am I missing so far?