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Old 08-21-2016, 12:22 PM   #21
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Maybe somewhat apples-to-different-types-of-apples, but one aviation piston engine builder recommends:

".. at least one continuous hour at oil temperatures of 165F to 200F at intervals not to exceed 30 days". This allows any water that may have condensed in the oil to boil/evaporate.

Source: http://www.reiffpreheat.com/Lycoming%20SL180B.pdf
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Old 08-21-2016, 12:38 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by danderer View Post
Maybe somewhat apples-to-different-types-of-apples, but one aviation piston engine builder recommends:

".. at least one continuous hour at oil temperatures of 165F to 200F at intervals not to exceed 30 days". This allows any water that may have condensed in the oil to boil/evaporate.

Source: http://www.reiffpreheat.com/Lycoming%20SL180B.pdf
Just to add...

The goal is correct but almost impossible without to achieve in an unloaded diesel.

To get the boil off in a diesel you have to run it with the prop engaged, tie that stinger tight eh. For a diesel genny, just runs all the ac's.
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:07 PM   #23
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Oil and coolant heaters are a waste of time IMO unless your habbits don't include 10 or 15 minute warmups ... .
Probably the number one reason to have oil pan heaters or block heaters is to keep everything in the engine space dry(including engine internals)and free of condensation and moisture. And for that, they do the job well and are far from worthless!!! Many times there are parts that will rust into pieces before they wear out. So corrosion control is very valuable!!!...not to mention your engine space looking a lot nicer.
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:11 PM   #24
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Does anyone have an opinion on a pre-lube system? Although it won't help your ring/cylinder walls, it'll give you a little help on the bottom end.
Engine Pre Lube System Insta-Lube Kit
I pre lube all my gasoline 4 cycle engines, car, truck, boat by turning over with starter till oil pressure comes up on the gauge. Then I trip the choke by momentarily opening throttle to full... then immediately drop throttle back to idle and start em.

"Simple is as simple does"!
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Old 08-21-2016, 03:08 PM   #25
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Probably the number one reason to have oil pan heaters or block heaters is to keep everything in the engine space dry(including engine internals)and free of condensation and moisture. And for that, they do the job well and are far from worthless!!! Many times there are parts that will rust into pieces before they wear out. So corrosion control is very valuable!!!...not to mention your engine space looking a lot nicer.
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Old 08-21-2016, 04:00 PM   #26
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Above is correct but rather than letting them sit for a very long time every few months or so I always just started them briefly, 30 seconds or so after pressure came up, to get the oil circulating with no attempt to let them warm. This closes some open valves, moves piston rings to a different spot and adds some lubrication.
I run my engines and generator just long enough to check water flow. This is what I have done for years except I do it once a week if possible. It not only moves things around and puts oil on them, it exposes different valves and pistons to the atmosphere down the open exhaust pipe.

The impellers also stop, hopefully, in a new place thus reducing the chance of getting a set on them.

The very worst thing you can do is run your engines for an extended period at the dock...in gear or not.
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Old 08-21-2016, 04:09 PM   #27
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Baker,
Your #23 .... I agree fully.
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Old 08-21-2016, 04:18 PM   #28
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Danderer wrote;
"at least one continuous hour at oil temperatures of 165F to 200F at intervals not to exceed 30 days". This allows any water that may have condensed in the oil to boil/evaporate."

Very good sir I agree. But IMO it can be done in less than an hour. And 180 degree min would be better for a boat. I run 190.
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Old 08-21-2016, 07:34 PM   #29
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I run my engines and generator just long enough to check water flow. This is what I have done for years except I do it once a week if possible. It not only moves things around and puts oil on them, it exposes different valves and pistons to the atmosphere down the open exhaust pipe.

The impellers also stop, hopefully, in a new place thus reducing the chance of getting a set on them.

The very worst thing you can do is run your engines for an extended period at the dock...in gear or not.
Depends if you are running them hard enough to get up to temp in gear.

Broad stroke statements usually have an exception or two......
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Old 08-21-2016, 07:38 PM   #30
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Run all systems for an hour each month. Different rpms for 5minutes or so. Then in gear ,forward and reverse ,then freshwater flush before shutting down. Gen is run with water heater ,and a/ c running then freshwater flush.also. We are at the dock and living aboard so all other systems are getting used everyday.
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Old 08-21-2016, 09:00 PM   #31
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Ideally, I'd run my boat for several hours once a week. Nevertheless, I average once every three weeks (normal run of three to four hours), particularly since there are occasional periods (oversea travel and such) when the boat is idle for three to five weeks.
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Old 08-21-2016, 09:21 PM   #32
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Funny out on the farm the headers run 6 cyl Perkins X 3 they sit around for 12 months to 2 years then have a oil change clean and replace filters then run 24/7 @ at 2200 rpm for weeks on end and run faultlessly after 25 years
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Old 08-21-2016, 09:38 PM   #33
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Funny out on the farm the headers run 6 cyl Perkins X 3 they sit around for 12 months to 2 years then have a oil change clean and replace filters then run 24/7 @ at 2200 rpm for weeks on end and run faultlessly after 25 years

What are you calling a header? Would it be called a combine in North America?
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Old 08-21-2016, 09:44 PM   #34
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Also good to run boat hard on it's last trip for winter storage for boats that do that. Dry oil then for all winter.
I've always changed the oil as part of the winter layup. Thought that was a more or less universal practice.
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Old 08-21-2016, 09:47 PM   #35
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What are you calling a header? Would it be called a combine in North America?

That would be correct a combined harvester in America header must be a Ozzie term . Its a John Deer with Perkins
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Old 08-22-2016, 12:54 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danderer View Post
Maybe somewhat apples-to-different-types-of-apples, but one aviation piston engine builder recommends:
".. at least one continuous hour at oil temperatures of 165F to 200F at intervals not to exceed 30 days". This allows any water that may have condensed in the oil to boil/evaporate.
Source: http://www.reiffpreheat.com/Lycoming%20SL180B.pdf
Quote:
Originally Posted by Art View Post
I pre lube all my gasoline 4 cycle engines, car, truck, boat by turning over with starter till oil pressure comes up on the gauge. Then I trip the choke by momentarily opening throttle to full... then immediately drop throttle back to idle and start em.
"Simple is as simple does"!
Quote:
Originally Posted by seasalt007 View Post
I run my engines and generator just long enough to check water flow. This is what I have done for years except I do it once a week if possible. It not only moves things around and puts oil on them, it exposes different valves and pistons to the atmosphere down the open exhaust pipe.
The impellers also stop, hopefully, in a new place thus reducing the chance of getting a set on them. The very worst thing you can do is run your engines for an extended period at the dock...in gear or not.
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Originally Posted by Nomad Willy View Post
Danderer wrote;
"at least one continuous hour at oil temperatures of 165F to 200F at intervals not to exceed 30 days". This allows any water that may have condensed in the oil to boil/evaporate." Very good sir I agree. But IMO it can be done in less than an hour. And 180 degree min would be better for a boat. I run 190.
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Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
Depends if you are running them hard enough to get up to temp in gear. Broad stroke statements usually have an exception or two......
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Originally Posted by Deckape View Post
Run all systems for an hour each month. Different rpms for 5minutes or so. Then in gear ,forward and reverse ,then freshwater flush before shutting down. Gen is run with water heater ,and a/ c running then freshwater flush.also. We are at the dock and living aboard so all other systems are getting used everyday.
Quote:
Originally Posted by markpierce View Post
Ideally, I'd run my boat for several hours once a week. Nevertheless, I average once every three weeks (normal run of three to four hours), particularly since there are occasional periods (oversea travel and such) when the boat is idle for three to five weeks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gaston View Post
Funny out on the farm the headers (combine harvesters) run 6 cyl Perkins X 3 they sit around for 12 months to 2 years then have a oil change clean and replace filters then run 24/7 @ at 2200 rpm for weeks on end and run faultlessly after 25 years
The above are quotes just from the current thread page. The last one from Gaston probably sums it up best.

This old chestnut comes up with predictable frequency, and you know what..? There are as many different ways folk make themselves feel better about not using their boats for differing periods going round, I really doubt frankly that it makes blind bit of difference what you/we/I do, to be honest. Otherwise there would clearly be a lot of boats with buggered engines out there, because no two people do it quite the same.
Just sayin'

PS. Ok, fair enough...what do I do then..? Just about anything and everything. Sometimes when I go down I do nothing. Sometimes I turn her over to move bits and pieces by cranking without starting for a few seconds. Sometimes I run her for a few minutes just to make sure things that should squirt are squirting, and things that shouldn't aren't. Sometimes I run her under modest load to normal temperature, but not often. She's 40 years old, I've owned her 14 of those, and she's done untold hours, (the meter is broken), yet still starts first plonk every time, and runs like a dingo after a rabbit, so DRAW YOUR OWN CONCLUSIONS.
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Old 08-22-2016, 01:02 AM   #37
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The above are quotes just from the current thread page. This old chestnut comes up with predictable frequency, and you know what..? There are as many different ways folk make themselves feel better about not using their boats for differing periods going round, I really doubt frankly that it makes blind bit of difference what you/we/I do, to be honest. Otherwise there would clearly be a lot of boats with buggered engines out there, because no two people do it quite the same.
Just sayin'
Actually there are a lot of boats out there with buggered engines, although probably far more with other equipment on the boat buggered. I have captain friends/yacht managers who regularly get calls from owners with boats that have sat long periods and have all sorts of problems when they try to run them. The most common issues are batteries, but then all sorts of issues with things like EVC systems, heat exchangers, impellers, hoses, etc.
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Old 08-22-2016, 02:01 AM   #38
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Actually there are a lot of boats out there with buggered engines, although probably far more with other equipment on the boat buggered. ....The most common issues are batteries, but then all sorts of issues with things like EVC systems, heat exchangers, impellers, hoses, etc.
Yes, all engine peripherals, and not helped in any tangible way by running the engine, which would hardly be enough to charge a battery, and sitting still never hurt an impeller. My case rests, y'ronour...
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Old 08-22-2016, 06:02 AM   #39
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One caution , attempting to operate the engine in the slip in gear to raise the load may have you tossed out of the marina.

A prop spinning can move huge amounts of bottom material , into the next slip or into a channel.

Much ungood!
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Old 08-22-2016, 07:12 AM   #40
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I've been watching this thread with interest. We winterize our boat each year by changing oil and all filters, I wash the motor and then give it a WD-40 bath. Finally I flush the raw water side by running a hose into the strainer while running the engine for a minimum of 30 minutes. Finally I use antifreeze to finish everything up and shut it off. It will sit like that from October until April every year and it is very happy.
This engine is a little 3 cylinder Yanmar 40 hp. It still looks and runs like new with about 2000 hours and a very comprehensive maintenance plan.
In a typical season, it never sits for more than a week at a time. When it is being used, we tend to load it and run it!
This year, due to the fact that the boat is on the market, my wife had some major surgery and other "life" issues, the boat sits far more than it ever has. We have used it for a couple of week long trips though and I've been able to keep to the advice printed in the older Yanmar engine manuals.. That is to operate the engine at hull speed for a minimum of one hour a month.

I went looking at the current Yanmar manuals to provide a quote for this thread and skimmed through 3 different engine manuals looking for this advice and they seem to have removed the verbiage. They still talk about revving the engine before shutting it off (the subject of long threads on sailing forums) but there is no longer any mention of how long or how hard the engine should be run for minimal use.

I still like loading it up for an hour personally and I see no harm in continuing to use this as a minimum requirement when the engine isn't winterized.
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