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Old 05-20-2016, 12:47 PM   #41
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I first set the temp high. Then occasionally used the humidity setting but noticed that the water lines would grow more stuff if that was running. So then I just hooked up a small fan to move air around. That seemed to work as well and running the ac or the humidity setting.
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:17 PM   #42
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With 85-90 degree injection temperature from May to September, my old A/Cs still do a good job. However, I do not leave them in operation full time - only when aboard. Yep, pretty warm when you first get aboard. Give the AC 15-20 minutes and it's OK. At 45 minutes, fine.

I can't see wasting the energy and running equipment to avoid the initial discomfort.

As to mold/mildew - I do keep a carpet dryer fan (similar to this: Lasko Pro-Performance High Velocity Pivoting Blower Fan-4905 - The Home Depot) running 24/7, winter and summer. The way my boat is laid out, the fan projects a sensible air stream from the V-berth doorway all the way through the galley and saloon, to the aft cabin. Moving air = mold suppression.
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:35 PM   #43
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Water temperature in Rockport TX in August-89 degrees. Galveston Bay 87 degrees. Cannon Bay, FL 90 in June (it's on the gulf coast). Miami peaks at 86.
yeah, I see what you mean. So there is no relief by having the water cooling the hull.

FWIW, I have used dehumidifiers on my last two boats. It runs full time when at our home dock. I always set it on the galley counter and had it drain into the sink. Sailboaters would get all worried that I wasn't closing the galley sink thru hull when leaving the boat, power boaters don't seem to care. I have yet to put the dehumidifier on the new boat. I will do it it likely in the fall when the humidity starts to rise and the temps start to cool. Doing that keeps the boat bone dry even in our winters.
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:41 PM   #44
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yeah, I see what you mean. So there is no relief by having the water cooling the hull.
Wifey B: Oh but the water is wonderful to bathe in, like a heated spa....
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Old 05-20-2016, 03:02 PM   #45
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yeah, I see what you mean. So there is no relief by having the water cooling the hull.

FWIW, I have used dehumidifiers on my last two boats. It runs full time when at our home dock. I always set it on the galley counter and had it drain into the sink. Sailboaters would get all worried that I wasn't closing the galley sink thru hull when leaving the boat, power boaters don't seem to care. I have yet to put the dehumidifier on the new boat. I will do it it likely in the fall when the humidity starts to rise and the temps start to cool. Doing that keeps the boat bone dry even in our winters.
My brother bumped his sailboat aground on an outgoing tide last year right outside the marina. It dried out on the sand so he put out a kedge and walked ashore. When the water started getting close to lifting the boat he went back to it to find it flooded with water coming up through the head sink. Cost him thousands, new iPad, new fridge, etc. etc. If he had left it another 45 minutes or so he may have not be able to bail it out before the water reached the gunnel.

The big difference is the keel. A sail boat, (unless bilge keel) lies on its side. A powerboat tends to sit on its bottom.
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Old 05-20-2016, 03:50 PM   #46
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My brother bumped his sailboat aground on an outgoing tide last year right outside the marina. It dried out on the sand so he put out a kedge and walked ashore. When the water started getting close to lifting the boat he went back to it to find it flooded with water coming up through the head sink. Cost him thousands, new iPad, new fridge, etc. etc. If he had left it another 45 minutes or so he may have not be able to bail it out before the water reached the gunnel.

The big difference is the keel. A sail boat, (unless bilge keel) lies on its side. A powerboat tends to sit on its bottom.
Like your brother, I doubt that I would have thought about closing the thru-hulls in his situation. What a bummer.
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Old 05-20-2016, 05:40 PM   #47
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I'm in South West Florida very warm 90* +/- canal water plus hard growth in my strainers in four to six weeks if used everyday, (growth looks like tiny mussels). A cheap non programmable home window air conditioner on a mechanical clock timer is what I use. (First power outage and the fancy auto/programable need to be reset by a person.)
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Old 05-24-2016, 08:39 PM   #48
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Shade all exposed to the sun decks that have overhead in cabin or staterooms. If you can draw tarps down to rails to protect bulkheads all the better. Go to fore or aft hatch and install a strong fan blowing out. Go to the opposite end of the boat and open a hatch, a large hatch or 2 Windows. Close all other Windows, hatches, doors and so forth. Suck air in and pull through the boat and blow it out. You should be ok with the attic fan concept.
I used the attic fan concept the pass few days and did notice a difference
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:22 PM   #49
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Would not leave AC units running unatended here in the FL Panhandle. We're on the Gulf Coast Intracoastal Waterway between two passes, and we get inundated with jelly fish at times. Even with an oversize water pump and sea strainer, they can shut down an AC system in a few hours.
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:59 PM   #50
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Quote:
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I'm in South West Florida very warm 90* +/- canal water plus hard growth in my strainers in four to six weeks if used everyday, (growth looks like tiny mussels).
One old timer's trick it to put a few pennies or copper pipes into your sea strainer. Use pre 1981 pennies because they are copper. When the pennies turn pink, replace them.

It will keep those little mussels away and kill anything else in there.

I've never had anything in my sea strainer.
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:20 AM   #51
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Or keep your boat in Maine.


We found doing this worked quite well
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Old 05-25-2016, 09:13 AM   #52
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Roof top air with 1/2" pvc pipe over the side for drain . Kinda tacky but keeps the house cold .
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