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Old 05-19-2016, 09:50 PM   #21
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If it ran 24/7 for 78 degrees then it was either undersized or old and already had issues or had a freon leak or something.

We run ours, set on a moisture control as the mode. Yours may or may not have mode settings. The other option is to program them to come on at intervals.
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:13 PM   #22
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At the very least you have air intakes that go into your ER. Keep the ER hatch open and the air runs through the typically cooler ER then exits out of the hotter Pilothouse.

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He is in Texas.
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:31 PM   #23
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I have this junky old LG 9000 BTU unit that I leave up on the berth or on the galley counter with the exhaust taped to a port-light or window and the drain through a piece of hose to either the galley sink or through a propped up hatch into the bilge. It keeps the boat below 80 on 95 degree days and dehumidifies as well. I usually add a small fan for circulation. I don't trust to leave my boat A/C on when I'm gone, and these things are comparitively cheap so I dont care much if it craps out. It takes 8 amps to run it and I see them at Home Depot up to 12k BTU's. My boat is only 36 but has huge volume on a single level so air is easy to move.
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:32 PM   #24
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How old was the unit? How warm is the water that circulates through the unit? Does the water your boat sits in reach 90 degrees. The unit looses efficiency trying to transfer heat to the already warm water. As the cooling water gets warmer, the compressor runs hotter which leads to compressor failure. Also, most people never bother to clean the cooling coil that the water circulates through. Scale builds up inside this coil reducing heat transfer, which also makes the compressor run hot.

If it's possible, pick a larger btu unit for a replacement. Understand that switching to a larger unit may require larger size wire from the breaker panel to the unit and possibly a larger water pump.

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Old 05-19-2016, 11:01 PM   #25
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LOL. It's an old boat and not well sealed. Leaks around the doors and hatches. I will often leave one cracked in the cabin across from the fan.

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Where does the air come from that replaces the air you draw out?
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:12 PM   #26
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On my little boat I don't run the air conditioner unless I'm aboard. I do have a compact dehumidifier that runs 24/7. It keeps the humidity in the low sixties. No mildew.
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:13 PM   #27
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He is in Texas.
hm... I didn't realize that thermodynamics worked differently in Tx.

Seriously, I am used to water temps being cooler than the air temps in the summer. Cooler water temps generally mean a cooler bilge and ER. Are the water temps high enough that the lower compartments in a boat are warmer?
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:22 PM   #28
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As noted here in the PNW its not a problem, even in summer, its never above 100F, and only rarely in the 90's. Just open a door or window or go cruising, its always 10 degrees cooler on the water. Its our trade off for all the fall and winter rains, mild summers.
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Old 05-20-2016, 01:20 AM   #29
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Water temperature in Rockport TX in August-89 degrees. Galveston Bay 87 degrees. Cannon Bay, FL 90 in June (it's on the gulf coast). Miami peaks at 86.
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Old 05-20-2016, 01:46 AM   #30
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Water temp in the summer in Puget Sound and environs is about 50F degrees!
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Old 05-20-2016, 01:49 AM   #31
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Can I have permission to use that quote!!!!
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Old 05-20-2016, 06:08 AM   #32
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It is far easier to create warm air than cold air.
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:08 AM   #33
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In the 90-100 degree weather, that we have in Louisiana, how or do you try to keep your boat cool while in the marina when no one is aboard. I had the a/c on last summer for 4 months and cooked a unit. I have fans that I leave on but it just moves hot air.
Why do you think you need to bother..? Just do something like Insequent suggested in post 13. I have a slightly smaller solar vent in the for'd cabin hatch, and just leave one small screened bathroom window open, and ok, the boat is a bit warm when you first go in on a summer day, but quickly improved by opening the pilot and cockpit doors and a couple of windows. Our climate in summer is just as hot as yours, and like Brian says, seems crazy leaving power hungry stuff on, to wear out and chew up electricity, when it is serving little purpose. You US guys have just got too soft & too used to mod cons I reckon...
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:22 AM   #34
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Why do you think you need to bother..? Just do something like Insequent suggested in post 13. I have a slightly smaller solar vent in the for'd cabin hatch, and just leave one small screened bathroom window open, and ok, the boat is a bit warm when you first go in on a summer day, but quickly improved by opening the pilot and cockpit doors and a couple of windows. Our climate in summer is just as hot as yours, and like Brian says, seems crazy leaving power hungry stuff on, to wear out and chew up electricity, when it is serving little purpose. You US guys have just got too soft & too used to mod cons I reckon...

The humor (humour) is good...




But sometimes opening doors and windows just makes the whole pace even hotter inside, no cool-down effect... "Quickly improved?" Not.

And sometimes it's gotten hot enough inside so that the glue holding some of the wall coverings onto the bulkheads dries out, wall covering starts curling up, pain in the neck...


That's at least as difficult to avoid as mold...

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Old 05-20-2016, 09:22 AM   #35
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It is very humid here, I run a dehumidifier it keeps it dry, but still hot. I figure if I try to vent out the hot dry air it will be replaced with hot "wet" air and I think the high humidity: mildew, mold, etc is worse than the heat. That or may not be so. I haven't noticed any damage from the heat. I do try to get by there a couple or more times a week to open things up. The flybridge gets hot too the back is open so I'll try putting a solar fan up there to circulate the ir some.
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Old 05-20-2016, 09:31 AM   #36
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....standard aviation term for life limited parts..
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Old 05-20-2016, 09:32 AM   #37
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I keep two of my four units, the salon and one SR set on humidity control. If you are having to replace your unit, I'd buy one with that capability and use it.
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Old 05-20-2016, 10:12 AM   #38
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Maybe a small 110 window unit, easily removed when the boat goes out, or one of those "portable" units that stand in the room recycle cool air and exhaust through a vent or window? A 110v is dirt cheap and the portables are not expensive, I have one for "hurricane season" I might give it a try on the boat.
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Old 05-20-2016, 11:53 AM   #39
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On my little boat I don't run the air conditioner unless I'm aboard. I do have a compact dehumidifier that runs 24/7. It keeps the humidity in the low sixties. No mildew.
We do the same. If the boat is dry to start from running the dehumidifier, it cools very quickly when we get there and turn on the AC.
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:26 PM   #40
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....standard aviation term for life limited parts..
Kindda like standard grocery store term. Best if used by ?/?/???? I have past mine I think. Getting a little stale.
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